paulguy

Before you just start throwing parts at it(just like a stealership), why don't you do some testing? Do you have a test light or meter? Did you check all the fuses? Or just the brake ones?

There's not alot of room under a crew cab seat, i only put shallow subs in there. Way more room behind the seat and you can make it sound better imo.

Thanks for the info.

Sorry to hijack... Just have a couple questions Don't you need a nav dvd to use these factory units? Is there an extra drive for the nav dvd? Most of the ones I've seen don't come with. and Do you need to install the gps antenna harness too? Thanks

K....interesting. Well that answers that. Cool. You can't put it where the second battery goes on the pass side either? Damn. Under the seat is valuable sub space that really hurts your sound not having the whole space to use. Just make sure you get a good sealed battery like an optima and then you can mount it on it's side so you'll have the room under the seat.

You'll need a gmrc-01 for a harness and a swi-x for steering wheel controls if it doesn't have a remote input. I got to ask, why would you put the battery under the seat?

The heater should still flow coolant through it. Could be a bad temp door actuator and not changing over to hot setting. Apparently the control modules go bad and need to be replaced to,

Just take the seat out, unclip the bottom cover and peel it back, and you'll see the burnt wire. I used a but connector to re-connect the wire. My seat element also had a few burnt spots in it, I cut out the burnt spots with some scissors. just be careful not to cut the wires which run in the sides of the element.

I love it when people write articles for everyone everywhere. It's forecast this week for -40's and that's without the windchill. You know what happens when you get in a car without warming it up when it's that cold? The windows freeze up almost instantly, worse if you've just showered. Very dangerous. I don't care whether you use synthetic or conventional oil, it is just like glue at those temperatures, it's not flowing anywhere. Plugging in is a great idea to help warm up, what about at work? the mall? What if you have a diesel? Up north in the 'patch', we only shut the diesel engines off to check oil, they have to run 24/7, or they won't start. I think pre-heaters and other methods are good ideas to warm up cars and help save the environment, some big trucks have them, but that's it. I'm sure the environmentalists will eventually persuade manufactures to make them standard equipment one day, but we may all be driving electric cars by then. I guess it's a good thing that we have the largest oil reserves in the world here...we're gonna need it. Maybe I'm so against not idling because I install remote starters... but they're necessary here, especially If you don't want to worry about your car getting stolen, cause sometimes you have to let it run.

I wonder if i guy can fix a water sensor.... how the hell does that work anyway? I guess i'll wait till the tank is dry again and crawl under it and try to pull the sensor out.

Can Anyone tell me if our trucks have a low washer fluid sensor? I seem to remember having one but it doesn't work now. I just got caught in some slushy winter hiway driving and I ran out of juice. If we have one, anybody fix there's? Thanks

No problem

Sweet, I'm glad you figured it out... and I feel pretty good about myself for guessing the problem. I use pretty much only metra harnesses(gmos-04) and haven't had to change very many, maybe one or two. Can't comment on the other ones. What kind of adapter do you have in there?

It's probably a bad tweeter. Pull the a-pillars off, connect the pass side one to the drivers side plug, it should work. The tweeter is wiring in parallel with the door speaker, so if the door speaker works, the output on the amp should be ok. Most audio shops sometimes forget to give all the customers old gear back, I usually have some factory tweeters in my tool box, if that's the problem. You can probably get a shop to give you one.

Wow, that's a new one to me, and I've literally done hundreds of starters in these trucks. The problem is probably with the interface module screwing up the databus. That's my guess anyway. If you want my advice, have them fix it, hopefully they'll go through the install and make sure everything is good. The install is really easy and hard to screw up, instead of just throwing parts at it. If it still doesn't work right make them take it out and give you your money back right there immediately.

You need a mount kit like a metra 99-2003, the harness which you said gmos-04, and a antenna adapter metra part# 40-gm10. And you want to use the swix-ps, it plugs into the pioneer deck which makes life easy. the swi-x is an older universal swi that has an ir you have to mount and it's alot more work

To check the interface adapter, check the draw, then pull the deck out and unplug the deck from the interface harness, check the draw. then unplug the interface from the truck harness, check draw. That should give you an idea of what everything is pulling. You should only lose 1 or 2ma pulling out the deck, they don't draw much juice. thats why you said when you pulled the radio fuse you lost 50ma so that's why I 'm betting on the adapter. Ya a better multimeter will be accurate within 1ma. It'll have amps and millamps, and autoranging is nice too, that way there's no guessing. When I do current draw tests at work, I make them leave the vehicle for a day or two just cause I like to leave them sit just to make sure they go to sleep. I've seen some vehicles take 30min.

So you need a gmrc-01 then.

You should really be testing with a meter that goes down to single millamps, try to borrow one. So you said your truck was sitting a 90ma with everything hooked up? Ya that'll kill a battery in a day or two. Should be less than 30-40ma with everything hooked up. What kind or alarm? What do you have for stereo gear? Did you make sure the bcm went to sleep to record any readings? A common culprit is the deck interface adapter, sometimes they can draw alot of power. I would pull the deck and check that first. I alway latch the drivers door latch closed so that i don't wake up the bcm everytime i get in to check draw.

You just need a mount kit, antenna adapter, and a interface like a gmos-04 if it has bose, or a gmrc-01 if it doesn't have bose.

A standard rule of thumb in car audio is to run a bigger amp then what your speakers are rated for so that your not running distorted signal from the amp. But you need to know the driver resistance of you subs...2ohm, 4ohm, svc, dvc, etc. to properly choose an amp.

I add amps to factory bose systems every week since they came out, should work fine. Did you run the lines from the factory sub to speaker level inputs in the amp? Did you run two sets of speaker wires, one for each coil? Did yo hook up the polarity right on the speaker wires? Sounds like you have a short to ground.

On old cars and weird stuff that someone doesn't want an antenna installed, I put in a metra 44-ua20 universal window antenna, it's amplified so It works pretty good. I just stick them to the underside of the dash.

I never thought about the whole 'my dealer says it's the car start issue'. That would work pretty handy for that. The last shop I worked at, If the dealer mentioned anything about the starter, I'd make the installers completely remove it, and tell the customer to go back to the dealer, just so we wouldn't get blamed. The installers probably hated me for that. In my truck, I first put a viper in when i got it, and the old vipers had a plug inline on the main harness, so I can unplug mine. That's nice for upgrading.

I was looking into replacing mine, the part # I have is 88940288. I just fixed the broken connection for now, works ok.