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Posts posted by highvoltamps
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If I was doing it over, i should have just built the ducts in the rear panel thats glued to the back of the cab, then they would all have been carpeted together.
Maybe I rip it out and start over
Will look a lot cleaner, you should try to use the back panel webbing to fish the wires close to the terminals. What subs are you going to install?
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double clicked:-)
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I built some ports using 3 inch abs and fiberglass. i made them screw into the ports that I built on the back of the cab and they just went down and then towards the middle of the seat. Then I wrapped them with some dynamat. It helped to reduce the road noise, so right now it's louder then hell.
But i took them out last fall to cover them and they got wrecked before i got around to it. I'll probably get building some new ones here soon, maybe I'll cover them with bedliner... make life easy.
I was just n the gmfullsize site a few days ago and guys where talking about how they blocked the ports off to quiet the noise, I told them 'better learn how to read lips now, in case an airbag goes off...'
I'm kind of a ass sometimes.
Right on, a lot of people don't know that. Along with the pressure cause when the door is closed and heard it messes with the defrost too.
Going to try to incorperate the polished aluminum, making a duct dumping to the sides and line the inside with dynamat and ensolite.
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Use 1500 silverado 4WD with 4 wheel steering. I just went through this with the shop putting on the 325mm, messing up the pads. For the dimensions look up Centric 120.66045 premium rotors.
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No real point in taking pics, everything is pretty much hidden except the back of the cab. The only picture i have of it is without the fresh air vents. I took them out and they got smashed so I have to build new ones.
I just relayed the power feed on the gas pedal off an aux on the starter so if someone steals my truck, I can track it on my phone app and then disconnect the pedal.
I figured it would be better then killing the ignition, they aren't going to get far on idle.
Good stuff man. I have to do something with the back air ducts, looks like you ported them to the sides. What did you use for your ports?
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Thanks for the help guys. I spoke to justin at Hawk and he says the pads are defective and going to cover those pads under warranty. Going to try one more time installing these pads, just strange that the front has the same setup with no problems. Hopefully being installed for months on the wrong rotors messed them up...
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posted mine at photobucket.com/highvoltamps
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Ok, here we go..
This has been an ongoing problem for the past 6 months. How it started, I needed rear brake pads. So I bought the Hawk LTS 385Y.640 pads and Centric premium 120.66041 rotors that a shop bought and put on. Squealed and grinding like it was metal on metal. The shop blame it on the fiction material of the pad and that the rear was high performance and the front was stock. So I replaced the front with the same setup as the rear and the front hasn't squealed once. Took it back to the shop to redo the rear brakes and I noticed the pad was overhanging the rotor, they just sanded it down flat and didn't think nothing of it. This time they put brake quiet on the back of the pads. Still grinding and squealing at low speed stops. So I searched these forums and found that the shop put the wrong rotors on. They were 325mm instead of 330mm, the right rotor is 120.66045. I was done with that shop and did my brake job to the tee by cleaning all components, replacing the brake hardware, sanded with 150 then 320 on the rotors to take off the pad material, did the same with brake pads so it was a smooth surface, locktite brake quiet to the back of the pads, greased all metal to metal contact points and bedded in to Hawks instructions twice. They still squeal at low speeds but no grinding because of the right size rotors. I'm about to give up on these pads, does anyone have any suggestions? One other note, I noticed the inboard pad was worn on an angle, guessing do to the wrong size rotor and sanded it close to flat but Hawk told me it was not nessesary and the pad will wear in to flat. My thinking was the pad should be evenly touching the rotor during bed in. Hawk says no, but I think the pads are beat do to being stressed on the wrong rotors, saw a light crack and rough chips by the edge which I sanded to smooth. Just strange that the front has the same setup and hasn't made any noise.
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Are we supposed to list what we've done?...ok
Dual yellow top optimas with a napa constant duty solenoid to disconnect aux battery.
1/0 Audision battery to battery and into cab
1 gauge Audision upgraded alternator an ground wires
1 fuseholder, 2 distro blocks behind seat
behind rear seat is carpeted with custom ports for fresh air vents
behind the seat 1100 watt orion hcca amp
and alpine 4 channel
2 orion 10's downfiring under seat(just sold them)
and 800 watt inverter
focal k2powers 6.5 separates up front
factory headunit with gm aux in adapter
b-quiet sound deadening from dash to back of cab, 3 layers in doors
parrot bluetooth with display mounted in dash
compustar pro starter/alarm with dual sirens, tilt/motion sensor with drone phone app
aux gas pedal disconnect
rear window mounted pager to arm/disarm alarm
b-pillar mounted leds behind tweeter grills and aux window roll-up
blue led interior swap
hi/low hids
Nice install, would like to see pics
Is the gas petal disconnect an alarm option or did you intergrade?
