06VHO

I have not raced my 06 VHO with the towing on. I will have to try that next time I go to the track. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> It will likely slow your truck down. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> That is what I thought and is why I never tried it. I will probably try it next time out anyhow, just to see the difference with my truck. put-put-put

I have not raced my 06 VHO with the towing on. I will have to try that next time I go to the track.

Sounds like you had a lttle fun, eh? Nice times. WOW, your 100th post too.

On some older vehicles if you switched to a 160 t-stat and did not do a re-tune, it would run rich because it would not reach a high enough temperature to get out of cold engine mode (not sure of the proper name for that). Power and mileage would suffer. Can someone confirm are trucks don't have any negative effects from switching to a 160 t-stat and no retune? If it has zero negative effects I will probably be changing to a 160 t-stat in the near future. TIA.

I have not advertised my 4L80E for sale yet, because I have not decided on selling it yet. If someone was interested though, hmmmm. What I was asking was, to stay with the AWD, does it require a 4WD or 2WD version of the 4L80E? I am not familiar with the SSS AWD System. Anyone

This is meant as constructive criticism. If I am understanding everything here, your pvc tube is not sealed to the bottom of the air box. Did you seal off the factory inlet holes in the air box? If not, the problems I see here are as follows. If the factory inlet holes in the air box are not sealed off your ram air will escape through those holes and now your air box is full of air being picked up very near the road. During summer time the air closest to the pavement is the warmest air you could ram into your air box. Most race cars collect their intake air from as high up as possible. If your pvc tube and factory inlet holes in the air box are not sealed off you are missing out on the biggest benefit of ram-air and that is boost, Yes Boost. With out some form of ram-air your intake manifold pressure at wide open throttle is below atmospheric pressure (vacuum). With an efficient ram-air system or forward facing air scoop, your intake manifold pressure at wide open throttle will be above atmospheric pressure (boost). The faster you go the more boost you will make. IRL cars make a very measurable amount of boost as do Pro Stock cars. Below are some pictures of scoops mounted as high as possible to force as cold of air as possible.

Can that be helped with the installation of the aftermarket planetary sets with lower gear ratios? <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Stock gear ratios: 4L80E= 1st-2.48, 2nd 1.48, 3rd-1.00, 4th 0.75 4L65E= 1st-3.06, 2nd 1.63, 3rd-1.00, 4th 0.70 If you have enough power to need a 4L80E you will get better traction with the 4L80E's 2.48 1st gear ratio. Typically aftermarket planetary gear sets only change the ratios in 1st and 2nd gears. In 3rd gear you are still 1:1. That being said, aftermarket planetary gears will not help. The (4L80E) 0.75 4th gear will not drop rpm as much as the (4L65E) 0.70 4th gear which has pros and cons. Also, if you have 4.10:1 axle ratio and a (4L65E) 0.70 4th gear your final drive ratio= 2.87:1 or a (4L80E) 0.75 4th gear your final drive ratio= 3.08:1 .

Wow, very nice looking truck. That car behind it reminds me of my 1985 IROC-Z, 5.0L H.O. that I traded in on my 1990 Silverado. I tried to keep my 1990 as Stealth as possible. It helped me win a lot of money at the street races. Yes, I remember "those". I had one of those in my 1987 Buick Grand National.

I know a few people who have Gibson's (including my brother on his RCSB 5.3,) and it is really quiet. Way TOO quiet for me. My brother want's louder too. The performance doesn't seem too bad with it though. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Your right, there is definitely a performance gain with a Gibson Performance Exhaust catback. The muffler is a straight-through core design for maximum flow. The Gibson systems are designed for maximum performance and a nice deep sound out the tailpipe, but are quieter in the cab than the rest. If you want straight through performance without a lot of in cab noise, go with Gibson. If you want lots of noise go with something else. I believe the topic starter was looking for a good flowing, quiet system though.

Welcome aboard.

Thanks for the compliment. I am older and wiser now. Althogh I like reading here and getting ideas for my VHO, it will never be fast. I had over $40,000 tied up in my 1990 Silverado and things were cheaper back then (I paid $18,000 for the truck new). Trying to make a heavy truck run quick is a transmission breaking headache and a money pit of a project. I switched to quick cars, which are much cheaper and can go quicker. I bought the VHO to tow my enclosed trailer (car hauler) and cars with. Why a VHO for towing? Well my friend bought a 2005 3/4-ton 6.0L (non-HO) Silverado for towing his enclosed trailer (car hauler) and gets 8.5mpg when towing and 14mpg (when not towing) on the highway. So I looked at the VHO 1/2-ton w/ 6.0 HO (lighter and more powerful). I get 9.5mpg when towing and 20+ mpg (when not towing) on the highway. When I am not towing, my truck looks better and rides better then his and it tows great. The pics below are of my 1968 SS Camaro (runs 11's, daily driver) and my 1975 Vega (runs 9's, street car). They both run on 91-octane pump gas on or off the track. I have about $15,000 tied up in each of them and if I break one of them I just cruise the VHO until I get around to fixing it. For those of you chasing the Holy Grail trying to make your heavy truck the quickest thing around, Enjoy it. I did.

