jboyss
-
Posts
1,173 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Store
Posts posted by jboyss
-
-
Ill see what i can do for you later on tonight. Its just hard to match the grey.
-
See if AUTOGUY still has pics in his garage - he had my black wheels setup next to his red SS before I bought them from him.
No...They are gone....
But I found these...
Those wheels look freakin awesome on your truck.
-
Looks awesome. Ill make you a sig out of those pics unless you have some others you'd like to send my way.
-
hey guys, i havent posted on here in a long time, but i need some help. over the weekend i came across a killer deal on some black 22's. my problem is, i havent seen any on red trucks and im wondering what it'll look like. so if anyone has got pics of a red sss or regular chev with black wheels, i'd appreciate seeing them, thanks
If you find me some good pics of the wheels i can Photochop them onto your truck for ya. You can probably even find them in chrome and i can make them black. Or ill just change someones black truck to red. Either way ill get you some pics tomorrow.
-
honestly that truck is ruined. layin frame is horrible it serves no purpose. and you just made a typical DUB ride. why try to be something youre not? phat farm gear please thats as old as laying frame
At least you chose the right color.
-
wooo hooo Bout fn time.
-
I had the same problem and i had to put my stock pcm back in for it to tune it.
-
They look good You need to paint the calipers red though. I really wish i went with that set-up instead of the alumasports. I paid a whole lot of money for not alot of performance. I barely noticed the new brakes and ss lines.
-
-
IMO comparing the two Puffers would look better if it was filled because his comes down a bit further and the bottom of the pan looks damn near perfectly straight. I don't see why you guys are saying it's easier to reinstall the rear bumper with BSER's pan. I think it would be just as easy with Puffers pan as well you just have to change the side cladding back to the stock pieces which is held on with double sticky tape and some screws Even if Puffers was filled you could still go back to stock, if you were to do it correctly and glass the backside where you join the pieces together you could take it off as one piece without harming it and reinstall your stock cladding and bumper. You would have to buy new cladding and have it painted if you wanted to change back after filling the BSER pan.
You make a good point there. I still like the way that BSER's is smooth in the back and if you dont know any better it looks filled from behind. I like the price of BSER's obviously. And i also like the fact the BSER is only one peice compared to 3. That being said i still think Puffer did a great job and its good to see someone doing something different.
-
Thanks Ben for all of your help. Ill be sure to check that out tomorrow.
-
I shouldnt have to pull the blower...i can remember we made sure that those two plugs where seated correctly. Dont you remember Kevin?? BTW on a side note, you gonna go to NYC this weekend Kevin?
-
awesome times...im kinda jealous being that i have so much more money into performance mods and ill be happy to pull a 12.93. Good job!
-
You know you will be seeing me there. I am dieing to get a good ol zippy tune. My truck is in bad shape the way it is right now. Where is it gonna be? And what day and time you want me there?
-
What does low input mean? I would expect to be seeing high input as in high KR. But maybe thats not what it means.
-
I was gonna take a hack at making one but you did a good job Big O for just throwing it together. I dont see much more that could be done with those pics.
-
Well i dunno if this will help you guys figure anything out but i keep pulling the same code.
P0332 Knock Sensor 2 Circuit Low Input (Bank 2)
-
Well being that i cant do any WOT runs with my truck i wont be able to run. Im so pissed, im dieing just to have a good running truck i can have fun with.
-
i dont think your time will be much better than the 14.88 if at all. The superchips is a throw away, so all you really have is intake and exhaust.
-
It mainly only does it when i give full throttle. And the truck performs like crap. If i let off a little it will pick back up and then when i get back on it it bogs down again and reads high kr. I only have an interceptor scan gauge at the moment so i can only moniter whats on that.
Full throttle yes, but whether it comes from a dead stop to WOT or cruise to WOT will need to be known to even begin to understand what you're going through - so until you figure that out......
Once you figure that out, go with the high octane and see if it's false or not.
If you have the same interceptor gauge many of us on here have, you can monitor O2s. You just have to change what you're viewing - the directions will tell you how to change it (about 25 choices). You'll need to either look at B1S1 or B2S1.
