4.8t

thought you guys would like to see. the locker has been in the rain for a few days, it rusted pretty dang fast.

when i called those companies they told me if i'm breaking axles that easy then theirs wouldn't help much. they both told me to go 14bolt. i did tell them i was 2wd not awd though. i had a Detroit but this last axle that broke took out the locker too. it cracked the housing where the bearing seats it also snapped the inner bearing race in half. i was able to just peel it off. lol

i have a question about the SSS t-case. i thought about leaving the 10bolt out back when i go back to AWD but one thing i'm worried about is what are the chance that my front looses traction on a hard launch and all that power going to my 10bolt again. then i would have yet another snapped axle. since its such a easy swap should i say screw it and go ahead with the 14bolt swap (direct bolt in) any way?

not sure about soaring on the top end with my fat hoe, 6000+lbs. lol i do remember loving the fact i could hook in the rain and all but i got to a point where in the rain i couldn't hook. but i have better tires now and it hooks a lot better. but its 2wd and i'm breaking axles and can't hook if there is any water on the road. on thing i have that you guys don't is weight distribution 52/48 IIRC. you guys with these low 60's are you limiting the front end travel at the track? i have a good rake on mine and it still pulls the front end up past level and the rear squats like you wouldn't believe. that was one reason i didn't like the AWD at the track, the front would just spin and at times it would bounce the tire off the ground. that however was with the stock Borgwarner t-case. i never got to make it out there with the SSS t-case. the front started whining before i ever made it to the track. the gears, spider gears and bearing are pitted like crazy with some chunks missing.

what kind of 60ft's do you AWD guys get? and have you broke the front end with low 60ft's, or does it hold up? i converted to 2wd for a while but now i'm breaking my 10bolt axles so i was thinking of going to a 14bolt and back to AWD. but i wasn't sure if the 60ft would suffer or get better with AWD. or if the front would hold up.

so no body has ever had to buy a chain for their transfer case?

where can i get a new chain for my t-case? it is stretched for sure. i can touch both sides of the case at the same time with it installed.

wish i would have seen this. i just sent my check to them. same thing level 5 with billet input and output shafts. AKA level 7.

this is true i had the 4482 stock. full time awd with 4lo lock. its horrible for traction with any power. when i would launch at the track the front right wheel would come off the ground just a bit, when doing so all the power goes right to it. so the brakes would kick in to hold it still but wouldn't let off till the next gear. and on the streets it wasn't much better. the front tires would spin and torque steer me all over the place. with this case (149) it is way better. the pop/bang noise i think is the cv axles. if you brake stall it, it will bang. but if you just floor it from a dig, when boost comes in it has mulitple pops. also i have a wierd scraping wind noise type of sound that i can't figure out. this sound has been there with ever case i've installed so its not the case. it comes and goes with bumps in the road. its hard to explain, but the noise is there only while moving (any speed) and in drive or nuetral. its a rotating type noise not a bad shock up and down type noise.

i agree. yank said not to lock the tcc up during WOT. its not a secret. i had a tt3000 it went through 2 trucks. i had to take it out due to fi. it was blowing through it pretty good. i now have a pt3200. i love this thing.

it also had a weird shimmy while driving down the road. i'm not sure if it was the Tennessee roads or the rear tires, or something else. after i got into Virginia it went away it seemed.

should a good set of gears be installed while doing this the first time? or are the stockers plenty strong? i have a popping noise when i get on it hard and i wonder if its the pinion slipping on the ring or something. it will pop just once or twice. also if you were to make this a regular maint thing how aftone would you do it? every 20,000 or so?

thats what i was wondering because it went away when it cool down. but it didn't happen everytime. what would cause it to heat up the viscous coupler and engage it?

just got back from a trip to Arkansas from Maryland and back. on my way back i came to a rest stop, and when i turned hard the whole truck vibed real bad. like if it had a locker in the front end. at first i thought it was my detroit in the rear but you could feel it in the front. also when i get on it there is a loud pop noise from the front.

growl seems to go away when it has enough fluid. we'll see how this thing does now. but i have a weird bang in my floor board when i stall it up with boost. is there anything i may have forgotten during the swap that is banging the floor board.

well the housing is too far gone for a new bushing. i tore the old one out. the new one just fell right in..........and out and in and out. just so happens i had a np246 around and the rear housing is the same part number as the the np149. so I'm going to use it.

i found a trans shop that said they could do it for $20. is that fair? he said something about a bushing cutter and then he would put the new one in. sounded like he was going to use a hammer and a big punch to put it in. is this ok?

i guess there is a bulletin on this too. so all i need to do is replace the bushing and throw it back in. so about that, how do you replace the stupid thing. it looks like a cam bearing inside there.

it smelled like 90 weight oil and was black. i found no leaky area on the coupler. plus if it was out of fluid it would spin easily. thats what the book says anyway.

what is the bushing though? is it just the rear bearing or what?

i have a 2004 tahoe. it came stock awd with the borgwarner transfer case. it sucks for traction due to the fact it relied on the brakes to transfer power. so, i bought a SSS nvg 149 case and installed it. well i have two problems with it. first one is it keep blowing out rear seals. it will work great then all the sudden just puke fluid out the back. the vent is good so its not that and i serviced it right. i read about a bushing. where is it located here is a break down just tell me what number http://www.denalitrucks.com/documents/serv...-149%20view.htm . the second is when i turn it growls. it started doing it the moment i installed it. remember i came stock awd and I've never had this sound until the t-case swap. so it tell me its the case. I'm not sure what to check for this one. now, when i got the case i took it apart to inspect it after pulling the drain plug and finding black crap oil in it. i found most the bearings rusted mostly surface rust. i oil part and cleaned part and it all started working good. i could move the viscous coupler inside and outer body separately as its suppose to. it wasn't easy but it would move. all the bearing were freed up and spinning freely before i reinstalled everything. with that said do they make a re-man kit for these? Mike

pm sent

everybody wants to keep theres huh?

i need a SSS transfer case to replace the case in my Tahoe. it has the borgwarner AWD unit in there now and i don't like it at all. it uses the brakes to transfer power from front to bake and it sucks for launching. i'm at 20670 let me know what you have. just be straight i do want a np-149