brobradh77

That brings back memories of when we used to do that at the grocery store I used to work at in highschool till the cops came and shut us down.

sorry kinda long but not sure how link this from microsoft word but here is a lecture I found on here: PREP: If this is your first time using DER or any acrylic based polish/sealer you need to get rid of all your old waxes. Standard car wax is usually carnuba or silicone based and hinders the finish quality of the acrylics if not removed first. Using a heavy mixture of dishsoap (Dawn works well) and warm-hot water give your paint a complete scrub down. I recommend a terrycloth or microfiber mit. Sponges are a big mistake because they trap particles in thier surface that you will drag around your painted surface. Overtime spounges will cause alot of small surface scratches. Rinse your mit frequently to keep dirt and other particles from creating surface scratches. Either rinse with the hose or keep a sepeate bucket full of clean water handy. CLAY SANDING: After its been completely washed pull the truck into a shadey spot. DO NOT DRY IT YET! Before starting this run the back of your fingers over a spot on the paint to get a feel... remember this for later... I'll explain why at the end. Simply use your DER Clay Stuff & DER Lube Stuff on all painted surfaces and glass. Its also a good idea to hit the headlights, tailights, and glass to remove any water spots, baked on bug guts, etc. Lightly mist the lube onto the surface and work small areas w/ the claybar. Your claybar should be flexible but not sticky/tacky... if its sticking to the paint its either too hot or you're not using enough lube. The bar should be no bigger than 3 fingers accross and should slide fairly easily accross the surface. Spend extra time going over the hood and other horizontal surfaces. These parts get the most punishment from rain and sun so going over them a couple of times isn't a bad idea. Clay is NON-ABRASIVE so you don't have to worry about it damaging the paint, but occasionally fold it into itself and stretch it back out again to move the surface impurities from the paint into the clay... otherwise your just dragging the crap all over the paint. Its normal to get a brownish liquid... the clay is pulling up stuff a normal washing never would. Make sure to look at the clay and note the amount of stuff coming off your paint... THIS IS WHY CLAYBARS ARE THE DETAILERS SECRET!!! Concentrate on one area at a time and don't get too far ahead of yourself. The claybar is small and theres alot of areas to hit so the more methodical and organized you are the faster it will go. If you drop your claybar THROW IT AWAY! Just like it picks up small particles from your paint, it will grab stuff off of the ground and this will make the clay more like a sanding block than a surface cleaner. DON'T DROP THE CLAY PREP PART II: After the claying is done get a new bucket of water going, but this time use DER car shampoo. If you're reusing the same mit as the first wash make sure its completely rinsed out and free of dishsoap. Wash the entire truck and make sure to get any residue left behind by the claybar. As with any detailing job start at the top and work your way down. Wash your wheels and tires w/ a seperate rag, spongue, or mit to avoid contaminating your freshly clayed paint w/ road gunk. After this wash you can dry the entire vehicle. I recommend 100% cotton terry-towels, but any cotton towel will do just fine. Be meticulous, dry everything, door jams, under the hood.... don't get lazy on me now! POLISHING: Bust out the red bottle of DER Real Stuff. For you guys with black paint it might be a good idea to use DER Tuff Stuff in place of DER Real, but its not necessary. Using a terrycloth applicator pad apply a coat of DER Real Stuff to all the painted surfaces. USE SPARINGLY. This stuff is concentrated and a little bit goes a long ways so a thin skim coat is good for most of the surfaces, but use a little more in areas with alot of swirl marks or surface scratches. This step is a polish so if you have a particularly bad spot multiple applications to those spots may be helpful. Once dryed to a haze use a 100% cotton baby diaper folded into 4ths to remove like you would any wax. An orbital buffer can be used, but its not necessary. Be sure to shake out and rotate the surface of the diaper frequently. This polish has a tendency to clog up a cloth so make sure its dry and you're using all the surfaces of the diaper. Inspect the paint for any sever surface scratches and repeat the polishing steps on those spots as many times as desired. 2-3 times should remove even tough scratches. SEALING: Time for the "BLING" Using a slightly damp terrycloth applicator apply the blue bottle of DER Shiney Stuff. Be sure to use a NEW applicator... do not reuse the one from the polishing step. DER Shiney is extremely liquid so be carful not to spill. A little goes a long ways and this coat only needs to be very thin. Apply to the entire painted surface and even the glass, headlights, and taillights. Because its acrylic it bonds w/ plastic and paint to create a protective glossy topcoat that makes it hard for anything to stick to. Remove this coat with a microfiber towel ONLY, other types of clothes will not do as good. Make sure to shake out the microfiber repeatedly while on this step. The sealer creates alot of acrylic dust and the more often you shake out the microfiber the better you'll be. Repeat this step as much as desired. DER Shiney dries quick so this step doesn't take long... the more coats the shinier it'll be when your done. Because this step creates alot of acrylic dust its a good idea to go over the truck once w/ a car duster when your done or a fresh microfiber towel. STEP BACK AND ADMIRE: Thats it! You're done! REMEMBER WHEN I TOLD YOU TO FEEL THE PAINT BEFORE CLAYBARING?: Using the back of your fingers gently run them accross the surface of the paint and you'll appreciate how smooth the paint is compared to when you started. From this point forward claying is only necessary every 3-5 months or so. Each time you wash apply a fresh coat of DER Shiney to keep up the gloss and if the paint gets bad use a coat of DER Real Stuff before the DER Shiney. For touchups between washes a microfiber towel and a light sprits of DER Mist Stuff works well. Hint: DER Mist and DER Lube are actually the same so you don't need to buy both Hope this helps guys... and if you do it right your truck should look this good too

