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rwoodards

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Posts posted by rwoodards

  3. Wtb: Sss Transfer Case

    in For Sale/ Wanted

    Posted

    never herd of that before the gears are hard now 52rc I tested them well the shafts anyways but the other t-case from the esca im gona get laid are hard as glass

     

    the t-case isn't the week link the 4l65e is the week link and diffs

    Yeah thats what I figured, the only weak links I have heard of are the trans and front diff. I havent really heard of any upgrades for the front diff. Thats kinda off whats stopping me from going lsx, I just feel that motor would be better off in one of my other vehicles. Thoughts?

  4. Gixxer Down

    in Off-Topic/General

    Posted

    havent made it to the track yet...i wanna sooo bad..not enuff time nor money...damn government..im close to draggin a knee.....my bike will out do a 1000 in the twisties...all day n night....lighter and more agile

    Dude it is totally on the rider, 1000 and 600 are within 40lbs of each other, that is nothing. Im pretty fast but I'm not gonna sit here and tell you I will take everyone. Ive done alot of trackdays and been to the gap/.dragon at least 7 times. If you go be careful and ride your own ride. :cheers:

  6. Gixxer Down

    in Off-Topic/General

    Posted

    my kawi has had a couple cuz of recals...they did one on the valve cover and the cams but mine is good now...i dont care how fast u guys can go ina straight line...can u hang with me thru the twisties is the question

     

    FTP BITCHES

     

    05/06 Gsxr-1000 is king even with the recall :P

    Suzuki baby, Bring it!!! :cheers:

    post-6969-1237262593_thumb.jpg

    post-6969-1237262715_thumb.jpg

  8. Wtb: Sss Transfer Case

    in For Sale/ Wanted

    Posted

    I got a rebuilt from www.drivetrain.com for a little over $1,000. They charge a core, but you get it back. Came with a 12month unlimited miles warranty. I had an issue with the first one they sent me, pulled it, shipped it, they sent me another unit right away before I even had to pull the bad one. Had this one for 15k+ miles with no issues. I recommend if you have the coin. You can get a new one from a dealership with a 2yr warranty for about $1500-1600.

    Thanks for the info

     

     

    I would buy a new one for $1500 before a rebuilt as I have had the nv149 apart and its not worth paying for a rebuild unless they put a new viscous coupling in it $550

    as the rest is not much there

    Have you ever heard of anyone having the gears hardened and undercut. Is it something that could/should be done to the transfer case. Would it improve anything. The only way I would do a rebuild is if I can make an improvement. But I figure if the viscous coupling is the weak link than the rest probably doesnt matter, havent heard of many failures.

  9. What Kind Of Synthetic Oil To Get?

    in General SS

    Posted · Edited by rwoodards (see edit history)

    :withstupid: really enjoy Royal Purples products.

     

    infact, I'd take a shower in Royal Purple, if it wasn't so spendy :eek:

     

    Not to start an oil war, but I used to be a big Royal Purple guy untill I read some third party tests that showed more metal particles following use of Royal Purple.

    http://www.performanceoilnews.com/oils_against_oils.shtml

    I think Royal purple is goodjust not as good as Mobil 1

     

     

    Remeber all Synthetics are not created equal.

     

    "In the late 1990s, Castrol started selling an oil made from Group III base oil and called it SynTec Full Synthetic. Mobil sued Castrol, asserting that this oil was not synthetic, but simply a highly refined petroleum oil, and therefore it was false advertising to call it synthetic. In 1999, Mobil lost their lawsuit. It was decided that the word "synthetic" was a marketing term and referred to properties, not to production methods or ingredients. Castrol continues to make SynTec out of Group III base oils, that is highly purified mineral oil with most all of the cockroach bits removed.

     

    Shortly after Mobil lost their lawsuit, most oil companies started reformulating their synthetic oils to use Group III base stocks instead of PAOs or diester stocks as their primary component. Most of the "synthetic oil" you can buy today is actually mostly made of this highly-distilled and purified dino-juice called Group III oil. Group III base oils cost about half as much as the synthetics. By using a blend of mostly Group III oils and a smaller amount of "true" synthetics, the oil companies can produce a product that has nearly the same properties as the "true" synthetics, and nearly the same cost as the Group III oil. The much more expensive traditional synthetics are now available in their pure forms only in more expensive and harder to obtain oils. To the best of my knowledge, Delvac-1, AMSOil, Redline, and Motul 5100 are the only oils made from pure traditional synthetics."

