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Pm sent on heads. Thanks!!

I used a rebuild kit from Monster transmission rather than a GM kit, and the parts appears to be of good quality. I also got some feedback from other sources that the kits were good to use. That said, I also switched to the Autotrac II based on a dealer recommendation, but my true reason for asking was to switch to the blue fluid to verify the trans wasn't a contributor. I'm comfortable after watching it over the past few days that it's not a trans problem. I called my friend to verify, and he confirmed all the internal bearings and chain was swapped along with the Merchant pump rub kit. The seal didn't look damaged, but changing to the blue fluid made it easier to verify the source. I guess my only course of action left is to swap on a new yoke to see if the that helps even though I don't see a wear pattern or groove. If it still leaks, I'll swap on a new output seal. My last option will be to pull the T/C again and have him pull it apart for inspection. The stains on my driveway are starting to drive me nuts. Thanks for all the suggestions so far. Kerry

I'm slightly confused and getting somewhat frustrated. I bought my Denali earlier this year, and it was running great with no problems. I was trying to diagnose a vibration/noise after awhile, and the local GMC dealer said it was the T/C and it needed rebuilt. I got the T/C rebuilt by a GM tech friend with all new bearings, seals, and chain. Since that time, I've been trying to figure out why I continue to have a T/C leak. When I reinstalled the T/C, I filled it with just over two quarts of Mobil 1 ATF. The T/C began leaking after the first drive as I could smell the ATF and the leak was present on the underside. I thought I had just overfilled it, so I checked the level daily for two weeks to see how much it dropped off. it finally stopped leaking when I dropped from around 1600mL to around 1125mL as drained from the T/C. I refilled it again with new M1 ATF, and it again started leaking until around 1125mL give or take. The yoke doesn't have a groove or wear marks, and the seal continues to look brand new when checked. It only leaks when driven so could pressure be building up in the T/C pushing ATF out? Any advice on this issue or possible causes? My T/C did not have the weep hole from the pump rub, and I had the kit from Merchant installed to correct. Did this kit change the overall volume to fill the T/C? Thanks, Kerry

1-2K will likely cover just the materials for the job.

Yep, I thought it did, but I'm still learning. It could be in my future though!!

Probably not anymore!!!! LOL

That faulty electric booster is agravating. Any reason I can't unplug it until a replacement comes in? Kerry

Pm sent

It's a Sierra Denali, but it's a close cousin to the SSS. It's actually her truck believe it or not....

I have figured out what is making the sound under the hood. This morning the wife and I were backing out of the driveway and it started at 5mph or less. I quickly popped the hood and jumped out. It stopped, but I had the wife put it in reverse with the brakes on and start turning the wheel like I was backing out. It started again and I was able to pinpoint the origin. It's a black canister with an electrical plug-in on top right beside the brake reservoir with a hose that goes to the back of the intake. It doesn't appear to be part of the Hydroboost system so I'm not sure what it is or what it actually does. Here is a pic if it will let me attach it. Thanks, Kerry

Ok, I had the T/C gone through with new bearings, chain, merchant pump rub fix, and seals. I got it back in the truck, and it issue is still there. Again, it only happens under load and stops when I let off the gas. Does it at low speed and when causing, but its not constant and can't be anticipated. Turning has no effect so I've ruled out wheel bearings. Does a bad front diff howl/growl/whine constantly?? Thanks Kerry

Is the sound constant, or does it have a start and stop numerous times while driving?

If you don't have/know a trusted independent then the dealer is the next best thing. I bought my truck out or state so I used the local GMC dealer. If gave me a good chance to see under the vehicle and get estimates, although inflated, so I had a good idea what needed to be done maintenance wise. It cost me $105 for the inspection. As said before, get the records beforehand. With a VIN, the dealer will print them out for you. Kerry

I just picked up an 06 Sierra Denali with just over 200K on the clock for around the same price. It may be more than some would pay, but it was also a one owner truck that was never wrecked with maint. records. The interior is in better shape than most with half the miles so the previous owner is more important than miles to me. I've done a full service on it, and it drives like a dream. I fully expect to get many more miles out of it, but I still got a pre-purchase inspection from a non-biased party just to be safe. Kerry

Ok, I've done some searching and I've found the following options for NVG/NP 149 hard parts from Monster among other suppliers. Any preferred resellers for these items? - Master rebuild Kit - Overhaul kit (bearings and seals mainly) - Replacement chain - Alum. replacement rear case (if hole is found) - pump rub fix from Merchant Automotive What should I get for the rebuild? Should I get the complete master kit or only replace the bearings and seals that are bad? I'll most likely get a chain since I'm over 100K in the truck for my own sanity... Do the hard part kits come with the new style clip for the pump, or do I have to buy that separately somewhere else? Thanks again, Kerry

I got a quote for $989 to remove/replace and change both bearings and seals. If my rear. Is bad, it will be another $500order to replace it. Is that high? Good deal?? Thanks, Kerry

Ok, it appears my front transfer case bearing is bad. There is a lot of up and down movement that shouldn't be there. The front diff has no slack so I'm comfortable that it's ok. What is the going cost to rebuild the NVG-149 with new bearings and seals? I can do alot myself, but I don't have a press or the specialized tools to rebuild it myself. Thanks, Kerry

Not sure since this is my second vehicle with 4wd/AWD. I don't know how they sound when they fail or start to fail. I just drove it this morning to the store, and it did it twice going and three times coming back over just a few miles. Does a bad diff make this type of on and off sound when the bearing is going out? I drove the truck without the A/C on and it still had the issue. I know the compressor is free-wheeling, but I don't know if that definitely rules it out or not. Thanks, Kerry

I'm chasing an odd sound that I hope someone can help me with that's more familliar with these trucks. It sounds like a compressor or motor kicking on and off. It only lasts around 3-7 seconds each time it's heard, and it isn't constant going on and off when driving. It only happens when under load, speeding up and at cruise on the interstate. Therefore, I can't look for it while idling in the driveway. I have tapped the brakes and it doesn't affect or end the sound/vibration. I can feel it slightly through the gas pedal while also hearing it inside at speed. If I let off the gas pedal it seems to go away, but I've yet to be able to confirm it. I feel confident that it's coming for the engine side and it almost sound like a compressor refilling a tank, though muffled. It doesn't appear to be a PS problem, but I wonder if it could be my A/C compressor coming on and off since it's climate control. It is totally random and doesn't always appear when accelerating or when cruising. Is there anything else on these trucks that would make that sound? Could it be a bearing in the A/c compressor? Thanks for any help. Kerry