Welcome to the site

To answer your question if you listen to mainly rock as I do you really want to stick with 10's because 10's respond a lot quicker than 12's which is what you ant because rock has rapid bass. The only difference in 10's and 12's are 12 will hit a litle deeeper but not any harder and will only be noticable if you listen to rap.

damn I bet you shit pancakes now

damn they are just giving that house away.

I liked the 2 chick s there in the back of that truck in the bikinis

he he he sux to be him

lol damn asians.. finance must pay well from the job market around here just a bachlor in mechanical engineering starts any where from 90-120k in like Dallas and like 60-70k in small cities.

Really I guess I am white and nerdy..lol I enjoyed those classes and I have decided to add math as my minor because all I lack is 1 class so I guess I will take linear algebra I am sure as an engineer I could find that useful since I just got out of differential equations and laplace transforms. Are you a mechanical engineer?

Its cool about the name calling I figured you just needed a hug today and didnt get one . I guess it is a good thing I am a mechanical engineering major and not an aerospace engineering major Anyway I appreciate reading your takes on this it has been very informative and hey as an engineer you learn somthing new every day.

Your right after reading that I dont even know why planes have wings since you obviously dont need them to fly just turbines. Maybe he didnt understand what I was telling him who knows he seemed to have a grasp when he stated the question back to me. But he made one thing clear yes the turbines provide the force/speed to propel the plane thru the air and down the runway but the wing design is what gets it off the gound. So please we may not all be as brilliant as you but you have no right to be calling anyone a fool. It was just an answer to a question that we all have different opinions about no need in name calling.

No one said anything about wind. It only states that it's on a treadmill there for it will take off and no one said anything about the wings being different. This is a conventional plane we are talking about here. So yes it will take off! <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Right I know there was nothing menntioned about wind. I was stating that he told me unless there is that high amount of head wind it wont lift off due to the plane is basically just sitting still. Second as far as wings go all wings for any plane from conventional to commercial are all designed to do the same thing and lift the plane. They work on the principle of pressure under the wind is great enough for lift. He explained all this better but he did do some engineering research in aeronautics.

NOPE!!!!! and I hope she don't ask to drive again <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Just tell her NO.. A man and his truck are sacred oh yeah welcome to the site

Was your rim made of steel? <{POST_SNAPBACK}> yeah it was chrome 17's back in the day where only the big pimpers had 17's and you didnt see 20's unless the Dallas Cowboys where in town.

I had a bent wheel once and I took it to the tire company here and they VERY carefully put a rag and a wrench on it and slowly applied force to it to bend it back without breaking the wheel. It turned out good and I couldnt notice it and the wheel didnt wobble down the road at all.

I talked to one of my engineering teachers about this problem today. He said the plane will not take of unless the wind conditions are right. He said the turbins give the power for take off and that doesnt depend on wheel speed BUT the design of the wing is what makes a plane able to lift off. It is designed for the pressure on the bottom of the wing to be greater than on top of the wing which can be adjusted by the rutters. Unless that pressure on the bottom gets to that point from the resistance of the air flowing against it it will never be able to take off unless the headwind is strong enough to reach the point needed for lift off.

I was curious if anyone has any experience with Fuddle racing torque converters and can fill me in on if they are any good. Thanks

You got any pics? <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Sorry not yet I am waiting for my shopman bowtie to get here any day now then I will take some pics. Just be careful when you cut it I am sure others have a btter idea on how to do it than me but I used my sawsall god I love that thing . I cut through it like butter but I didnt think about putting a towel or something on the ground first before I started and the vibration of the saw caused me to scuff up my liscense plate holder . The instructions say 3/4" but I found I had to trim a little more off. Just trial and error and take a little bit off at a time.

Yeah I just installed my bolt over billet grill from stylin concepts and I had to trim about 3/4 -1" off the bottom to be able to remount it to my bumber.

pcm4less told me with 92/93 octane fuel on a stock truck they are getting over 30 hp and on 87 they are getting around 20 hp.

I wish I could do that..lol I would never leave the house

I am going to reason with it and say no. The plane is acting as if on a treadmill. Yes it can reach the speeds needed for take off but the resistance from the air needed for the wings to lift the plane off the ground is non existance due to the plane is just idiling in one spot. Thats my .02

welcome to the site