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rwoodards

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Posts posted by rwoodards

  1. This all new to me, up here in VT all gas comes from the same place, there is only two distributors in VT, S.B. Collins and Champlain Oil. So up here you are getting the same exact gas from a Mobil as you would from a Shell, Texaco, Citgo, etc. Its not like that everywhere else?

    Anyone know the answer to this question? In Florida I often see Eagle trucks filling multiple stations. I too am a 1.Shell 2.Chevron 3. HESS 4.BP guy but I wonder what is the difference if I see the same truck at all the stations. I mise well buy gas and add techron additive???

  2. ive got a 406 thats buildt with 9800.00 is recets in it . im asking 5500 for it its got world productions heads on it with 650 hp to the ground 700 at the flywheel.it only needs the top end finished to be fully rolled. build to run 8600 rpm but only run at 7000. never had anything go wrong with it at all. stong running motor. anyone interested hit me up . or give me a call 641-202-6565 . im located in iowa.

    Wow what a post :uhoh: I really think that you should post up some specs: crank, block (non ls, numbers), rods, pistons etc. Those are some things I'm sure you would want to know before u even called about a $5500. Just trying to help you with a sale man.

    Rob

  3. funny thing that i was reading another post and i saw your signature so i was going to ask you if you could post it up. then i come here and its like you read my mind :confused: thanks :D

    Thanks for looking. It needs a little work( I hate the louvered hood), I'm thinking about dropping a big block in it within the next year.

    Rob

  4. I wanted to rap my post up as I have found the problem and fixed it. First of all thanks to all those who gave input towards the tedious trouble shooting.

     

    I would also like to thank 4 Wheel Parts located in Jacksonville Fl on 103rd ST. These guys brought my truck into their shop and put it on jack stands to help me do some trouble shooting, FOR FREE!

     

    It turns out that the problem was my transfer case, changed it and the problem is fixed. :cheers:

    I purchased my transfercase from the dealership for about $1150 with a warranty.

    I had it installed by 4 Wheel Parts for pretty cheap and they changed all of my u-joints for the same price that quoted for the transfer case(both front and rear driveshafts). I didnt do the swap myself because I have been strapped for time with work and needed it done.

     

    In conclusion my problem is fixed, If you have a similar problem then I would review this entire topic to reviews others inputs, hope this helps the next guy.

     

    Rob

     

    Also Check this out if you think your t-case viscous coupler is bad:

  5. I expected a little gain but this seems odd to me..

     

    I averaged 13.9 on dash.. This is after basically 3 years of driving, never changed..

    Someone correct me if I'm wrong but I believe that the avg MPG only computes a range(example your last 100 miles). So not resetting it for 3 yrs does not give you a 3 yr avg.

     

    I agree about the hand calculation, I would pick a known distance between 2 locations to insure your mile counter is not off. If your computer was corrected for gearing (speedo heal) it could be assuming a farther distance traveled than actual therefore increasing your mpg. My 2C

     

    Rob

  6. Let me know what you guys would prefer. Obviously the no hardware raw version would be substantially less expensive and the more complete would be substantially more expensive.

    Has anyone checked fitment issues for the 6 piston on the rear. Is there a 15" rotor for the rear, with all the issues with the 6 piston calipers on th 14" rotors upfront it seems that 15" would be a must for the rear.

  7. Ok, I've done extensive searches and I don't think this is the normal clunking that everyone has talked about in threads past. Let me begin...while coasting in the staging lanes with the truck in neutral, I hear and feel two clunk noises right under my feet/front drive shaft area. I don't feel anything in the wheel. No biggie, I discount it as a bumb and I go on with my run. On the next pass while accelerating down track right around the 2-3 shift, I hear it and feel it again...just one this time. After the finish line, I pop it into neutral and I coast through the shut-down area...I hear and feel 3-4 clunks then it goes away. I go up for my next pass and no clunking through acceleration but this time, past the finish line I leave it in 3 and just coast off the gas and I hear and feel multiple clunking and clanking, then it goes away. I turn off track and drive to the pit with no clunks at all.

     

    The question? WTF is going on here? Could it be the steering shaft thing even though it happened when I was going straight? I checked the u-joints for the front drive shaft and they appear fine. Any ideas?

    Check the transfer case, I had the same thing checked my transfer case there was a bunch of metal shavings in it. I am pretty sure my viscous coupler burnt up. Hope this helps.

     

    Rob

  8. this is true i had the 4482 stock. full time awd with 4lo lock. its horrible for traction with any power. when i would launch at the track the front right wheel would come off the ground just a bit, when doing so all the power goes right to it. so the brakes would kick in to hold it still but wouldn't let off till the next gear. and on the streets it wasn't much better. the front tires would spin and torque steer me all over the place. with this case (149) it is way better.

     

    the pop/bang noise i think is the cv axles. if you brake stall it, it will bang. but if you just floor it from a dig, when boost comes in it has mulitple pops. also i have a wierd scraping wind noise type of sound that i can't figure out. this sound has been there with ever case i've installed so its not the case. it comes and goes with bumps in the road. its hard to explain, but the noise is there only while moving (any speed) and in drive or nuetral. its a rotating type noise not a bad shock up and down type noise.

    I'm having a similar problem http://www.silveradoss.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=50992

    I think I norrowed it down to the transfer case. I think my viscous coupler is done I get the clicking that sounds like it comes from the CVs. I think that the coupler alternates between working and not working and that causes the cvs to make noise. Upon inspection my transfer case also had what seemed to be an excessive amount of side to side play in the rear shaft. I just ordered a reman tcase from the dealership so we will see. If anyone has any suggestions for me chime right in. Hope this helps.

    Rob

  9. just got back from a trip to Arkansas from Maryland and back. on my way back i came to a rest stop, and when i turned hard the whole truck vibed real bad. like if it had a locker in the front end. at first i thought it was my detroit in the rear but you could feel it in the front. also when i get on it there is a loud pop noise from the front.

    I went through the same thing still not positive but I think it is my viscous coupler in my transfer case. Change your front diff fluid and transfer case fluid and see if there is much metal. My 2 cents

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