paulguy

If your fronts are running off the bose amp i'd say you have issues with your deck.

How many amps? is just the subs amped? Are the other speakers factory bose?

No problem. It should work. If not check avic411.com Sorry about the hijacking. Sent from my GT-I9000M using Tapatalk

It stands for hi-pass filter. It lets you set the roll off freq and cutoff slope to cut the bass for the speakers. If it has one turn it on. Sent from my GT-I9000M using Tapatalk

The plug can fit in backwards. Flip them around and try again. Sent from my GT-I9000M using Tapatalk

Those plugs on the back are for panasonic adapters like bluetooth, ipod, etc. But since panasonic stopped making car audio a couple years ago, you'll never get parts for it. Doesn't that deck have a hp filter? Take the speakers out and check for overheated voice coils or broken surround.

You should be able to do the 2-wire bypass on the z2 http://www.sminntech.com/z1flash.html Hope that helps

Take it from someone who's worked on these truck day after day. Here's the skinny on installing a headunit and bypassing bose without an interface.... Don't do it! Installers won't install a headunit in a class 2 data vehicle without a data retention module for a reason, we're told never to do it. Bcm communication problems will happen and there has always a chance something else could go wrong. There has always been a urban legend about a car without a radio data module having a tech 2 plugged in and having the airbags go off. I don't know if that's true. But Gm service doc 558208 lists procedures for disabling airbags for removing a radio. The chimes come from the Data Link Controller either in the factory radio or a data retention module(gmos-04). If you replace the headunit without an interface, you will lose all chimes...period. Then no notifications for door open, low fuel, memory seat settings, turn signal on, or any other dic warnings. There is no reason to bypass bose unless your putting in a front end amp(s). If you going to run aftermarket amps to your system with a factory deck, then you don't need a data integration module and there is adapters out there to give you aux outs to your amp, otherwise your chimes can get pretty loud. If your just doing a deck, bose through an interface will still sound better then aftermarket speakers though deck power. Also hooking up a headunit to 1 ohm Bose speakers can be really hard on the deck, I don't recommend it. Why would you anyway? You can get a hold of a gmos 04 for like $50-60 on fleebay. Most have navagtion wiring which can save you the trouble of going behind the cluster and to the bcm for vss, ebrake, reverse. It's can be cheaper then the steering wheel interface, which you still need anyways. And a tip... if your doing a full system and bypassing bose with an interface, either use a PAC OS-2C-Bose or C2R-GM24 which has an external chime module, a gmrc-01 which has a speaker for chimes(just don't hook up speaker wires), or if your using a gmos-04, tag onto one of the front speaker wires(easiest is in the drivers or pass kick) and mount one of the bose speakers that you took out under the dash. That way you don't lose your chimes. Hope that helps if anyone was wondering

12 gauge is the size of wire, you need heavy wire to send the power to the subs. The speaker wires coming out of the amp look small. They should be atleast 12 gauge, doesn't matter the brand, just the size matters.

Maybe you should relax a little. I did offer you advice. I was just giving you a hard time and if you don't want to get criticized then don't post up pics on a public forum.. But your right, it was mean...I apologize.

Loading up a sub is hard to explain. Bass sound waves are very long, thats why it's hard to get bass out off a truck cab...too small. Kinda like in a car, if you mount the subs facing backwards, it's usually louder.

The amp looks grounded to the cap and then to the chassis, it should grounded directly to the truck. The speaker wires should be atleast 12 gauge. Maybe someone needs to start a 'Fail' or 'Getto' thread.

OK, I see how they are getting a little extra airspace, the box sticks out in front of the box...yuck. I got kids and my subs would be smashed in the first day. A downfiring box is alot easier to build then that 'in front of the seat box'. That box has alot of angles which suck to do and thats also more seems to fail. The most efficient box design is square, so the downfiring should sound better, even though it's smaller. And the subs can load up on the floor. I cut some wood yesterday, but i can't find my box specs, I have a notepad that I write all my specs in. So I guess I'm starting from scratch. Crap. I do some more day and take picks.

Wow, you don't drive it with that box there and that was just for the picture I'm sure. You need a box, and a better ground on the amp, and better speaker wires. I wouldn't have put the amp on the hump, not alot of room to cool when the seats down.

