fordsareslow

Are those the ones in your profile? Good Years? <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Those were 275/45's goodyear GT II's now I've got Toyo Proxes ST's

I've got 295/45's out back and 275/45's in the front. My truck is lowered 3/6 though so I don't know how much help pics. will be, but I'll post some up later tonight.

When I was running them that low the truck was squirly at half track till the lights, felt like driving on ice, yet there was a lightning there that same day running the same tire at 13 psi as well so maybe it has something to do with the way me truck is lowered or ??? BTW: Very nice runs

fronts 235/75/16 rears 28/11.50/15 et streets going to try a set of 26/11.5/15 if i can get my hands on them <{POST_SNAPBACK}> What tire pressure are you running on the rear? I have the same size et's but on a 16" wheel and I still can't get traction.

What size/kind of tires were you running? ET streets???

Very nice runs

Well thank you Zippy for all the great tunes

Glad you like it, I'm glad it's going to be put to good use

Are you talking RWHP??? I say Cam, Radix w/ smaller pulley, LT headers

I believe that when GM switched to drum breaks in the rear, they made the front disks bigger.

I'm running a 160* for a LS2. My truck runs at 180* all the time.

Well I figured out my buget and I have enough to do a few extra things. I'll probably be pulling the motor next week to start a few "upgrades". At the same time, I am going to install the 2.9 pulley, TOG headers, and Zippy shift kit and TB converter. I already have all those parts plus I have about $3,500 to spend. A few questions, I want to stick with the 5.3 block and heads and keep the cam somewhat mild as I still want to be able to smog the truck in a few years. I will probably go ahead and change the pistons and lower the compression a little, maybe 8.5:1 or so, and I will also be using all new ARP bolts/studs. Does anyone know if the number ARP-234-4317 or ARP-234-4316 is the right number for the head studs? I have read that the 4317 is the correct one but I want to make sure. Also when you guys built your motor do you know if the block was honed with deck plates? I know it gives a more accurate measure but my friend(former boss) dosn't have any for the LS based engines. All the labor is free, I just have to pay for the new parts. He gets a good deal with comp so I'll probably go with a custom grind cam and the 918 springs. How much HP are the stock connecting rods supposed to handle? I will be using the ARP-234-6301 rod bolts which will help, but will the rods last? I would rather do things right the first time then have to pull the motor again down the road to fix something else. Sorry for the long posts and all the questions, but after what BenKey and others have said and some reading that I've done, I'd rather just do it right the first time. I'm hoping to be in the 11's when I'm all done

Only 8lbs. I'm running the 3.3 pulley.

Well if I pull the heads off, I would def. change the cam, but then I might as well change the pistons and change the compression a little to be able to add more boost Then I might as well put all ARP bolts through out the motor and then I might as well just put a LQ9 in it and then... It'll be the "snowball effect"

I talked to a guy I know that builds engines for a living and his thinking is that since I changed the thermostat when I installed the radix and the truck runs at 180* now compared to ~205* stock that possibly this difference in temp under boost could case the head to try to lift up a little causing the leak? He said because being that it is an aluminum head, the gasket is compressed for the heat of running at the ~205* and now that is is running 25* cooler that there may be a difference of 0.001" between the two for the compression of the gasket. (I hope this makes sence, kind of hard to explain in writing with out making it 2 pages long ) It makes sence to me but has anyone ever heard of this? He suggested that I check the torque on all the bolts (while the motor is cold) to make sure. I believe the head bolts are one time use only though, would I be able to tighten some of them if the need it or would I have to get a new bolt? Also what is the correct torque for them? Thanks in advance.

The wierd thing about it was I had just looked under my hood two days prior and I know it was not like that. It was dark last night when I noticed it so I couldn't get a really good look. I'm going to take a closer look today and see if I can tell if it is running down from somewhere or if it is coming fromthe head for sure.

Third try, 0.500 ;) Sorry stupid photobucket resized it...

Was looking under my hood tonight and found this stuff. It is on the front driverside of the motor right where the head meets the block. It is only located at the #1 cylinder. Is this norma corrosion? Could I be in trouble? Oil is clean and free of water, and truck is running fine, what are your expert opinions??? Could it be the head gasket starting to go???

Tell me about it. 117* + Radix =

Here's one more, this was today when I was driving home from work a little after 5 pm. Truck said 111 when I first got in and then once driving got all the way up to what it shows below... Yes that does say 117

This was at 5:10 pm when I was leaving work today... And this was just a few minutes ago (12:20 am )

let me talk it over with mama... might be fun...! <{POST_SNAPBACK}> So what did mama say???

Talk to Frank at Revolution Race Works Great guy to deal with Plus he is one of the Sites Preferred Vendors