BlakAZss

Sold

Agreed - My truck was a smokin freaking deal. Too late - sold it today.

Matt - let me know how you come out if you do take it to the dealer. I have heard a couple of things on this issue: 1.) The foam seal around the actual door gets sticky, and that is why it gets stuck. 2.) some guy said he opened up the actuator and one of the gears had slipped on the shaft and was no longer engaged. He claimed he re-engaged the gear and all was well. 3.) there is a thread on the corvette forum somewhere where they actually take the actuators apart and 'reindex' them by changing the gear alignment by a few teeth... Corvette dudes are serious....

Yea, done the battery thing like 200343242 times now. No dice. Also tried to pull the 2 hvac fuses (same point) to no avail...

Hey guys - I am still fighting an HVAC problem, and I need some real info! History: 1.) The truck has always had a 'cluck' from some door behind the dash. Most of the time there was a cluck every 20-30 seconds or so. Usually didn't happen with the AC on vent running full blast - which is the way I normally run here in phoenix. 2.) Recently, I had the negative battery cable off. When I hooked everything back up, I turned the key to ON and let it sit for a min, then started it and let it run for 5 mins. When I turned the key to ON, I could hear the actuators going through the calibration process. Eventually, it went through the whole process, and viola! defrost vents only regardless of the controller selection. I have run the truck though several 'reset' cycles for a few weeks now, and nothing. Truck is an 03 SS with the manual HVAC controls. So, I know I have an actuator problem. The question is which one to solve problem #2 first? I really don't want to take it to the dealership. I looked under the drivers side of the dash and could see one of the actuators, but a metal brace or subframe for the dash was blocking access to the top mounting bolt, and I was unable to get any kind of tool on it. I am not even sure I am looking at the right one? So - Which actuator do I need to attack first, and how do I do it? Im not worried about the 'clunk' right now, I just want to be able to select something other than defrost. Thanks!

not interested in mine? She might get traded in this week...

Did you call them? They didn't list the parts I needed, but had them...

Hey I have a black 03 SS with 73xxx mi on it. $13.500 and I am firm on the price. I am over in phoenix, no problem delivering to CA for a serious buyer. Truck is stock except wheels and tires. http://www.silveradoss.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=56985 Tried to PM you but it must be down.

SAE Parts on Ebay hooked me up...

Yea, try disconnecting the battery for 10 mins (actually, my service adviser told me to touch the positive and neg cables together after they have been removed from the battery to discharge any 'latent current'). Then get in, close the door, turn all HVAC controls to OFF BEFORE you put the key in, then start the truck and DONT TOUCH ANYTHING for 1 minute. The doors should try to re-calibrate. I have heard it can take up to 10 drive cycles before this takes effect, so do it and then do your normal driving all day or whatever. Im not buying the fuse box thing personally, but WTF do I know... Link http://forums.pickuptrucks.com/ubbthreads....8585&page=1

Im in Chandler, I work near I10 and Ray Road, but I can meet you 1/2 way or something if you wanna check the truck out...

Just a quick bump to say I have received a new stock 6disc changer, so that shouldn't be an issue any more. Truck is still available, but maybe going to ebay or dealer auction soon!!

For some reason, I was under the impression that there was a sensor that fed the computer and a sending unit that fed the gauge which is why I was confused about this issue (since I had gauge problems and it ran bad). I replaced the sensor last night, and it fixed it.

Im assuming you disconnected the battery when you originally did the e-fans/alternator. I had my neg cable off a couple of weeks back, and then didn't drive the truck for one of those 2 weeks - but it has had plenty of cycles to re-learn.... Common Denominator?

Noticed something new on this one. When the truck is in DRIVE, the engine TEMP gauge never moves - and the truck idles @ like 1k rpm. When I put the truck in PARK after it is warmed up, the Temp gauge seems to function normally, and the truck idles fine. WTF?