Do you have any info on this 2.84ft box? Cuz I call bs. Pretty tough to get that kind of air space under the back seat. Under the seat is about 8.5 " high, and about 58" long. you can go back about 16" if you stretch it and the back is only about 7" high. The box should be built with 3/4" MDF. So take off 1.5" of the dimensions, then minus bracing, minus the hump, minus driver volume. Ya, your lucky to get 2ft of airspace. Prefab boxes alot of the time use thinner wood(I've seen 1/4") so they could get more volume that way. But thats also why prefab boxes sound like...prefab boxes. But I could be wrong...it happened once. Do yourself a favor, take that notion of a ported box and through it out the window, it's just not feasible in these trucks, unless you take out the back seat. Ported boxes require room, and pretty tough to get away from port noise when the port is so close to your head. I've built a hundred boxes for these trucks, done one ported box and it wasn't worth it. I'll never do another one. IMO, If you want descent sounding bass, put two downfiring 10's or 12's under the seat. I started building another box for my truck this week, and I'll do a how-to. If your interested in something like that, it might help. You don't have to drill into the back of the cab. Silicone some wood behind there to the back wall and mount the amps to it. There isn't anywhere else to put them.

That's sounds like what I need. What size do you think those mufflers are? And no x-pipe?

So a few years ago, I put a car starter on my exhaust guy's car. My system was stock, so he put a flo-pro muffler on the SSS. I'm not sure which muffler it is it's about 22". It's not one off the 'HD' series, I don't think those where out yet. The exhaust sounded really good but it had some drone(2000-2500rpm), he gave me a like a flowmaster heat shield to put on it, helped a bit. But the mufflere was free, so I lived with it. Then just recently I had a plugged cat so I gutted them. It's a bit louder, but the drone is way worse, like deafening on the highway (maybe I'm just too old). So my question is... do i need to replace the cats to get rid of the drone? I don't care how loud the truck is on the outside, but i want it quiet inside. And if I do replace the cats, does a hi-flo cat do anything for sound suppression, or shouldn't I bother. I'm gonna get a tune sooner or later so cats or no cats doesn't matter. It does seem to be a little better on gas since the cat gut. I don't have a lot of funds, so I can't just put a corsa or something on it, too broke. What about like a flo-pro 2503 or 2504 or something? Anyone had experience with a no cat combination?

No worries. Sounds like a good system, I'm not a huge fan of the stealth boxs, don't get me wrong they sound good, but they're pricey. Whats a box for our trucks worth in the us? I've installed them here and I think we where charging about $1200 cnd(about $1150 us). 5 channel amps are cool, unless you want to upgrade. That's probably why they're not as popular as putting in two or more amps. Myself i didn't amp my rears, left them bose, and I run a big amp to my fronts (focal). And if anybody's interested there's a cool backup camera tailgate bezel you can get for our trucks at places like cubbycam.com that look pretty nice.

No Problem. They make one without a cd drive? Cool

Boy I'm so glad I took all that time to reply to your 'I want an upgraded gm radio' thread. You didn't even bother to respond. Pretty rude. Maybe I'm wasting my time trying to give advice to someone. Well anyway, I hope you'll find what your looking for. Good luck putting in a 'gm screen radio' without a 'cd slot'.

I changed my lights to blue leds, steering wheel button too. It's a bit of work but looks really cool If you have any question, lmk.

Our gmt800 trucks run a class II data radio, GM radios didn't come with bluetooth till the gmt900 truck which run a lan system, so radios aren't switchable between platforms(not that i know of anyway). So no factory bluetooth option. You can add xm to your existing deck, but you need an interface module and a xm tuner, or a factory xm module and a sharkfin antenna. There's lots of writeups of guys switching to factory nav, so if you search you will find a how-to. But it's alot of work(change amp, change wiring, add modules, etc). It's cheaper to add aftermarket and alot easier. I can't see you doing a factory nav for under $1200, by the time you get a deck, amp, nav antenna module, navigation discs, and xm module. And if you want touchscreen(of course), that would probably cost well over $2000. All for an outdated system. For that much money you can have aftermarket touchscreen deck that's way better than factory. You just need a radio data interface and a steering wheel interface(about $100 on flee-bay). You can get a Avic-x920bt for $800, and that does bluetooth, usb, ipod, nav, cd, dvd, and micro sd. $70 for a xm tuner and install. And you can even do a back up camera too if you want. Also the Avix-x710bt is more factory looking(still has a knob) and a smaller screen, more like factory nav. Just won't play dvds. Still sounds better the factory anyway, imo. But yes they do say pioneer on them. Maybe you could just sharpie over the logo or something? Hope that helps

I've dynamatted my truck, front to back. all the doors. Still loud inside. I have to change mufflers.

Sweet It'll take me that long to save up enough gas money to go there anyway. Honestly I phoned a guy here that does truck wrecking, and he quoted me something crazy like $2200 Cnd for a steering axle and $1400 Cnd for a straight axle. I said, no thanks. I could build my d60 bombproof for that kind of money.

I need a set, gonna ditch the d60/14bolt setup.