SRT10KLLR
-
Posts
278 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Store
Posts posted by SRT10KLLR
-
-
Would that one be the Trick Performance one? I was just about to buy that one. They used to make an aluminum one but now they have a plastic unit that is a little less money.If you are talking about the curved support that mounts on the top of the fender and curves to the top of the firewall no. There is another setup out there that keeps that unneeded support but you have to drill holes in the fender and firewall. Sorry I hate drilling holes in things that dont need holes. The one that keeps the brace is also a pain in the ass to get to the lid. I had one of those thats how I know and I turned around and sold it. I built my stand alone then later built 2BFAST system because we wanted a more functional and nicer looking system. The brace is not even needed as the diesel trucks did not have them from the factory they had the included battery tray which houses the second battery. The fitting I'm including replaces your existing -4 fuel solenoid fitting and makes it a -6 so you have to just un screw the fitting and screw in the larger fitting into the fuel solenoid.
If you made it less tall would the curved support fit? Also, could you make one with the FPR against the firewall instead of on the side? Looking at pics it seems as though it could be done since the firewall comes in a little a couple of inches from the top.
I would be interested in this one until you could build the other tank and then sell this one. It just needs to hold enough fuel for about 4 hits because on a 200 shot that as all the runs you can get on a 10lb bottle anyways. I could add more fuel when switching bottles.
-
Will the support that runs from the firewall to the fender still work? Also, can the line be changed to a -4 since my fuel solenoid comes that way?I built this back over a year ago for a project of mine and sold the truck to a friend.. It has been sitting in a box while he was in SC on Base. it has been mounted in the truck for test fit only then removed. No fuel in it or was it ever wired up.
Specs
Tank fits in the corner of the passenger side fender fits 99-07 classic trucks
Aeromotive FPR
XRP Swivel fittings
Earls Pro 350 Hose
Summit swirl finish fuel pressure gauge
Diesel battery tray, hold down and bolt
Walbro 255 fuel pump
every other fitting is earls and is made to use a fuel pressure safety switch on the back side Tee off of the Fuel pressure gauge.
Pics of the tank in the truck test fitting everything.
Now the tank is painted a satin finish using ceramic paint.
This is how the tank sits now and I will include the correct fitting (-6AN) to use this with your fuel solenoid and you can look at the filter sock it is new if it had fuel in it the sock would be yellow.
The tank is not your run of the mill Stand alone it is built using high end parts cost was over what I'm asking and I have several hours in making this thing.
Price is 650.00 FIRM includes shipping in the lower 48 and fully insured for 800.00 which would be replacement value. Paypal accepted but send as a gift or cover the fee.
Trying to up the spray to 200 so this would make it a lot easier.
-
It is normal for the a/f to go into the 18-19 when you let off as there is no load on the engine. It is probably just your DFCO kicking in.
-
On a NA aplication you will not gain very much but since you are blown you can definitely take advantage of it. Most meth kits come with some sort of hobbs switch that will activate the spray only at 0 vacuum or at 1, 2, 3 etc PSI. That way it will not be used during normal driving.Im also looking at getting a meth/water injection....My list of mods are in my sig. I have a question. I don't want to spray all the time and only want spray at certain rpms like when I stomp on it and the tq converter kicks at 3000 and spraying between 3000-4000rpms. So my question is do I need a new tune for meth/water. I don't really want a high octane tune since most my driving is just cruising and occasionally clearing the pipes. Race fuel is hard to find and expensive so I don't want a high octane tune all the time and I don't want it spraying all the time either while running on just premium fuel, only when I stomp on it and bring to the track is when i want the high octane.... I don't plan on running any more boost than my 3" pulley. Just want the higher octane and cooling at higher rpms. Also my heads are milled so my compression is higher than stock so the higher octane would be nice. I really don't want to wreck anything.
Sorry if this is a dumb question. I just don't know much about alternative fuels...
Also how safe is this and will it make a big difference for my setup in my sig..... thanks
-
When I first had it tuned I was like wtf why am I down on power and then my times were not good either but the engine was not built for all out NA but for boost. I have talked to Casey a couple of times and he told me he was running the same times as me before he put the turbo on.i give you props on one thing , you have your 408 running consistant for a long time and thats hard with a built motor , but man upgrade your dam pump and no more excuse's .
you have a scsb with a 408 and nitrous , 13's is sad . people with ecsb are running that with a 5.3 w a cam . we know you can do it but just havent seen it yet man . get a pump and tune it for a 200 shot and have some real fun.
Any way, Less said his buddy has a 6.0 with a 150 shot on the stock pump so I am going to turn it up like that until my fuel pressure drops. If I can get similar gains from every 50 shot then I should be very close to the high 11's on a 200 shot. I know it gets progressively harder to go faster the lower your ET though so we will see.