     

     

     

    http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Oils1.html

     

     

    Mobil 1 Here

  11. Wtb: Sss Transfer Case

    in For Sale/ Wanted

    Posted

    whats wrong with your current one ?

    I'm pretty sure that I burned up the viscous coupler/dampner. I have been having a progressively louder vibration and rattling during acceleration. I drained the fluid and there was less than 12oz in there. The rear output shaft seems very loose.

     

    I have a 06 Escalade AWD one that's for a 4l80e

     

    You just have all the stuff I need: brakes, trnasmission, transfer case. Damn

  16. Please Help! Klanking/rattling Noise

    in AWD, Differential, & Transmission Tech

    Posted · Edited by rwoodards (see edit history)

    :uhoh:

    So, I put the truck back on the lift on Friday. Following MR. P's how to, I purchased fluid for the front diff(Mobil 1 75w-90 GL5) and transfer case (Auto Trak II), as well as fluids for an oil change. I entered this experience with the notion that either I was going to have to replace/rebuild the diff or the transfer case.

     

    Well I started off with the transfer case. Remembering that the "How to" section called for about 2qts, I pulled the drain plug and much to my suprise, out came less than 12 oz of fluid. :puke: I new instantly that there was no chance that this thing was just gonna need fluid. Not much metal came out with the entire 12 - oz of fluid so I figured I better use my extra 1qt to flush the case cuz I knew it had to be packed with shavings. Not much came out so I stuck a magnet in the drain hole to see what would come out

    post-6969-1234158232_thumb.jpg

     

    The magnet came out looking like this 3 or more times, then there was substantially less.

     

    Next up was the front diff, pulled the plug

    post-6969-1234158364_thumb.jpg

    Yeah I'm fooked!

     

    Guess a rebuild is instore.

     

    The good thing is that I think my front bearings are shot too :cry:

     

    I didn't even have the heart to pull the starter to have a look, I figured with my luck that it would be messed up as well.

     

    Oh well, so goes the story of Hot Rods. Drive break fix!!

     

    If anyone is getting rid of a transfer case I'm in the market unless someone has other suggestions???

     

    I think I'm gonna have 4wheel Parts in Jacksonville rebuild my front diff, they said they would do it for $700 with everything.

     

    Any input or suggestions on a further course of action, please chime in-Thanks!!!

  19. Front Diff

    in AWD, Differential, & Transmission Tech

    Posted

    So by some chance these are the 4:11 gears ....would this be possible ?? thats all i would need is the switch with the harness right ??

    Not trying to dicourage you or anything man, it just doesnt seem that it would be that easy. It seems like the transfer case would have alot to do with selectable 4x4 vs AWD since that is the big difference. Maybe that wiring is simply for a sensor that acknowledges that 4x4 is engaged. I have been researching a front diff swap and it seems guys have had more success with a jaspers umit ($1900) or a quality rebuild on their existing unit by a repuidable rebuilder. A couple of guys have done the rebuild themselves, but I dont think it was their first rodeo-setting lash. My 2

  21. Please Help! Klanking/rattling Noise

    in AWD, Differential, & Transmission Tech

    Posted · Edited by rwoodards (see edit history)

    By what you just described it sounds like the Viscious clutch in transfer case is going bad,drain fluid if its looks like some bad grease or a silver color thats your problem.if you catch it in time you can change it with out replacing the whole unit.The viscous clutch works like a limited slip diff if that helps

    Good luck

    My thoughts were initially with the transfer case. When I first put it up on the lift the transfer case seemed to have a little slop in it when changing the direction of rotation on the driveshaft with the trans in neutral. It this normal? I am unfimiliar with the tolerances of an AWD vehicle.

     

    Thanks for the valued input, keep it coming gang :chevy:

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