crawlinss
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Posts posted by crawlinss
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you never should have told us that you are female.
now the ogling and begging you for pix begins!!!
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if you had long tubes then it would get moving with your CAI
again shorty header are just for looks 
i agree, i got them brand new for $200, cant complain about that, i think with different y pipes theyll be more noticeable. after driving it around for a full day, there is a decent difference, especially hammering it from like 30 onto the highway it is pretty noticeable, i would def. say worth the money and aggravation once i get the trans and other bolt-ons done.
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edelbrock header install
these headers went in fairly easy, fit/finish is very good, and their warranty response is great. so far im very happy with them. no huge gain in power, but low to midrange is noticeable.
start with the hard side, the driver's side. its a bit of a pain in the butt.
disconnect neg battery cable, jack up the truck/use ramps, and remove your collector bolts, 15mm heads.
i found it easier to remove the engine covers, and remove the back 2 plug wires and plugs.
remove the heat shield (10mm), and then the header bolts (10mm).
climb back under the truck, disconnect your front u-joint, and slide your front d/s back. work the manifold out from the bottom.
install new header in the same way, making sure to change the crush ring in the y-pipe if applicable.
start with the rear bolt, and make sure you put it in straight. we had trouble with the back ones wanting to x-thread.
start the threads with the gasket through the bolt, then slide the header under the bolt/washers. install one or two more bolts into the header (new hardware is 13mm), to hold it straight, tighten them snug (not crazy tight) and install the rest of the header bolts. crank them down, i finished at 25-30 ft/lbs.
the left side y-pipe had to be massaged a little to line up but worked ok. install your new collector bolts (i used more 8.8 hardened washers as i prefer one on top and bottom.)
crank them down with 11/16 hardware, re install your u-joint install your plugs/wires, and the hard side is done!
passenger side is very simple, loosen the header, pull it out, install the new one, tighten the same way, starting with the rear, to middle, to front, then the rest of the bolts.
hope this helps someone, this turned into a project at 4 pm and ended at 3am (but we also had did brakes on a subaru, had dinner, and had to diagonose a fractured rear drivers side spark plug, find a 24 hr parts store, and drive 74 miles round trip for a new plug!!!!)
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installed the edelbrocks today, they seem ok, didnt notice a big improvement though.... the trucks a big bitch, cant really expect headers and a cold air to get it movin out
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his trucks got some money and time into it, if i were in the market i would consider it, looks good.
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if they are really stuck on there, you can buy a battery terminal puller tool, its like a small pulley puller, works great for those
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OK guys i need ur help on how to change the lights in my gauges. i have an 06 so my gauges r different from the older models, and i have searched for it but i cant find anything. i know how to change to lights in an 05 and down model but i've been told that i need to sotter(sp) them in, can someone help me out.
thnx in advance...
-Rob
DONT **** WITH IT!!!!!!
you cant fix them, and gm has a warranty fix for them, take it to the dealer!!! i tried to repair my own, and messed up 2 stepper motors in the process, theyre very very sensitive, and the dealer with fix them for free. you cant change them out to any different styles/colors, dont even try.
i had a guy off ebay fix mine, did a great job at a great price...of course 6 months later i get the letter saying gm will fix them for free. lucky me.
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let me know what you would let it go for picked up and we can work from there...im easy to get along with
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dont forget to retard the timing! i re-read your post and i dont know about the ngk's, i use ac delco.. and mine are gapped at 35
how do you retard the timing on these trucks?
do you have the part number for the plugs your recommend?
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this is the best braking truck ive ever had....out of 2 jeep xj's (no surprise there), a durango (junk) and a dakota r/t (which i would think would stop faster) the ss is the best braking ive ever had....if i think the ss is sufficient, i'd love to go for a ride in mr p's truck!!!!
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SELL THAT PIECE OF SHIT COMPUCAR KIT NOW!!!!!!
i installed one on my truck and had not one, but TWO solenoids stick open. could have been a very bad day, but i got extremely lucky.......however, i do have a 'cryogenically treated' cold air intake available!!!!
im very interested in this whole kit cash in hand LMK
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If you're looking for a sport truck, pay the extra $9785 and get a two-door SRT-10. There just isn't any practical way to make a box nearly 19 feet long and six feet tall, weighing 5023 pounds, feel nimble.
