misterp
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Posts posted by misterp
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Does the dash display "REDUCED ENGINE POWER"? 99% of the time, when the truck is in Reduced Power Mode (aka limp home mode) it is because there is a fault detected in:
1) the drive-by-wire throttle body system (throttle body, gas pedal, TAC module, or any wiring in-between)
2) the transmission (too hot, slippage detected, pressure problem detected, etc)
3) a mismatch in some PCM tune settings
4) broken ground wire at the back of the engine block (little black wire by oil sending unit, grounds the PCM - I've done this)
There are other things that can trip REP mode, but those are the biggies.
BUT - since your truck does not display "REDUCED ENGINE POWER" then I am going to guess that the truck has no air cleaner, or a poor air cleaner, and that after removing the headlight something foreign has screwed-up the MAF sensor and it needs cleaning or replacing. Also, check for loose wires at the MAF sensor as well.
Scan the truck and reply back with the actual PCM fault codes and that will pinpoint where the PCM thinks the issue is at.
Mr. P.
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I do not have the part numbers, basically you use the C6 6-piston front calipers, and C6 4-piston rear calipers (from the Z06?) with Baer Eradispeed rotors and custom made adapter brackets. Be careful if you have aftermarket rims, because the front C6 calipers are wide and those pretty red calipers may strike the backside of your rims - one truck has this conversion and Eagle 026's on it, and it required 1/4" wheel spacers because the rims did not have enough backspacing. Also, this conversion will give the truck much more stopping power, but you will still have a spongy pedal (it will be improved) so if you are looking for a rock-hard brake pedal feel you might also consider at the same time installing the hydraboost master cylinder setup.
Mr. P.
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Cool, will definitely try Purple Ice - thanks for the feedback!
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The posted schematic will work, it's how GM wires their fans. You just need to know how to read the diagram. Try this, maybe it will clear things up for you - but all the info you need is already on the original diagram.
Mr. P.
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First connect the relays, do not connect to the PCM yet; with the truck OFF, take the green wire to the PCM and touch it to the negative battery post, the fans should come on low speed, then touch BOTH the green and blue wires to the negative battery post, and the fans should be on high-speed. Once you have passed that "bench test" then go ahead and connect the green & blue wires to the PCM. MAKE SURE both fans are spinning in the same and correct direction.
Mr. P.
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Wow that is funny. Believe it or not, my plastic radiator leaks like a sieve so I top it off about once a week. Shocking, I know. When it starts getting low the temps start to rise but ONLY at idle, and ONLY when my cam has calmed down after a long drive. Funny thing is that I noticed the little gas pedal tap you are talking about will cool it down dramatically in these instances, without the car even moving. So that is the weak pump... I see now. My cooling upgrade list is starting to materialize.
Mr P, can you recommend a certain brand of all aluminum racing radiator? To be honest the Flex-a-Lite units look just fine. (http://www.flex-a-lite.com/auto/html/aluminum_radiator.html).
Has anyone used the Flex-a-Lite radiators on these trucks?? The Flex-a Lite 58000 is looking pretty good about now.
It's not that the factory water pump is "weak", it's that its been designed for the lowest possible drag (to meet Congressional CAFE targets) - so the impeller/vane design inside the pump is substandard at idle. Then again, the original LS-engine designers intended the motor to operate at 210+ so by their judgement, there's nothing at all wrong with the water pump...
I cannot recommend the FAL radiator simply because I haven't seen one first-hand. I can tell you I have seen the FAL fan kit, it's lower than OEM quality. And I have seen the FAL fan control box/harness, it had caught fire. Soooooo I am skeptical of the FAL company's products.
The thing that I look for in a good radiator is the fin design (how are the fins attached/soldered to the tubes?? hint, most aren't!), core design, and how the tanks are mechanically attached to the core itself (paste soldered? TIG? glued? etc). A quality radiator has to be built, at a factory or at your local radiator shop, but either way somebody will have to sit at a bench and weld/solder it and test it etc so whether you choose to fabricate locally or buy aftermarket the price will be just as expensive IMO.
