Quik
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Posts posted by Quik
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So would that net in the same tq and hp rating as getting LS6 heads?
the heads flow the same. the only gain you get from the 243 heads is bump in compression and the power the follows. general rule is for every .5 in cr you raise or lower yoru hp by 15-20
so you can pay the 500 for the 243 heads or have yours milled. now if i was going to go thru effort of this i would find a set of ported 243 heads to make this worth while
livernois sells a good set of 243s with good flow numbers for a decent price
the price of heads 500 + head gaskets+ head bolts + fluids just to gain say 20 hp isnt worth it IMHO. if you found a set of used ported 243s for 800 then it be worth it
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another option is mill your 317s .030 which would be around 100 -150 bucks and would net you the same compression as 243s on that motor
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depending on what you truely want out of the 4.8 will determine your cam size. a tiny tiny cam of a 208/210 wont be much of an improvment for a performance standpoint.
if this is you true daily driver and you just want a little more then yea you could install that cam. a 4.8 can be had to run strong and hang with other motors but you got to treat them like rever's. big gear, big converter, and large cam. they will run well
a 224/224 on a 114 is a decent cam with a 3k stall and 410s for a 4.8. Idle like stock with a good lope and have decent pull to 7k
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Looking very good. Are you keeping the 6 speed?
orignal plans were not to keep it but in this situation i got work with i have
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i seen a lot of turbo set ups @ r.e.t tunning in downey CA with iats well over 120* so no need to lie
superchargers and turbos are both badass is just a matter of preference !!my personal setup never seen high IATs. never once seen 120*. highest was sitting in staging lanes and that was 108*. Typically i see 20* above ambient and that is no meth or E85. Pretty effiecent setup
just not a fan of putting hot air into a motor, which will reduce power and possibly lead to melted motor parts
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First thing, if I had to do my setup over again I would have gone turbo...no question, so take your salesman outfit off. Only reason I am giving you flack is because you are misleading the orginal poster with the word UMPH regarding maggies. From a hole shot there are very few things that will hang with the roots stye blower for the first 60 feet. In a street race that is what you get sometimes. I don't have a TQ curve, I have a TQ wall. Take a look a a dyno sheet of a 2300. The TQ these things make down low is instant and huge. To call that UMPH is very misleading.
We are talking to a person here that is NEW to FI, with little or no experience to superchargers or turbos. Even throwing him a 2300 would be to way to big. You are not trying to sell me a turbo, I am just trying to make you understand there are other very good FI setups out there even maggies that add more than UMPH as you put it.
And to say "step up to the big leagues" you mean like Funny cars, or rails? How many turbos you see on those. I know with the way things are going we will eventually see turbos on both but for right now don't forget superchargers still are king of the hill. Way off topic I know but don't jump into the "big leagues" argument yet with your turbo setup.
to put an end to this I love turbos, BUT to the orginal post, I think a 1900 maggie would be great for your setup.
again youre arguing for the hell of it to just make a post. ive said all along maggie is what would be best f or HIM. that little more umph is there with the maggie
o btw. the big blowers those funny cars your speak of arent the same as the maggies or the centrif you see on modern vehicles. So that is a wash out
im not selling him on turbo, read anywhere you possibly can in this post im trying to sell turbo. Ive stated since post one that a maggie would best suit his needs.
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I never said a maggie can or would compete with a turbo...get off it. Quite comparing to two. If you read my post in full you would have also read "If you want all out power, TURBOS is the way to go" I simply said telling someone a maggie would add more "UMPH" is totally misleading. Everyone knows you love turbos...be at least a little open minded here.
To try to sway a person into a turbo that is just being introduced into FI is like sleeping with a porn star to loose your virginity...A little over kill I say. You're only going to get hurt in the end, or at lease the clap. Baby steps bro.
then you agree with what i said. if your only looking for little more umph then a Maggie style is the way to go But, instead you decided to argue.
i like turbos for bang for buck, if a centrif was a better bang for buck id like that
maggie style is great for a DD and setup that wants little more then NA
when you want to step up with the big leagues then you got to step up to the big toys
im also not a fan of IATs over 100*
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Wow if that isn't a one sided post. A ton of people have been making a lot of power with the new 1900 and 2300 Maggies. I totally agree if all out power is what your after I would suggest turbo hands down. But to claim "a little more UMPH" with a 2300 is a little off and missleading.
Superbrd made over 700 AWHP out of his 2300 and I am assuming Dave (usbodyguard) will too no problem.
Back to the orginaly post it sounds like you are after a little more power not beat the world power to break records. It is no secret turbos although more efficent and more capibable, require more customization, like heat sheilding, tuning, fabing ect.
If you want hassle free, complete bolt on power look into Magnacharger. From the orginaly post it sounds like that is what you are after. If you want to go bigger like others have pointed out look turbos or centrifical superchargers.
you had mentioned 700awhp from a 2300 correct? Dave had a 427 which alone should be a 500 to the wheels motor easily. to spend the money it costs on a 2300 to only acheive 700awhp id shoot myself. A stock internal 6.0 with a turbo can do 700 easily, stock internal 6.0 with a procharger will do 700 easily
i havent seen a big Rwhp from a 2300 yet, i think most ive seen is low 900s and that was a big 434ci motor. a 434 ci motor with properly sized turbo you have well over 1500+ rwhp
you mention more tuning. the tuning it takes to tune a turbo setup isnt anythign more then any other boosted setup.
