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shadowsniper3006

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Posts posted by shadowsniper3006

  1. i like the idea :thumbsup: the bump in compression will help a lot and your ptv clearence will be more tolerable than if you were to mill your factory castings.

    There will be less ptv with the 799 heads. Valve size being equal

     

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  2. Obx is 1.75 primary with 2.5 collector.

    Pacesetter is 1.75 primary with 3 collector

    Arh can have 1.75 or 1.875 primary with 3 collector.

     

    I'm not saying either of us don't want larger headers for our trucks at this point, but I'm running 504 at the wheels through the obx and my buddy joe is running 545 at the wheels from his ls7 through the obx. And they're bolt on stainless headers for less then what $500. They seem to work out well.

     

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  3. Thanks this was what i was trying to get out of my possible misworded/ opitionated questions.... itl drive like a ctv transmission under normal driving conditions

     

    Where u live at im WI id like to make a trip up some weekend and see what you got goin on

     

    just north of milwaukee. We're lucky enough to have multiple RWD dyno's in the area, but we also have 2 AWD dynos large enough for our trucks as well.

  4. i started with a quarter mile goal. if not that then you need a hp goal. What other reason is there to mod? If you say you want a fast street truck...you have to define "fast" in either 1/4 mile, 0-60 or HP. pick something and go for it. if its a show truck with tons of hp never used....then i don't get it.

     

    I'm thinking 12's is not the goal you want. Nothing about my truck bothers me, but you have to live with things if you want to hit a hard goal. Live with the stall speed and learn to drive it, live with the city MPG, its all effects of the goal you want.

     

    i think i paid close to a grand for my circle d, are you guys looking at single disks......

     

    i should try to get a vid of my truck just driving around, maybe its me just knowing this is what i needed to hit my goals, but its not bad. I'm driving a 4500.....and it ain't bad. Yeah, under normal driving my trans acts like a cvt, the motor will stay at 3000 and shift through all the gears and never drop rpm...but it doesn't effect the driveablitly of the truck.

     

    you guys gotta make it out here for some racing and dyno runs and i'll show you first hand a high stall isn't bad, once your used to it

  5. Right now I'm on a circle d band wagon. Chris was awesome to talk to, even answered emails on a sunday. When I told him I was going to try to break his converter...he literary said...bring it. I had bad luck with pi hitting their stall speed, but it held up to my power at that time. My tcs out of Canada was a god awful violent converter that pulled incredible 60 foot times....it ment business but sent its guts through my trans and cooler, scrapping the cooler and doing $800 damage to the trans. Their customer service kinda sucked. Back when I started yank had a lot of problems, which is why you don't see a lot of the older guys running them, but I can't speak for now of from personal experience

     

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  6. I got lucky. You know what they say, sometimes even a blind squirrel finds a nut

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    even a broken clock is right twice a day.... just kidding bro, no question in my mind you know your shit

    That's funny right there!!!!!

     

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  7. Ahh, you said a few guys. I thought I was the only one to date and didn't want to be mistaken about it. Mine was slightly larger duration but less lift.

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    Listen to this cat boys, dude will get you to your goals. But it wont be a bolt on and go deal, running quick n/a in these trucks is tough and takes time

    I got lucky. You know what they say, sometimes even a blind squirrel finds a nut

     

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  8. Who? What platform truck?

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk 2you.....page 2-3 in link unless I misunderstood you the cam you had at that point is slightly smaller than mine currently and at that point you had p/p factory heads....correct?http://www.silveradoss.com/forums/topic/82263-cammed-the-ss/page-2

    Ahh, you said a few guys. I thought I was the only one to date and didn't want to be mistaken about it. Mine was slightly larger duration but less lift.

     

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  9. Your still gonna need more to be in the 12's. maybe go with so diff heads. Your prob gonna be a low 13 with what u described.

    ive read a few guys get high 12s with close to same build but have slightly smaller cam than what i got...dont get me wrong im not guna be mad if i dont hits 12s this isnt being built for strictly track purpose...it ment to be a fun DD that will hold its own

    Who? What platform truck?

     

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  10. Im curious what TEA charges for something like that. I I have pair of bare 799's sitting here and already have my springs. I was going to bolt them on and go but i cant justify it without porting them. What sort of port/ head job would you be recommending. I already have a 3600 stall and 224/228 .581/.591@ 112+4 going in along with a TBSS intake setup. My cam is a little closer just a tad less lift. You ever weigh your truck ?

