BlakAZss

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Agreed - My truck was a smokin freaking deal. Too late - sold it today.

Matt - let me know how you come out if you do take it to the dealer. I have heard a couple of things on this issue: 1.) The foam seal around the actual door gets sticky, and that is why it gets stuck. 2.) some guy said he opened up the actuator and one of the gears had slipped on the shaft and was no longer engaged. He claimed he re-engaged the gear and all was well. 3.) there is a thread on the corvette forum somewhere where they actually take the actuators apart and 'reindex' them by changing the gear alignment by a few teeth... Corvette dudes are serious....

Yea, done the battery thing like 200343242 times now. No dice. Also tried to pull the 2 hvac fuses (same point) to no avail...

Hey guys - I am still fighting an HVAC problem, and I need some real info! History: 1.) The truck has always had a 'cluck' from some door behind the dash. Most of the time there was a cluck every 20-30 seconds or so. Usually didn't happen with the AC on vent running full blast - which is the way I normally run here in phoenix. 2.) Recently, I had the negative battery cable off. When I hooked everything back up, I turned the key to ON and let it sit for a min, then started it and let it run for 5 mins. When I turned the key to ON, I could hear the actuators going through the calibration process. Eventually, it went through the whole process, and viola! defrost vents only regardless of the controller selection. I have run the truck though several 'reset' cycles for a few weeks now, and nothing. Truck is an 03 SS with the manual HVAC controls. So, I know I have an actuator problem. The question is which one to solve problem #2 first? I really don't want to take it to the dealership. I looked under the drivers side of the dash and could see one of the actuators, but a metal brace or subframe for the dash was blocking access to the top mounting bolt, and I was unable to get any kind of tool on it. I am not even sure I am looking at the right one? So - Which actuator do I need to attack first, and how do I do it? Im not worried about the 'clunk' right now, I just want to be able to select something other than defrost. Thanks!

not interested in mine? She might get traded in this week...

Did you call them? They didn't list the parts I needed, but had them...

Hey I have a black 03 SS with 73xxx mi on it. $13.500 and I am firm on the price. I am over in phoenix, no problem delivering to CA for a serious buyer. Truck is stock except wheels and tires. http://www.silveradoss.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=56985 Tried to PM you but it must be down.

SAE Parts on Ebay hooked me up...

Yea, try disconnecting the battery for 10 mins (actually, my service adviser told me to touch the positive and neg cables together after they have been removed from the battery to discharge any 'latent current'). Then get in, close the door, turn all HVAC controls to OFF BEFORE you put the key in, then start the truck and DONT TOUCH ANYTHING for 1 minute. The doors should try to re-calibrate. I have heard it can take up to 10 drive cycles before this takes effect, so do it and then do your normal driving all day or whatever. Im not buying the fuse box thing personally, but WTF do I know... Link http://forums.pickuptrucks.com/ubbthreads....8585&page=1

Im in Chandler, I work near I10 and Ray Road, but I can meet you 1/2 way or something if you wanna check the truck out...

Just a quick bump to say I have received a new stock 6disc changer, so that shouldn't be an issue any more. Truck is still available, but maybe going to ebay or dealer auction soon!!

For some reason, I was under the impression that there was a sensor that fed the computer and a sending unit that fed the gauge which is why I was confused about this issue (since I had gauge problems and it ran bad). I replaced the sensor last night, and it fixed it.

Im assuming you disconnected the battery when you originally did the e-fans/alternator. I had my neg cable off a couple of weeks back, and then didn't drive the truck for one of those 2 weeks - but it has had plenty of cycles to re-learn.... Common Denominator?

Noticed something new on this one. When the truck is in DRIVE, the engine TEMP gauge never moves - and the truck idles @ like 1k rpm. When I put the truck in PARK after it is warmed up, the Temp gauge seems to function normally, and the truck idles fine. WTF?

Hey guys - Wanted to ask again about a problem I have occasionally. Happened again today, first time in 6 weeks or so. I had been driving on the freeway for about 20 mins @ 70mph. I exit the freeway, and pull up to a stoplight, and the engine is idling fast, and pulling against the brakes. Engine Temp Guage is sitting all the way to the left on 160 or whatever the lowest reading is. Drive like this for about 5 mins, turn the truck off, it sits for 5 mins, start it up again, and the temp gauge goes right to 185* or so. Truck runs fine, then it does it again - temp gauge falls off all the way to the left, truck runs like crap. Obviously I am getting faulty readings on the engine temperature, and the computer is trying to adjust accordingly. I was thinking this could be a faulty coolant sensor or maybe a big air pocket in the cooling system? Either one sound more likely? Can anyone tell me where the coolant sensor is on the truck and how to test it? Thanks!

I am 100% positive I saw 6.8m cars on CNBC. If it really is only 680k cars, then it cost every tax payer 8$, not 80. Even better.

Im just spitballing here, but I tow a boat that probably goes around 7200lbs on the trailer. The SS tows it great, but I am not sure I would want to regularly tow much more than that. The trailer ~25 feet long, tandem axle and has electronic trailer brakes. It is stable at speeds up to 75MPh. So what are the differences between our trucks? The SS probably has 80 more ftlbs of torque, and 4:10 gears front and back. Im not sure how much you really want/need to tow, but here would be my short list of mods: 1.) Big trans cooler. 2.) Change wheel size to change your effective gear ratio if needed. 3.) Good towing tires on the back. 4.) CAI/Headers/Tune. 5.) Some really good adjustable heavy duty shocks in the back or bag it. What are you looking to tow?

Works out to around 80$ per taxpayer. Not that big of deal IMHO for what we got out of the deal. Not just GM jobs, but local jobs at dealerships, and all of those cars SHOULD be stripped and parts recycled accoding to the spirit of the bill. That leaves tons of work to be done as the cars are recycled. Plus whatever marginal increases we get on emissions, not to mention that more fuel efficient cars should equal less gasoline demand. Im not saying the program was perfect, but it sure seemed like a big shot in the arm to alot of businesses that were in pretty serious trouble. Plus, obviously the incremental savings of taking people who were on unemployment and giving them jobs where they will pay taxes is too advanced for many here. Maybe 80$ is just not that important to me. Maybe it is too important to others?

Lol - you guys realized that GM just had to file for bankruptcy, right? 6.8 million new cars sold under this program. Thats a shit-ton of american jobs. Cash for clunkers wasnt about reducing pollution (nice side effect though) it was about selling cars which = jobs. Ohs Noes, 5000 1978 chrysler cordobas met an early demise. yea, like poor people have 4500$ laying around, and could afford the maintenance on most of the crap that got traded in. This is the stuff than rush and hannity wont tell you.

Yup - my bad!!! Turtle, not mothers - I think I had mothers 'back to black' on the brain. I need some because now all of my trim looks like dog crap next to the shiny black paint. I didn't do the roof yet, so I will do 1/2 and post pics to show the difference... Lol - I knew I would get flamed for no pics, but seriously - like a giant black beautiful mirror...

Did the new Mothers Black Box on my 2003 Black SSS last night, and it kicks ass!! Truck looks great!! Pics are pointless, it is like looking at a big black mirror... I did the application by hand. Best 20$ Ive spent on the truck ever.

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Try SAE parts on Ebay. I just picked up a couple of pieces at a fair price. Try calling them (google SAE parts, their phone # is on the website).