I am getting the high KR whenever i am at WOT. Whether it be from a dead start or a rolling start or crusing. I can moniter this stuff but i dont know what it should say and do i moniter it while cruising or at WOT? Some things are so hard to tell...like my short trim and my 02 voltage go up and down so much its hard to tell. I dunno what to do i just really hope its not a freakin cracked piston.
-
youll be just fine with the same program.
-
Couple of things -- first it could be false knock. These trucks ALL will read knock with factory settings on the tranny when it kicks down.
Start from idle and give it 50-60% throttle and test for KR. If you see none, try again at 60-70, etc. etc, until you are trying at WOT from idle. If you see no KR during any of these runs, it may just be the standard kick-down knock (which is harmless, but will make your truck perform like crap).
If you do see KR during any of these runs, STOP and get some high octane gas (104) and try the same run again. If you still see KR, reload the magnusson tune until you can get it straightened out imo.
As Krambo and Ben have stated, it may be tip-in knock, or burst knock as well, but neither of these (or the kick down problem from the tranny settings) generally produce such high numbers. 7.9 KR is an "Oh shit" moment with FI.
Can you monitor your narrow band o2s? If you are seeing 7.9KR and anything less than .880mv the tune is screwy and needs to be fixed before you go to boost again.
It mainly only does it when i give full throttle. And the truck performs like crap. If i let off a little it will pick back up and then when i get back on it it bogs down again and reads high kr. I only have an interceptor scan gauge at the moment so i can only moniter whats on that.
Have you scanned to see if you have any misfires along with this KR? I am new to the LQ9, but I ran an L67 with a manudon M90 on it for years. If you have that much KR that isn't false from the tranny issues mentioned and misfires present on certain cylinders, check your plugs, then hope and pray it isn't what happened to me on the L67...cracked piston. At first I noticed it only when kicking it down on the freeway, then starting getting KR at WOT off the line, thought it was false too. I was getting 8+ deg of KR. Then not much longer, BOOM...popped the #3 piston. Happens alot on the L67 with boost (I was running about 12psi). Not trying to scare you and could be totally off, but check for misfires nonetheless.i really really hope you are wrong. Id be f'ed if i blew a piston.
-
Sounds like tip-in KR, from what I know of it.
Does it happen all the time or does it just happen occassionally?
Was thinking that as well (burst knock as well). Zippy, chime in here! Do you have a stall converter in there? I had terrible KR issues on kickdown and a strait flash stall. If I pulled it into a lower gear manually and floored it, the KR was minimal and cleared up quickly. If I power braked before launch, NO KR.
I know you have a FP gauge, what is your FP on a WOT run over 5K RPMs. I know the 04's have a more difficult time holding peak FP at your power levels than the 03's. You may be running into a fuel starved motor.
FWIW, I still get a little bit of KR from time to time. My tune is aggressive and any little change (varying gas, hot temps / cold temps etc.) wil show a bit of KR that clears up quickly. The worse I see now is 1-2*.
I first noticed it happening when i floored it on the highway and i wasnt going as fast as i should have been. Kind of felt bogged down. And this is new it didnt happen a couple days ago on the same tune. So i reconnected my scan gauge to test for kr. And now whenever i floor it basically i can feel it and it will read 7.9 kr. The fuel pressure seems to be solid when i floor it, at about 60. Sometimes it will dip a tiny bit lower to maybe 58. The stall isnt installed yet, but it is tuned for one. Could that be my issue here??
-
First I am going to look up what PE mode is. Second, are you telling me that this is all a tuning issue perhaps? If thats the case then I am really surprised about the pcmforless tune I recieved. The last tune he did on my truck was great, granted it was radix-less. I know that a in perosn tune is the best route but if this is the "noraml" mail order radix tune then I might as well lef the truck stock.
DeLorean DMC-12
in Off-Topic/General
Posted
pfffft i wouldnt buy that ugly POS. I love the movies and all but that car sucks. They couldnt even get a hot model for it.