Let me explain what a GOOD radiator & cooling system behaves like: I had a custom radiator made for my 1970 Ram Air Firebird, it was a 36" 4-row copper Modine core (heavier as hell lol!) and the motor was a very warmed-over 441 cu-in Pontiac with a 180* thermostat. When driving that car the temp needle would rise to just over 180, then suddenly plummet to about 165 (because the thermostat allowed the motor to take a fresh gulp of cold water from the radiator) and over the next couple moments warm to 180 again, then suddenly the ECT would drop 10-15 degrees, repeat repeat repeat... In other words, the radiator had waaay more thermal capacity than the motor required during normal cruise. Of course during "extended spirited driving" lol the ECT would stay pretty consistant at 180-ish because the radiator was sized correctly for the heat (aka horsepower) being generated at heavy load.
The hot trick these days is an aluminum core, with 2 "wide" rows of tubes - that design sheds more heat to the atmosphere better than a 4-row high-efficiency copper core of prior generations and is a ton lighter. Then you've got the water pump to deal with... but with a radiator having that much "thermal capacity" the stock water pump may be just fine at idle with such an improved radiator, I dunno. Someday I will get around to finding out, for now in my own truck it's great in the winter time (radiator has plenty of capacity then, I see the ECT 'cycle' up & down) it's just hard-driving in the 100* summer heat that the ECT will run away to 205+. I don't mind the heat, it's the "run away" issue I'm wanting to improve, I might throw a little Cool Ice (water wetter) in the system when I next service the cooling system, that might help a squeak.
Mr. P.
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The main thing I got out of this thread is: UPGRADE THE RADIATOR ITSELF
Radiator upgrades are standard fare for the Lightning guys, with a supercharger and heavy driving a better radiator is commonly needed on those trucks - as I mentioned we have a fabrication acquaintance who makes a good living TIG welding these (Hotrods By George). His comment was, he's surprised the GM trucks don't have as many radiator-size related issues as the Fords, and I tend to agree - I think we lucked-out with the 34" wide core, but it's a poor-performing 34" core....
Another issue causing inadequate cooling at idle - and credit for discoveringh this goes to finallyss, he figured out that the factory water pump circulates coolant just fine at cruising speeds (1800+ RPM) but at idle it moves almost no volume of water at all, so the engine coolant just sits in the block and continue cooking; by taking your right toe and increasing the idle RPM to about 1200 for a couple minutes you will see the engine coolant temperature drop, because the water pump is then able to actually circulate the hot coolant out of the motor to/from the radiator. I suspect this reason is why some guys report better engine idle cooling with aftermarket electric water pumps (vs. the factory pump).
Another factor - oil you use. I switched to Mobil1 5W-40 "Turbo Diesel Formula" (WTF??) because with the blower I wanted an oil that would hold-up to WOT bottom-end heat better, but an unexpected effect was that immediately my running ECT dropped 8-10 degrees, the change was drastic. I don't know how, or why, or wtf... but the change has been unmistakable and significant; since then I have done another oil change and confirmed that was the source of the lower ECT. Go Figure. So guys running exotic oils might see a difference in operating temperatures, before seeing this with my own eyes in May I would have called BS but there you go I learned myself sumthin' new.
Mr. P.
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The reason GM put efans on the 2005+ light trucks was to gain 0.15-mpg to meet tightened Congressional EPA/CAFE mandates. The mechanical fan does pull the most airflow (6000-7000 CFM) but the engine must be turning 1800+ RPM to do so; at idle the EFans (on high speed) will pull far more airflow than the mechanical fan at engine idle.