I am glad you noticed that. I bought that truck brand new in 1990. All stock with a 210hp 5.7L it ran 17.20 @ 78mph. I did not have as much to start with compared to an SSS or a VHO. I put one of the first available Whipple Superchargers on it (in the early 90's) along with a 125-shot of nitrous, a catback, a 3,000 stall, a shift kit and sticky tires. Everything else was stock, even the cast exhaust manifolds. It ran 12.32 @ 114mph. This is where I started running into problems. I blew up more 700R4's than you could imagine, every part in the 700R4 seem to be a week link. The stock 3.73-gov-lock rear end blew apart so bad, the only parts that the Chevy Dealer could salvage were the brakes. Gotta love warranty and knowing the service manager. I wanted to go quicker and not break parts. Part of the new plan was making it leave softer. Mind you, not very many people were doing these kinda mods to a truck back in the early 90's, so I had to innovate a lot. I followed through with my new master plan as follows. New engine, transmission and rear end. New engine: 4-bolt main block, forged steel crank, forged rods, forged 8.5:1 pistons, bigger cam, TrickFlow aluminum heads (stockers were Iron Heads), roller rockers, headers, larger throttle body, larger Whipple Supercharger, etc. New transmission: 4L80E with shift kit, 2,400 stall. Rear end: 1992 454SS rear end. 14-bolt, 4.10-gov-lock. Almost a direct bolt-in. With 8.5:1 c/r and a 2,400 stall it left softer. I also did not hit the nitrous until about 30-40 feet out. I was no longer braking parts and made my in the 11's goal "with room to spare" (famous quote, you know who you are).

Also, my current sig pic is me whoopin' a 12-second Nova.

I recently completed the sale of my 1990 5.7L (350) Silverado. "Supercharger" Truck Code=A1 Truck Mods=4b,1c,2c,3c,8c,10c,11c,12c,13c,14c,15c,20c,22c,23c. 1/4-Mile=12.43@111mph,w/ 1.84 60'. "Supercharger and Nitrous" Truck Code=A1 Truck Mods=6a,4b,1c,2c,3c,8c,10c,11c,12c,13c,14c,15c,20c,22c,23c. 1/4-Mile=11.87@118mph,w/ 1.81 60'. White Lightning= The original 1/2-Ton Full Sized Lightning Truck When the Ford Lightning Truck came out, they wanted my license plate. I told them, let's race, I win I get $100, you win you get my plate. I never had to give up my plate. I will also post this in the Brother Track Times.

Wrong that it's dirty, or wrong that you said something? lol. What outlaw intake is that, never seen before? I think the location and design of the intake tube "extra or sac" is interesting. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> click HERE for Outlaw CAI information.

When you AWD guys switch to a 4L80E, do you use a 2WD or a 4WD 4L80E? Reason I ask is, back in the day I upgrade my 11-second 1990 5.7L Silverado from a 700R4 to a 4L80E and I used the 2WD 4L80E and I just sold my 1990 Silverado and still have a good spare 2WD 4L80E. The transmission that was in my Silverado when I sold it was a 4WD 4L80E, that I converted to a 2WD. I just had to change the tail shaft and tail shaft housing.

My owners manual says to use Dexron-VI in my '06 4L65E. Is this what you guys are refering to as GM fluid? I am about to do my first trans service in my nearly stock '06 VHO. I do alot of heavy towing (my race car in my 22' enclosed trailer). Should I be using something other than Dexron-VI?

I also hate drone. I just went with a Gibson Performance Exhaust cat-back. When I first hit the key, I immediately noticed a deep rumble that I did not have stock. It is noticeably louder and deeper around town. On the freeway, I can barely tell it from stock. I am seeing better mpg around town and on the highway. I will need to drive it some more before I get real mpg numbers.

Also, I know PCM4Less will send out a reprogrammed PCM and you can choose to return yours or pay a core charge and hang on to your original. Is this an option with a Zippy Tune?

A lot of tracks are switching to the new NHRA standard for both Sportsman and Pro Tree reaction times, where .000 r/t is a perfect light. So either tawss04 was too slow or to quick. Ok tawss04, spill the beans.

This reminds me of your avatar.

I hate it when that happens!!!!! (You may have to right click and save as) Click Here

Thanks for the replies.

That sounds like what I am looking for. I have heard it called Knock Learn Factor on this site. Is it the same thing?

Don't all pitch in at once.