    They used to call it stage 3 porting. 5130 with me in it, but that was before the forged rims and smaller/lighter tires.

     

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  11. Brad you were running the same cam setup I have? I'm prob going to do a set of ported n polished 243 heads soon. What else would you recommend?

    My cam was 224/228 .610/.588 113+4. So although it shares the intake duration nothing else is the same. 243 is a nice head to use, like was said earlier don't be afraid of the typically cheaper 799. Once ported they are equal, unless you want the hollow valves which can be added anyway. My home computer isn't hooked up anymore and my lap top took a crap so I can't figure out compression like I would like to, but I would try to maintain the 64/65 cc chamber after porting and use a thinner gasket for what tea recommends for quench height. My opinion is to use a roller tip rocker not the upgraded stock rockers. I prefer yella terra although I think their customer service sucks should you need it. There's a bunch of arguments for and against changing from the stock rockers, I personally don't buy the arguments for them, but its my opinion vs theirs. I also choose to upgrade the lifters for something made to handle rpm and spring pressure. I chose the cts-vr lifters at first but then went to morel. Zippy says he uses the ls7 most of the time, hard to argue with him. I also prefer less lifter preload, like about .015-.020. Again, arguments for more and less are out there, and both make sense, I prefer the less route. Other then that, up your stall, but I know its your dd....but a 3600 really isn't anything to fear. But city mpg will go down. I think I get 6 in the city, but still 13 on the highway in lock up.

     

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  12. That's a very incorrect statement. When you need rpm you need a stable valve train. Light valves can help with spring pressures, valve bounce, and valve float. Mine are turned down hollow ls3 valves to help my motor run 7300 rpm with kinda minimal piston to valve, .080

    Although afr is my second choice, I don't think they will beat a trick flow head.

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    I haven't seen that. Every article has AFR and TFS roughly the same. With the exception of one article and the TFS heads were HEAVILY worked over, ie not what your going to get if you are joe blow.

    It's been my experience in the Performance boat world, that AFR is easier to get a hold of as well. My 35 fountain lightening has twin Merc racing 540 bulldogs with AFR heads and whipple quad rotor superchargers. Each motor makes 1040 hp at 4.5#s of boost. Boat runs in the 130s.

    My research has shown me otherwise. Pay attention to the flow numbers/or hp but compare the valve sizes used on each head and or the test bore size, and runner size used to compare the two

     

    Although the boat is cool, its hardly a awd 5100 pound truck with a ls based motor in it. If you want a run of mill trick flow head you can call up summit or jegs right now. If you want to go through tea and get a tfs head with custom valves or better springs or decked a little, then it will take a while longer. I chose to wait

     

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  13. if your going threw changing valves and spending the money then it doesnt matter what your buying either 243 or 799. Im with shadowsniper and TFS heads are tits second would be AFR's but still theyre a lot of dough. shadow which heads were you running when you were goin 12.7's on the 224??

    12.8s, tea stage 2.5 317s decked to 68cc. Hard to beat their porting...on any ls head. By the way, check the tea address and the trick flow address....

     

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  14. the difference in the hollow stem valves doesnt mean squat when modding and the valvespings would go bye bye anyway soo....? does it matter?

    That's a very incorrect statement. When you need rpm you need a stable valve train. Light valves can help with spring pressures, valve bounce, and valve float. Mine are turned down hollow ls3 valves to help my motor run 7300 rpm with kinda minimal piston to valve, .080

     

    Although afr is my second choice, I don't think they will beat a trick flow head.

     

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  15. what is your cam spec? Or what you consider a big cam (.i.e. 223/227 .637/.641 @112lsa) ??

    Me?

     

    I'm using a 235/240 .650/.610 111 cam, which ive learned is almost stupid and pointless. Going from a 224 cam with ported stock heads and a stock truck intake and like 6700 shift points with a 3800 stall, to $2800 trick flow heads with a victor intake and 102mm nw throttle body and a 4500 converter with 7200 shift points got me from 12.8s to 12.4s. I mean I'm it to go fast, but if that .4 isn't that important to you....run the torquer setup, it's more fun and is easier on the truck and wallet

     

     

     

    The lift on that cam is big in my view but the duration is very reasonable for converter and shift points. Was it spec'd out for stock heads?

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