Reasons to use EFans:
1. Fans are only ON when required (the clutch fan "runs" all the time)
2. At idle, engine and A/C get better improving through better airflow
3. Above 45-mph, the efans are turned off by the PCM (the clutch fan is a big air brake at freeway speeds)
4. In performance applications, 15-hp is freed from the motor and I personally felt this difference between 2500-3500 RPM
5. EFans will outlive the silicone clutch
6. EFans free lots of engine compartment room for other components (ducting, supercharging, turbos, etc)
7. EFans greatly ease engine maintenance, due to extra room freed underhood (essential for competition vehicles)
Reasons to use mechanical Fan:
1. Mechanical fan is most efficient way to deliver maximum airflow at mid-range RPMs
2. If towing very heavy loads up steep grades at speeds at/under 45-MPH, the clutch fan will pull more airflow than efans
3. If towing very heavy loads at/under 30-MPH for any length of time, the efans will not be able to adequately cool the radiator
The radiator is a good subject - the factory radiator is CRAP, it's barely big enough to keep up with cooling requirements in the summer, the tanks are plastic, and it's glued together. One of our fabricator friends took a GM truck radiator and pressurized it with an air compressor and it failed spectacularly at exactly 16-psi (tanks blew off). The Ford Lightning trucks have the exact same design/build quality issues. If you really want your truck to run cool it is necessary to upgrade your radiator to one that has a 2-row aluminum core. A lot of this is also subject to the prevailing outside conditions, my truck never breaks a sweat over 180 between October and March, but in the summer it runs about 195 with the 100-degree Texas heat and high humidity which tax the effectiveness of the radiator (it cannot shed as much heat to the atmosphere under those conditions).
Mr. P.
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so P did you ever get DJM control arms or are you still on the spindles ? if so which ones did you like better. i have 2" lowering spindles i bought over a year ago that i never installed and was wondering what else i was going to need for the install (different shocks or what ever).
Still suffering with the McGaughy's "Deluxe" kit and hating it. I have ridden in several DJM trucks the last 2-years and they ride far better than the drop spindle trucks; in Dan's single-cab with DJM CalMax it rode better than stock, was amazing on that truck. DJM hands-down IMO. I have decided to run the McGaughy's until the steering & suspension needs total overhaul, and will switch it all out then.
Mr. P.
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There is no reason for a supercharged or turbocharged vehicle to get any different mileage than the same N/A motor under cruise/part throttle; my truck has a large Paxton blower and gets stock mileage (except for the blower & injectors & MAP sensor, the engine is still stock). The Radix (positive displacement) blowers do actually improve efficiency, we've always seen MPG go up 1-2 MPG. If you have a forced-induction vehicle and the freeway cruise MPG is worse after the blower/turbo install that is a direct reflection on your PCM tune; if the WOT mileage is worse, well then that's a direct reflection of your "fun factor".
Mr. P.
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To assist the seller -
IF the efan kit has not been installed, I will be happy to extend the original warranty to the buyer - but only if they are truly still new-in-box condition; just PM me for more info. That warranty is 3-years on the fans, 1-year on the shroud, and 90-days on the control box.
I just shipped my last fan kit this morning and will be out of stock on fan kits until at least mid-October - anyone interested in getting a Torrent EFan kit, this is not only a great deal but is the only way you will be able to do so until late fall.
GLWS.
Mr. P.
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"Women are like monkeys; they don't let go of one branch until they have a firm grasp on the next."
A friend told me that and I laughed, but it rings true when it comes to cheats.
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Jesse pm me later I am looking for a set of Mr.P's world famous fans.I will take them off your hands.
Sent from my Droid using Tapatalk
WOO-HOO I'm "world famous" LOL!!!
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If you need a PCM, Gasemall has several extras I know he would be happy to let go for a decent price - PM him.
Mr. P.
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You know my vote!
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does this mod apply only to awd or to 2wd as well im sitting on a 5/7 drop? djm lower and upper control arms and sway bar??
It applies to any truck (or car?) using torsion bar front springs & rubber bump-stops.
Mr. P.
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...keep an eye out for a used radix MP112 for around 2500 and make more power a ton of low end torque and they are the perfect towing mod...
And you'll get improved MPG to boot.
AFA the reliability question - I owned a 2000 Buick Regal with a factory Eaton blower on it making 9-psi boost, and that motor/supercharger had 200K-miles on it and still ran like a raped ape, motor was dead quiet, and it didn't consume a drop of engine oil. I would not hesitate to put a mild supercharger on a 100K engine, provided you do not raise the RPM redline for valvetrain reasons, and the Radix/TVS blowers are the most reliable and trouble-free.
