zippy
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Posts posted by zippy
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You could do 18's with Mickey Thompson DR's or 20's with Nitto NT05-R's if you were making big power. Since it sounds like you aren't in that big of a power range I'd do 18's with either something cheap that just fits or if you want a decent look to add to it go with Nitto NT05 non drag radials in a 295/45R18's with the XL option.
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I'm curious why you used the transfercase from the TBSS? The trans from the TBSS is pretty much the same unit as the 4L70E Vortec Max trucks. The 07' up TBSS trucks and NNBS Vortec Max trucks also use the input speed sensor also which can be eliminated if you do a swap such as this swap into a truck with the older style pcm. I'd be interested in seeing how much different the torsen style limited slip in the transfercase for the TBSS will hold compard to the Silverado SS's viscous coupler style. Unfortunatly you'd need about 600hp to really get a hard enough launch to see the difference in how well the mid-diff transfers the power.
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Drivetrain info based on your question:
Front diff: Doesn't really have much issue with breakage since they just spin the tire if you get alot of power to them due to them being an open diff. If you worry about the bearing failure that many have you can put in a diff cooler kit and very much reduce the chance of failure for that.
Rear diff: The stock rear diff in these has a gov-lock which will hold well into the 11's without breaking, but once you get past about 500hp or so they do have an issue with locking since they really are only made for truck duties, not performance. The girdle thing may be piece of mind for many, but it's more for looks than anything. If you aren't making enough power to blow the gov-lock to pieces, then you aren't flexing the housing enough to move the caps to need the girdle cover. Either way I would recomend at some point if you like going to the track or just hard launches at all to do an upgraded diff like the Tru-Trac, Detroit Locker, or normal Eaton clutch type posi unit. If you go through the trouble of doing the diff though I would say do a cool cover like the girdle style because they can help bearing wear and more importantly they look bad ass from the back of the truck.
Transfer case: Just make sure you use good fluid and like the front diff you can also do a cooler if you have any indication from the fluid that it has been running hot.
Transmission: The 4L65E in these trucks is a decent piece to start with. Many have ran in the low 12's with stock units with only shift kits in them. How you treat them is very important as well as who you have work on it. One of the most important things with this is the tune since that is the main key in proper pressure control for the shifts. If you have a good tune done and you treat the truck with respect you should be fine. I would look into a well built unit for the future though since if you plan to make big power it is the best way to go. Don't just have a local builder do it either. If you look around on here at the people who bash the 60/65/70E transmissions they commonly have had issue's and have had transmissions built by the wrong people/company.
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You can put the 6.0L in his truck using his stock injectors and pump. The 6.0L and 5.3L do use the same injectors and pump, but if you plan on modding the 6.0L much you will run out of injector quickly (assuming it isn't an L53 truck stock). Injectors are cheap if you end up needing them. Just have the stock pcm re-tuned for the 6.0L and you'll be fine, very easily done. If you have any questions I can help you if needed when you go to do the swap. Just call the number in my sig if you I can be of help.
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Yes, for these trucks. If you order the headers for the new body style trucks those are it. They re-designed the header for the new body style trucks to fit both the new body style and 99'-07' trucks. That was exactly what I posted earlier in this topic. The member you see on here named World Class has an 03' SSS and they used his truck to re-design the header so that it now fits 99-2013 trucks. As mentioned though their website is not correct at the moment because it is going through a big change. If you have any questions on this feel free to call me or Kooks and I'll give you a better run down on the situation. They also make the pipes that connect the headers to the catback.
for these trucks? any info on where to find them, because last time i checked on their website and they didnt offered any for the sss
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Kooks does make 1 3/4 and 1 7/8" headers that fit the SSS truck already as said already by the_aSSet. This post is about them working on them building another option which is a 2" header for the big power guys. I was going to post a link to their site, but I'll wait until their site is corrected. Either way if you want a 1 3/4 or 1 7/8" header and are interested in Kooks brand for your SSS or any 99-2012 Silverado they currently make them. I just checked their site and it does say 2009-11, but that will be corrected soon. I'll be sending pm's with pricing tomorrow, but anyone can call for pricing from here on.
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I'm not even going to get into that discussion. This is a post looking for interest in those who want to go to the bigger header. You either have interest or you dont. If you're making more than 500RWHP you will see a gain in going to a header around this size. A stock 317 casting isn't even 1 5/8" across so by all means just put on a 1 5/8" inch primary header and you'll be just fine.
