4.8t
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Posts posted by 4.8t
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so i was looking around on here. why don't people like the stock ls2 tires? mine hooks up great and ride good and are quiet. i'm comparing these to my stock 17" wheel and tire combo that had no traction in the rain at all even AWD. but being that i have a better weight distrubution than the pickups, maybe thats why mine hooks so good. they hooked good enough to break two rear axles with the awd removed.
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ok let me rephrase for smart asses. STOCK you cannot fit the girdle. however if you make a new panhard bar you can fit the girdle.
i was refering to stock setups.
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looks like my stock setup was out a bit. about .011. i got it to about .007 now. but i need to check the drag with the diff installed. i got the pinion right at 29inlbs. the pattern looks good but its not in the middle of the ring gear teeth. it is one way but not the other. the pattern covers most the tooth but its closer to one end then the other. if i post a pic can you guys tell me what ya think. its funning cause rear ends seem to be easier than the front.
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i just bought a master ring and pinion install kit from 4wheelparts for $62 to do mine.
gmperformanceguy, are the stock specs for back lash and what not good or are there better clearances to use? i'm about to set mine up soon as i can get a inchlb torque wrench to set my pinion. i just want to make sure the factory settings are good. i can tell already that the way it came from the factory it was off. it seems a little loose.
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well i'm finally rebuilding the front end now. its scatter out on the kitchen table. man those pinion races are a mother to get back in. all i got to do is tighten down the pinion nut to the correct torque and set the back lash. i got my new trutrac today!!woot woot!!
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from what i have gathered so far, the reason for the "new manual fluid" is that gm does not sell dex III anymore. and they dont want the use of dex 6 in the cases (too thin or something like that and it does not wear correctly) so they came up with this new stuff. so i would think dexIII of the shelf would be fine.
maybe some lucas atf adder stuff to go with it (just a thought).
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Had the parts guy put in my v.i.n. number...
GM says to use manual trans fluid now...at least for my year...
Had to switch over/back to Dextron fluid due to the dealership being closed on weekends...trust me the Auto-trck fluid was MUCH smoother and quieter...using the 'new' manual trans the dealer sold me until I can stop the leak...
And one more thing good luck finding a 'low' priced transfer case...the pump arm wore a hole through mine...and most of us will have to 'back half' our cases soon enough...153k miles on my old gal...
and we have a NVG-149 transfer case...i have been looking...
get a new pump wear retainer clip, the new style. then jb weld the hole or find a local guy that can weld it. personally i jb welded mine, but i had a friend that had his welded up. it looked good. the new style pump retainer clips to the pump itself not the case so that they don't break like before. its a $5 piece vs a new case.
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thats what i said. you would have to use a 2.5" id spring with a high lb in rate. i came across a good deal to try this i just need the money to do it.
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i seen a right up of a coilover lift they did on a tahoe. they used the fox shocks and bolted in place of stock shock. then they beat the snot out of it off road. if it can handle that i would think stock location would be fine for us. no? and be the cheapest route. i want stock hieght myself.
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i have no issues getting to the spark plugs or anything else. hell nelson new setup uses stock manifolds on both side. either way. as long as it works. i had to take a sts kit off a guys Toyota he like it ok. but he got tired of the noise. he couldn't fit a muffler in there so it was just racket coming from his exhaust. but i go the meth kit off it. and the boost controller.
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you will be fine with 4.10, there is no problem with loading the turbo unless the trubo is too cold. but that should really not be a problem. They also help getting our pigs moving easier.
As far as your reasoning for front mount, Unless you just want underhood bling... the STS is very capable of all a front mount can do. Minus the under hood heat.
underhood temps are not that big of a deal if you wrap the pipes. but it seems to me that most sts people wind up with oil pump issues or just wind up going front mount. and most of those people who go front mount say the spool time is incredibly decreased by going to the front. either way im going to keep my front mount where its at. oh, and you might wanna check back pressures with those things. using that small turbine like they do, guys have recorded over 3:1 exhaust to boost pressure ratios. i enjoy my front mount, full boost comes on in seconds. also i can get 5+psi boost in over drive 2000rpm 30% throttle.
and my turbo stays clean.
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Has anyone just mounted a turbo at the end of a Y-pipe or anything? Figure you could weld up a flange right there at the end and mount it right there.
Sorry for taking the topic off track
trick has a low front mount kit that mount low but real close to the engine bay.
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go front mount!!!
anybody else have any opinion on gears in AWD trucks?