Mr. P.
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Sorry to hear this. And yes like a few others here I can relate - totally. How I bounced-back was to first take care of myself, meaning literally my physical condition (eating and exercising right) and taking care of my personal business (career). Second thing that I did was not necessarily increase my own circle of friends, but add myself to a couple differing circles of friends, and within six months things really turned a corner for me, a turn that after a couple years is still "happening". Don't over-analyze the personal relationship failings yet, until you are kinda back on your feet - there's time to re-evalute your part of that situation later, when you've got your head back on an even keel and can be more objective.
For now, about the cheating ex - there are two SEPARATE issues at play, respect and affection, and these two subjects are totally independent of each other. It is obvious she did not have much affection for you i.e. she wasn't that into you and you are powerless to do anything about that - you cannot make someone love you. But, you DO have a lot of input on whether someone respects you, or looses respect for you. And what you describe is a case where a woman not only didn't have much adoration for you to begin with, but she also did not respect you or herself - if she had, she would have chosen to tell you that she wasn't interested in the relationship anymore rather than live a lie. She wasn't "crazy" but she was definitely a zero for integrity. This is advice from afar as I don't know you personally, but you probably just need some pointers on how to identify people that have poor integrity, and fix any behaviors that may cause others to loose respect and think they can walk all over you. Again that is free advice, I may be reading your situation completely wrong.
80-90% of women that cheat do so because they discover themselves unhappy in the relationship or the direction it is taking their lives, and instead of showing some backbone and leaving with their head high they instead are too afraid to live alone and shop for a replacement relationship to jump into. She's stereotypical. She's weak. She's afraid to be independent. She's common. She wasn't worthy of your feelings. And you're certainly better off without her.
It could be a lot worse. Yes I've had the surprise "I'm moving out tonight" scene, it's crushing, I know the feeling. It took three months for me to mourn the loss of that relationship. But as others said, consider yourself lucky that you weren't married. With kids.
And there is certainly *nothing* wrong with finding someone qualified to help you think out loud, and work things out. None of us know it all, and we each will be overwhelmed at least once in this life.
Mr. P.
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would this work for a non ss truck? I have an 03 Ls silverado lowered 4/6 and i'd like to smooth out the ride.
Yes, it will.
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...with the AWD trucks is it possible to change the power split ratio?...
Nope; that's hard-built into the design of the transfer case, whether that transfer case is AWD or 4x4.
Mr. P.
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...Does not surprise me, he is a terrible driver. I know i have watched all the Mr. Beans lol
... And yes, he is a terrible driver. That poor little blue car got the shaft every time lol
I wouldn't be so sure:
Atkinson ... recently appeared on ... Top Gear, where he recorded the fastest lap time in the program's Star in a Reasonably Priced Car segment...The car struck a tree, a lamppost and caught on fire, authorities said.
Mr. P.
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I've gotten great assistance from Sam Strano - he is a professional autocrosser that also runs a suspension/braking parts business, he can get anything/everything for suspension/braking, knows his stuff, and has driven every kind of brake pad made so can help you choose the correct brand/compound. His pricing is also very competitive. stranoparts.com.
Mr. P.
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Whatever you do make sure those vents still function, they are critical for proper/safe air bag deployment.
Mr. P.
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Thanks, I ended up passing on that blue SS I called you about, then went back a month or so later(last weekend) and drove it again, and something told me not to buy it even though it did seem to run and shift smooth. I just ended up going with my gut feeling and decided against it. I need a to save up more $$ if I decide to get one, and get a cleaner low mile one that used to be loved!
Can't fault you for that! Like I said, they made thousands of these trucks, there's no excuse for sticking yourself with a POS.
Mr. P.
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I don't think it's all that bad, other than the tail lights look way too big for the size of the vehicle they are on.
...and the fact it looks like a total ripoff of the Honda Ridgeline.
Wtb Lunati Voodoo Cam
in For Sale/ Wanted
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WOOO-HOO!