MOTORTREND CAN SUCK MY DICK!!!!
the STOCK SS handles, brakes, accelerates, and looks better than my r/t did....well....before it had the heads/cam spray
not that the dakota r/t is in the same ballpark as an srt-10, but the ss handles on/off ramps at 90mph and is awesome in the snow....how many srt-10's did i see this chicago winter
a big fat goose egg.
SS is the king.
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my friend put a cold air on his sentra spec-v, and didnt notice much of a difference. i helped him install it, and we drove it for about 20 minutes, went back to double check everything, and the intake pipe was so hot i burned my hand. i had some header wrap (pretty much the same stuff from DEI that you have up there) and we put it on there.....that made a decent bit of difference. if your engine runs hot (which mine doesnt, i hope yours doesnt either) it may help out...otherwise you should be fine w/o it. i wouldnt pay for a whole kit though, ive got enough for a cold air i'd sell you much cheaper if you want.
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the rears are bigger to house the parking brake.
i, too, am curious how this would work out. i just posted up a discussion about upgrading rotor size, im not against it, im against the $1500 per axle!!!!
for $400 an axle, it might be nice though...
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whats up guys... its really late on a saturday night, im slightly buzzed and feeling guilty that i dont contribute as much as i did on the r/t forums. so i want to start a discussion regarding brakes. last weekend i changed all rotors/pads. i was disgusted to find out that my left rear backing plate was almost entirely rusted out, i ended up trimming the rusted section away as it wasnt doing much anyway. that disgusts me that after 4 years of high maintenance and every-week washes, i'd have pieces rusting away on this truck. that notwithstanding, i got the brake job done, and they feel great.
the question i have is this...
for your average street-high-performance truck, why do we all spend huge money on big-brake systems except for looks?? the stock brake system is more than enough to lock up the ABS system, and with the huge contact patch our tires put to the ground, you can STILL get them to lock up if you wanted to. even though our brakes are smallish when you take into account how heavy the ss is (has anyone weighed an awd ss btw??) but i got 67k of hard use out of my brakes, the rears were totally neglected by the previous owner, and they still worked ok right until i removed them. for road-race apps i can see using baers or wilwoods, but whats the point for a daily driver?
post up your opinions, im very curious what everyone has to say!
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ok so its pouring rain, i cant find my haynes manual, and i need to finish this thing tonight. got the fronts no problem, how do i release the parking brake cable to let the rotor come off???? i cant get it to come out and i dont want to just hammer it off...i think that might be the hack way out. please please please help........post up!!!!
nevermind, i figured it out. the stupid parking brake shoe broke loose and was keeping me from pulling the rotor off.
moderators feel free to delete.
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ok so its pouring rain, i cant find my haynes manual, and i need to finish this thing tonight. got the fronts no problem, how do i release the parking brake cable to let the rotor come off???? i cant get it to come out and i dont want to just hammer it off...i think that might be the hack way out. please please please help........post up!!!!
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whats up guys.. brakes are at the end of their life, and need replacement. i want to do the 'mild' upgrades IE hawk or other performance pads, powerslot (or other) performance rotors, as just stock premium brake rotors/pads for four corners will cost me about $450.
i need suggestions and/or part numbers and most importantly, vendors.
any help appreciated!!!
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heres the deal, ive got 2 alloy 20"s in good shape, probably a 6-7 out of 10.
ive got a 3rd alloy 20" in good cosmetic shape, but with a very slight bend in the inner lip. did not shake, or lose any air, didnt even notice it was bent until i switched to the chrome wheels.
ive got a 4th alloy wheel with a very serious crack on the inner lip. no material missing, maybe its fixeable, maybe its not.
all come with center caps, email [email protected] with WHEEL PIX and ill send you the best pix ive got.
the first offer that isnt a total lowball offer takes these things, i need them gone.
pickup preferred but will ship for $200 for the set in the lower 48... wheels located southside of chicago.