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i won't be going 3.42's for sure. i understand loading the turbo, but do any of you guys have problems making boost? it seems like 4.10 would get me around alittle better. i think my only issue is that i don't want to kill mileage. i have 3.73's now. with a 5.3l tc78 turbo. backed by a sc3200.
just wondering here but do lower gears help take stress off the trans? since its geared down it doesn't have to work as hard right?
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kinda wondering what gears you AWD turbo guys are running. the stock sss has 4.10's right? are you guys swapping them out or relying on the awd grip to load the turbo and enjoy massive acceleration? my front end needs rebuilt so i need gears anyway and my detroit locker is broke, so i have to reinstall a new one. i figured if 4.10's are good for awd and 20's with turbo then its a good time to do it.
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so how much more power does it take to drop a 60ft in awd vs 2wd? or is it more of traction? watching my runs where i didn't break things and i thought i was hooking, i can see the rear tire turn over one or two good times before hooking hard and launching.
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different front end all together. i looked it up ones. and theirs is cast iron.
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kinda what i was thinking.
he sold the ole silverado. he cracked a sleeve in the motor which is why he kept popping head gaskets. since then he and his crew built a 5.3 turbo fairmount that went easy 9's and all kinda of other things.
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Hm... 10s huh... OK thats GREAT to know lol. Although im SURE it wouldnt hurt to beef up the rear in these things anyway.
look up parish on youtube and streetfire. he went as fast as 10.01 i believe. hell he ran 10.9's with the stock g80. his friend blew that up on the street in 2wd.
here is a new idea for me. found out not only does 4wheelparts dot com offer a lifetime warranty on the tru-trac they offer it on their aftermarket axle's. its 10% the cost of the part. so for $7** i can get a tru-trac and superior axles with a lifetime warranty. if you break it all you have to pay for is the warranty on the new part. so break and axle its like $15 if that and if you break the tru-trac its $40. not too bad. then install a new (bent) pan hard bar and fit a girdle in there.
then fix the front end and put the nv149 t-case back in and call it good. that should handle good....right?
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stock 4x4 has went as fast as 10's in the quarter mile. most just leave it engaged because when its under torque its known to not disengage anyway.
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9" is too much work and would take more power to turn, not to mention its a ford part. 14bolt from a new model escalade will bolt in.
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Hmmm. I dont get any kind of traction in 2wd.... And currently in 4wd leaving under any type of throttle all 4 go up in smoke, leaving of idle has netted me 1.81-85 consistantly. I am working on a completely new line of shocks to hold the front down and limit the rear squat. 4 new wheels and drag radials are on the get list as well, my intention is to leave harder getting traction and getting 1.6 or lower 60's. Only time will tell......
go back to awd or a selectable 4wd is my opinion .
i use to not get any traction 2 or AWD. but then i went to 20's with good tires and i can hook 2wd as long as i don't spool it up too much. both times it actually started to spin with a boosted launch, is when broke the axle.
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sheesus that's some busted parts.
We've seen a couple turbo'd Escalades down here and they run HARD, so what you're wanting to do IS possible.
If you are going AWD I would consider modeling after the SSS/Escalade running gear, OR even better (just thought this) the TBSS AWD running gear. The factory 10-bolt axle we have is proven if you install a locker, rear cap stud kit, rear diff girdle/cover, and aftermarket axles. The 14-bolt rear axle is almost indestructable but modding it is very, very expensive and you will still need to upgrade it with an aftermarket locker.
Front Axle - nobody has destroyed a front axle yet for 2 reasons, first the rear transfer case torque split, second because the front axle is open (no locker or positraction) so if you attempt to put a ton of power to the front axle one wheel or the other will spin because rarely do the two wheels have *exactly* the same amount of traction and in an open diff the wheel with least traction even if that difference is very small will spin, and that completely relieves the stress on the axle casing. I have a feeling that if the front diff had a posi installed and the tires could get serious bite on the front axle we would see a lot more front axle failures simply because the load has been increased.
On my truck I am going to investigate travel-straps; we'll see.
Personally, my suggestion is to keep your Tahoe 2WD and build it well; unless you want the AWD for other reasons, like bad weather driveability or best street traction.
Mr. P.
well, stock i had a borgwarner AWD t-case like the older escalades. but it has an open diff stock and relied on the brakes to transfer power front to rear or vise versa. it sucked for any kind of 60ft. the front wheel would just spin then the brakes would lock in and it was just horrible. i kinda figured that about the front end. i think mine was just from wear and tear like alot of the AWD guys.
weather i got to the 14bolt or stay 10bolt i have to buy a new locker or tru-trac. and we can't fit the girdle on our rear due to the panhard bar.
Stock Ls2 Tires
in Rims and Rubber
Posted
i like to know how you guys get that many miles and years out of any tire. it just doesn't seem to work for me.