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Sounds like you will beating down the block, giving your passengers heart murmurs.
I can, but I'm all about sound quailty :-)
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My system in the works..
Pioneer Premier DEH-P980BT head unit
Audio Control 4.1 EQ
350 amp alternator for stereo, inverter and alarm, dual mounting bracket
Custom battery box mounted under the driver side bed holding one Kinetik HC2400
Tripp-Lite PV1000HF 1000W inverter with remote control panel and center console GFCI
#1/0 wiring from the alternator fused at 250 amp to the battery
#1/0 wiring from the alternator with a circuit breaker at 200 amps to the inverter
All undercarriage wiring in sealtight
MB Quart QSD216 components in front stock location
Infintity Kappa 462.7cfp 4x6 plates in rear stock location
Two JLW6V2 subs in custom separate boxes downfiring under the rear seat
Rear seat lifted 2 inches and moved forward 2 1/2 inches and relocated the mounting hooks to allow the seat to fold down
Xtant X1001 1000W class d mono amp fused at 125 amp with #1/0 wiring to a 1.5 farad cap them to amp
Xtant X604 400W 4 channel amp fused at 125 amp with #4 wiring
Xtant P500 five band parametric equalizer
Monster interconnects
Stinger HPM wiring and electrical distribution
Mounted on a custom made polished aluminum amp rack mounted to the rear wall behind the seat
Varad LED lighting
Head unit and EQ mounted on a custom polished aluminum along with the center console control panel
Termostat controlled fans mounted on the amp rack and back of the rear seat
Scytek VG8000 alarm with intergrated high frequency loud speakers
Auto start, window roll up/down, glass break and shock senors, camera viewing driver and remote with monitor
Lots of Dynamat and ensolite
5000K LEDs replaced all incandescents except for markers and front turn signals (could get them to function correctly, even with load resistors)
6000K HID 55W low beam 6000K 35W high beam
PAC SWI-PS steering wheel control interface
PAC C2R-GM24 radio replacement interface
Going to try to motorize the rear seat to fold down
Look for me at an IASCA competition when its done
Pics at photobucket.com/highvoltamps
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Going to be $200 to ship all four and $20 to get the tires off. The wheels are in good condition and will take pictures if your interested. Email me [email protected]Thanks for the reply. I'll have to see if the insurance company will approve it. Do the wheels have any scratches or curb rash? I really don't need the tires if you want to sell them separate. It would probably save on shipping. By the way, can you figure shipping cost per wheel to Clintwood, VA 24228? How are the center caps that you have? Please let me know what shipping would be ASAP so I can call the insurance co. Like I said, you can keep the tires, I won't need them and it will lower shipping costs. Tnanks again, Craig -
Need to find at least 2 silver or 4 chrome in excellent condition. Don't need tires, just wheels. Anyone know of any for sale let me know. Thanks...
I have 4 silver stock wheels with General Grabber UHP on them. Two of the tires have good tread and the other two are worn on the one side. The wheels are in good shape and I'm missing one center cap. Asking $850.
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just picked up my 2006 sss on monday. looking for a cold air intake. let me know!
thanks
Mike
Got a K&N setup for $100. Pulled from my 03 SS and changed to a volant procore w/ ram air. See if the 03 fits your 06. Email me @ [email protected]
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Just got new wheels and tires, then got laided off. Have to sell my stock wheels with General Grabber UHP on them for bills. Two of the tires have good tread and the other two are worn on the one side. The wheels are in good shape and I'm missing one center cap. Will have pics up tomorrow. Asking $1000. I live near Philadelphia PA. Email me @ [email protected]
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Still interested, I'll send u a pic.. I will be pulling my shortly for the system. You know the dealer will need to reprogram to work with the new vehicle.
F/S Stock Ss Rims Silver W/ Tires
in For Sale/ Wanted
Posted · Edited by highvoltamps (see edit history)
Just got new wheels and tires. Looking to sell my stock wheels with 275/55R20 General Grabber UHP. Two of the tires have good tread and the other two are worn on the one side. The wheels are in good shape and missing one center cap. Litlle dings from rocks over the years and some curb rash on the outer edge of one wheel. Can be touched up by a rim shop if it really bothers you. Asking $900. Will remove tires for cheaper shippng for $50 extra. I live near Philadelphia PA. Email me at [email protected]
Pics at photobucket.com/highvoltampsrims