john
773-206-1968
lets make something happen, seriously very few offers will offend me. i could do alright recycling these damn things lol
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heres the deal, ive got 2 alloy 20"s in good shape, probably a 6-7 out of 10.
ive got a 3rd alloy 20" in good cosmetic shape, but with a very slight bend in the inner lip. did not shake, or lose any air, didnt even notice it was bent until i switched to the chrome wheels.
ive got a 4th alloy wheel with a very serious crack on the inner lip. no material missing, maybe its fixeable, maybe its not.
all come with center caps, email [email protected] with WHEEL PIX and ill send you the best pix ive got.
the first offer that isnt a total lowball offer takes these things, i need them gone.
pickup preferred but will ship for $200 for the set in the lower 48... wheels located southside of chicago.
john
773-206-1968
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i just got the subthump shallow dual 10" box, installed it, its very very nice, with the exception of the way the carpet is stapled at the bottom.... however, no one will ever see it unless youre showing off your speakers, but for what you pay for the box its a definite good buy
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When you're wired for 4-8 ohms for the subs ... you should get 4, or 2 or 1 ohms resistance, if you wired correctly. If your subs rated 4-8 (dual voice), then wire your subs 2-4. For the most part, wiring a single dual voice coil sub is like wiring 2 subs in one. 2 voice coils = twice the resistance, so a 4 ohm circuit should really measure 1 ohm of resistance. (1 ohm is twice as much as 4. 4x2 = 1 ... weird math, I know. But, google ohms law and it'll make sense, or check it out here)
i think that might be part of my problem ive got something wired wrong. im pretty familiar with ohms law, however i really never deal with the wattage part of the equation, at least in an audio sense. i dont understand how you say 1 ohm of resistance is twice as much as 4?? if it takes one amp to push one ohm of resistance per ohms law, how could one ohm be twice as much as four? im not being a dick, im just seriously confused with this system, ive never had this much trouble. the way you say to have the subs wired is how?? really quick heres what ive got and how its wired, ive got
a 4 channel amp. ive got it set up so its 2 channels bridged, positive on channel one negative on channel two, positive on three, negative on four....thats set up correctly for bridged out put, right? either that or it could be +1 -3 +2 -4, im not sure but as far as the amp is concerned i have it set up per their instructions. now on the subs, ive got a set of +/- on either side of the sub, with a jumper across from one positive to the other negative, then out of the amp ive got a positive to the remaining positive, and a negative to the remaining negative. is this correct? this is confusing the shit out of me, i could put up pix if that might help.
ALSO..........what is the benefit of dvc???
ALSO......... should i stuff my box?? LOL that sounds diirrrrty
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well i dont know what you mean by everything "in phase", but i do know i have the polarity correct. i did not use harness, they are soldered/shrink wrapped the way ive always done installs, which IMO is better than plugs. anyway, i ohmed them out and yes, the bose are 2 ohm the infinitys are 4 ohms, which explains a lot. im probably going to put the stock speaker back in there as the earthquake speakers i have are 4 ohm as well.
heres another situation im having... so i got my new subthump box (which for the price is very nice), i got the shallow one with the amp rack, which is essentially 2 truck boxes with a board attaching them, but contoured to the floor etc etc. ive got a volfenhag 7170 amp with 2 sets of rca's in, so i ran 2 sets of rca's from the pac24 unit (stock head unit BTW), one into the "front" one into the "rear" and started tuning. ive got 2 big ass jl audio 10"s with dual voice coils, theyre older but in very good conditon. anyway, so that being said, i started tuning and i cant get them to sound good. i think part of the problem is that the amp gives me between 4-8 ohms tolerance for subs, and when i have it wired for dual voice coils that puts me at like 12 ohms. so i disconnected the one side and just wired it pos/neg, which should put the sub at 6 ohms, and noticed no change in sound. i cant get any real bottom end out of this system, it sounds SORT of good, but not how it should, this amp is 400x2 bridged....that should be more than plenty to shake my truck apart but its got NO low end. help?
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im on the southside....chrome ss wheels with good tires mounted/dynamic balanced with tape weights. do you have pix of the rims on the truck?
Stock Chrome Center Cap For Sss
in For Sale/ Wanted
Posted
ive got one. $15?