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They are big for a stock cube truck, that is correct. A 2" primary header is basicly there for trucks that are 400+ inches or extreme 364's such as idahoBLKss's truck. If you had an LQ9 that is pushing 15psi of boost than a 2" primary would benefit you. For a stock motor mildly modified or with a low boost setup a 1 7/8" header is plenty. There are many 400+ cubic inch trucks out there now and it is great to at least have the option of a bigger header like the F-Body and Y-Body guys have. As I see it any time I can pick up more power by simply making the setup more efficient I'm all for it. I've dyno'd many vehicles with different size headers and there is certainly a gain in having the right size header for your setup.
As for fitment, Kooks has assured us that they can make them with no fitment issue's and with the quality I've always experienced with Kooks I don't doubt them at all. It took so long for truck guys to even be able to get a 1 7/8" header that I'm really happy to see Kooks willing to step up to the plate to help me get a 2" header made. When you look at the power many on this site are making a big tube header will be nice to have as an option. Currently the track times list has 10 trucks running quicker than 11.8 and to do so in a truck as heavy as the SSS, that's some real power and moving some real air. -
Tire pressure really depends on the tire size and type that you have as does heating them. I've heard for years from guys with no experience of running on street tires to never do a burnout for starters. These are the same guys who say you cant run fast on street tires. Rubber is rubber, and when it is softer it will stick better. My 06' without a burnout for example would spin right through first and straight to second off the line if I didn't heat them. Almost every pass I've made with my personal vehicles has been on street tires. What I'd recomend for you:
If you have a tire in the stock size which is 275/55R20 I'd run them down to 24 or so and that's with checking them cold such as just before you go up to make the pass. If you get too low you'll be biting more on the outside tread and too much will get you on the inside tread. When it is all correct you'll see the whole tire showing sign of having contacted the pavement. You can even do a quick stab in the pits somewhere where there is nobody parked and look at your tire as well as your mark. The bigger the tire is the less pressure you need, but remember it is still a truck. Even a 5000lb extended cab truck will have 2000+lbs on the rear tires sitting still.
When it comes to heating them that will all depend on the compound of tire you have. A hard tire will work best with a clean off which means go around the box if possible, hold the brake and get'm spinning. As soon as you get some rpm, let off the brake which should take mearly 1-2 seconds and begin to ease up letting them catch after 5 feet or so. Basicly 3-4 seconds of light spin. When you do this also hold the trans in first gear because if it shifts it will be hard on the trans. You won't need much tire speed so first will do fine. If you have a performance type of tire you can go a bit further with it. Go around the box any time you can because water on the front tires will cause a problem with traction when the rear tires drive over the spot the front tires were just sitting. Back into the water if you can and when they tell you it's ok to spin'm up, pull forward just far enough to be out of the water and then go for it. This will make sure you don't spray water on the body of the truck behind the tires. The water on the tires makes it easier on the drivetrain to get the tires spinning. Make sure both get wet, not just one or you can break or damage the diff. Give it enough power to get spinning quick through first, shift to second, and let off the brake. Go about 5-7 feet spinning in second and let off. Shift to 3rd when you let off and as the tires catch it'll all happen smoothly. This whole process should take about 5 seconds. Try it different ways to see what works best for your truck. I've raced with alot of different street tires in alot of different cars and always have great 60' times considering including 1.9 60' times with my 06' on 20's. I've even pulled a 2.02 60' with an 05 VHO with 245/70R17 General's on there. They were the standard tires that came on an 05' base model truck.
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I have worked a deal with Kooks directly including talking to Jr. himself about this and they have agreed to make a 2" primary header for the trucks such as ours. With as many 400+ cubic inch trucks as we have out there the market for them certainly exists and as a result they have agreed to make them. The deal was handled through George Kook Jr, Anthony, and I. If you have interest in a 2" header, post it up and I can get you on the list for them.
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For a tune truck that is a rather crappy time. I can see why you were disappointed. As for whether or not they have done alot of trucks really doesn't say much either. I've fixed tunes for guys that have been tuned by big name tuners who didn't go any faster tuned than not tuned. Many tuners whether at a shop or not learned by internet reading and don't know what most of the stuff even does that they change.
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From what I've seen on a stock truck a tune tends to be worth about .3-.4 gain depending on weather and who tuned it.
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Well after 2 years in Arizona I have decided to exit stage left. I really like the company and the amazing amount of equipment in the shop. Unfortunatly I don't agree many of the issue's I have to deal with there so I will now for the first time in my life be starting a new job to be proud of. I will at the end of October be running Zippy Performance full time and as my only job finally. This for the site means that I will be on here alot more since it will be part of my job. This does mean though I will have my own facility to do work, I'll be selling parts again full time as well as working on my own stuff. I plan to have my own custom grinds for camshafts, my own cold air intakes, aluminum driveshafts, etc. The shop will be full service as well as work on engineering new products and testing current one's. Hopefully I can give what is expected.