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you want Zero back pressure. what you want is properly velocity and scavenging. back pressure is very bad
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here soemthing to think about. Turbos have came stock in vehicles for years and they have plenty of reliabities.
as for maintenance and up keep, every setup out there will need to be maintenanced. I almost garrenty most ppl out there over look flushign their coolant when using Dexcool around 40k, most ppl over look changing tranny fluid at 35k intervals.
also addign boost to a motor that was never intended for boost is going to require more attention to it then a motor that orignally spec'd for boost
if i wanted a little more UMPH in power and something i could slap on i would go a Maggie. If i wanted to make actual power then i sure as hell wouldnt use a maggie or its cousins
if i wanted some actual power for a pricey tag i would go centrif blower.. you get power and whine
if you want flat out power most then go turbo, turbos put out more power for less effort
also something to think about with a turbo cubic inch isnt as important but with a blower you need cubic inch to go along with the blowers to make power
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you'll spend 5x more tuning a turbo than you would a bolt on radix or tvs. Plus you don't have to have as many supporting mods with a supercharger vs. turbo to make decent power.
Supercharger all the way and don't look back. You can call me if you want to discuss it further. Pm me for my #
curious how you came up with the figure of spending 5x tuning a turbo setup
i got to hear this one,
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quik...what made you choose turbo over supercharged?
the cost vs the power is one reason
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if setup right a turbo setup has no lag what so ever. if setup wrong a Centrif blower has lag.
also remember this with any blower setup it puts stress on the thrust bearing since your applying pressure to the crank thru the crank pulley. That right there puts more stress on the motor then a turbo does. Any person can slap on a blower kit, a turbo kit has to be fabbed unless you buy a sellers kit
you can do a rear mount and be pretty cheap since you get to keep lmost of the parts you have now. With blower setup it costs you more money sine you have to upgrade the entire exhaust. centrif blower requires a decent size stall, a properly spec'd turbo can use stock stall
as for your tranny lasting that all depends on how you drive and power
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Local 206 here!
I am on the Custom/Architectual side...no hvac for me...we still make our parts...j/kLooks really good...I have been a member for 13 years...shouldn't you be at the contest in Vegas right now, or are you taking Journeyman upgrade welding classes.....
-Its nice to be able to fab your own stuff and not get ripped by some shop...but some people have $$ trees I guess
yea im taking the evening Journeyman advance classes. Im a first year that decided i wanted my certs as fast as possible. I wanted to be estabished as a welder rather then a duct hanger. In april im taking the Journeyman Tig classes, just to see what flaws i have in tig and if i can improve.
Yea i cant see paying a shop the money they get. Im not rich by no means and take more pride in doing ti myself then writing a check
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So i got bored one day and decided build a twin setup to display little of my fab abilities. Some know that im in Local 12 which is the sheet metal union and ive been in school since last year along with night classes getting my welding certifications. With having this background i wanted something i display my schooling. What better way then a bunch of tubes
heres a few pics
being this is a twin setup i wanted everythign to be as symetrical as possible
this build wasnt about how much power or how fast this setup can go. This build was a soul purpose of display. So if it runs 13s i dont care, the journey to finish is the fun part and exciting part of it.
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I would run them BigBlock head studes like Chase, those F'ers were like 1/2" thick. then skimp on the heads.
im not worried about lifting heads with this build. I also dont believe the size of the head stud is a factor in that equation. increasing size of a bolt is only going to do so much. the head is still going to distort inbetween the two studs. so you run more chance of warping a head then you do anything. ive seen builds with the stock size studs have no issues with a prepped block
i might run TTY head bolts once again. My last build i didnt lift a head and with a TTY bolt its a like a fuse. id rather have the bolts stretch then take out a set of heads
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i was hinting at he ls2 , isnt the motor in it just for mock up ?
yea the block in the truck is bare with some junk 98 heads on it just for mock up. its getting there slowly. finished up tacking one DP together, got get to finishing up the passengerside DP.
i got a lead on a set of heads just need extra cash to pick them up
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looks good, with two turbo's you dont have to worry about the heads as much.
i want good heads to help keep the cylinder pressures down. make the most power NA then add boost
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bout time you posted it up over here .
can we get a real motor in it already ?
real setup is still quite abit of money away. Unless you want to donate some parts. i need some good heads
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Still rollin' with a 4.8?
no
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isnt holtys truck on stock 65e and has been boosted for over 4 yrs now and has ran n20 his setup as well?
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I am pretty nervous about doing the 2bar sd tune myself. I have another ecm in the garage and I am going to try to do a sd tune on it. I have never messed with 2bar, but I am sure I can figure it out. If I have two ecm's one with 2bar tune one with the maf, I can always swap back to the maf in case I screw up the sd tune. I have read too many times about people frying their ecm's from switching the os back and forth. Anybody got a sd tune they want to donate for a base line?
My tubing will be silicone joined together for a short while. I am going to have all the tubing tig welded together once I get everything together.
if you have software you dont need to swap between PCMs. just save your file and set it aside then upload the SD file. If you want to go back to maf just upload the file. no need for two pcms
as for frying PCM urban legend ive never heard of that but there is alot of garbage posted on the net about what works and doesnt.
to many variances for someones file to work for yours especially being up in AK
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bov is after the intercooler. that temp bov vents means nothing
living in AK you wont have issues with SD if the tune was done right. use the adders in the program to assist your fueling in the different temps you see
meth nozzle before IAT so you can see the temp change
MAF in garbage
also id reconsider your tubing you have. the more silicone you have more chance of leaks, more chance of a blow off. if you can get away with only 2 one at tb and one at IC that will work best.
My Twin Turbo Project
in Builds
Posted · Edited by Quik (see edit history)
figured id post the latest