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Not really quite so close, but you can just call TJ. He can take care of you.
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You will really be happy with your choice if you go to a 4.10 gear. Even with the stock tire height the 3.73 isn't enough gear. I've worked on a few 2wd SSS's that have had a gear change and it is a good gain all the way around. Milage in the city will be roughly the same and on the highway you'll notice only a small change in mileage. On a 2wd SSS it's about one of the best mods to start with.
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We had a customer bring us one at work to install. I believe the first one lasted less than a thousand miles. He's on his 3rd now.
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For the 3-4 clutch set do not use the Kolene steels with the blue plate clutch's. This will wear them out very fast and they don't need the Kolene for the extra bite. I only use the blue plates in performance builds and stopped using Kolene steels years ago when I talked with an engineer from Raybestos when they postd a bulliten just for that. Since then I use the blue plate fibers with clean normal steels. Installed correctly they won't slip. I recomend the Raybestos Pro-Series band for the 2-4 band, but do not recomend any wide-band setup without machining the Reverse/Input drum that it contacts on. For a non-nitrous, non-boosted setup a standard good quality corvette servo will be plenty with a billet 4th gear servo. Without going into a huge list on here again this is a short list of my info.
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Thanks guys, I appreciate the understanding. He called me this morning and I called him back. Calling is the best way for anyone to contact me. I haven't been on here much since i got my new password because it is quite a pain in the ass for a password and I haven't found the tab to change it. (as an admin it isn't easy to change). Either way, thank you and always, always call when you want to contact me. If I don't answer or call back, call again after a bit.
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Running those speeds I'm assuming you either have a taller than stock tire or you are going into overdrive at wide open. Headers will help quite a bit along with the intake and fans. With running the truck wide open for that long I'd say tuning, octane of the fuel, and spark plug choice will be very important. You'll create alot of heat by the time you get past 120.
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The stock driveshaft is pretty good and doesn't have too much of a failure rate. I would highly recomend getting it balanced though as the stock balance job is pretty crappy. I'm curious what mods have you done so far to achieve those speeds. One nice thing about the Silverado/Sierra trucks is the almost limitless number of mods you can do to them. Congrats on getting back out there even after going through hell so many times in your life. If you're not enjoying life you're not living it...
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If you need a fuel pump I would check with the Racetronix kits. On the other hand do yourself a favor and diagnose the problem before you just replace parts. Scan the truck and check to see if the O2 voltage drops when you feel the truck lay over. If it does this will tell you that you may have a fuel pump issue. Checking fuel pressure would be the best way though. If you don't have a scan tool or fuel pressure gauge try to borrow one if you can first though because replacing a part and then finding out afterward that you didn't need to is expensive and will drive you nuts. I see you have long tubes although it doesn't say if you have cats. If you do have cats make sure to check them for being plugged up. This can also cause the truck to lay over and very much so in fact.
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Exhaust leak. Check your bolts on your exhaust maniflolds. There are a few others places you can look for exhaust leaks, but manifold bolts backing out or breaking off are very common. That is the first thing I'd check.
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Best bang for the buck is finding an MP112 Magnacharger. Bolt that on with a 3.3" pulley and you should have trouble free power for the most part. If you plan to do a few more mods down the road I would recomend a Magnacharger TVS2300 with a 3.4" pulley. It will require switching to a 90mm throttle body though. The MP112 is great for a stock 6.0L, but you really need to consider if you are going to consider mods in the future. If the blower alone is enough, go MP112. If more is going to be desired go with the TVS2300.
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After the site was hacked my password was screwed up and I haven't been able to get on until recently and have just been able to get enough time to go through the rather long process to reset my stuff to get on here. I still have some stuff to do, but my point is that I haven't been missing by choice I just haven't been able to get on here. For those who have sent me pm's I won't be anywhere near caught up until sometime this weekend. The wife will be out of town leaving just me and the dogs at home this weekend. This does mean I will be able to catch up, but I am very behind. Very sorry to those waiting to hear back from me. As I always say feel free to call when you need me.
Zippy
New Personal Best, LVD 2012
in Strip
Posted
Looking over your mod list I would say you have have an issue with IAT's being high although the weather isn't that bad for it, but certainly tuning looks to be an issue. Running boost and a 3200 converter your 60' time should be much better and when you consider the rest of your mods assuming your at 8psi or so you should be trapping 102 or so. Something isn't adding up.