Did you do any filming?
-
I went to Fontana yesterday to make some runs and hopefully make some nitrous runs too. I was finally able to use the juice. Someone at the tack lent me there tool to remove the Schrader valve from the fuel rail so I could get fuel to the solenoid. I just had jets in there for a 50 shot since I am not tuned for nitrous and did not have a wideband hooked up.
I finally got it going Chase. BTW, did you happen to take your video camera? Hopefully Reynaldo can help dial me in for a bigger shot for next time. Then finally the turbo after that. I am trying to sell me two GT-76's to get one big turbo instead because my piping was designed fir only one turbo.
Here are my times.
Worked out really well as I was able to bring my times down by 1/2 a second with a 50 shot.
-
I just saw a post on LS1 from a member there selling his T-70's for $500 each. For that price you could buy both in case you ever build the engine and still come out on top.
http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/parts-classifieds/1418463-2-mp-turbos-sale.html
-
Cancel that order and get my STS kit instead. You can save 1K even with an upgraded T-70 MP turbo.
I have a brand new STS kit I could sell you if you are interested. Will let it go for $2200 without the turbo. You can pick up a Master Power turbo for $500. I do have the turbo that came in the kit but I upgraded it from the 60-1 to the GT-76 so it is probably too big for your application. I have it for sale by itself for $1200 on PT. The kit I have is for the reg cab but I have an extra pipe to make it fit yours.
-
Twin HTA 3586R's ball bearing turbos with a Tial turbine housing would be perfect. They are similar to what Chase is running but bigger with billet compressor wheel and a stainless steel turbine housing.
I have a guy near Superior that is going to be building me a twin top/front mount for a nnbs truck. He will also be making my setup if I don't sell my GT-76 turbos. My Trick kit was designed for a single but I have to turbos.
-
I have a brand new STS kit I could sell you if you are interested. Will let it go for $2200 without the turbo. You can pick up a Master Power turbo for $500. I do have the turbo that came in the kit but I upgraded it from the 60-1 to the GT-76 so it is probably too big for your application. I have it for sale by itself for $1200 on PT. The kit I have is for the reg cab but I have an extra pipe to make it fit yours.
-
You are looking for these?ive had great luck with the motrons / sieman deka 60lbers . havent used the re-done stocks to 60's but have heard good things.
ive been trying to find info on where to get these adaptor so you can use the stock harness to the ev-1 type plug for the larger injectors
this guy had some but couldnt remember where he got them
I have only sen them in EV1(minitimer / LS1) to EV6(USCAR / LS3) not for our Multech II trucks.
I have seen some of the specs and have been using them for about three years without any issues. I just popped them in and changed the IFR. No other changes to the tune like min/max pulse width, battery offset etc. needed. Also, no adapters, crimping, soldering, spacers etc. needed either.Correct me if I am wrong but from a tuning perspective I have yet to see a FULL spec sheet on the plug and play "60" # injectors. The Siemens 60's have been fully mapped with correct voltage offsets and the like. If I were to do the 60's, I would stick to the Siemens and splice your harnesses with the MSD connectors.
-
That is referencing the fuel pressure they were rated at. 3 bar is 43.5 PSI(what most aftermarket injectors are rated at) and 4 bar is 58 PSI(what our trucks run at).i have never heard of a 3or4 bar injector???? maybe a map sensor :dunno:
If the price is the same then get 60lb/hr injectors that are rated at 3 bar as they would flow more(about 70) in your truck.
-
Good runs! I went there a couple weeks ago after not going for a while.
-
I have been reading a lot about nitrous over on ls1 and everyone says not to use the TR6's.I was thinking of 100 shot, nitrious outlet has a new type of plate for theses trucks. I think I need tr66 plugs
The BR6EF is a better plug to use over a TR6 because it has non projected tip and is the same heat range. If you are going to spray 100 or more you may want to go to the BR7EF's.
BTW, I have a Nitrous Outlet truck specific plate kit that I will sell you if interested.
-
Intake sold on PT but the heads and plate are still available.
-
Here are pics of the Intake.
-
For those that requested pics here are some of the heads and nitrous plate.
Here are pics if the heads before the were installed.
Here is a pic of the nitrous plate. It is the polished one on the left.
I will try and get a pic of the intake tomorrow.
-
Sale pending on the WCCH L92 heads. The LS2 intake and nitrous plate still available. I might also have the stock un-ported L99(2010 Camaro) heads available once the new ones go on.
-
I am selling some Stage 2 heads ported by Richard from West Coast Cylinder Heads. They are complete with .650 lift patriot dual springs, REV valves and rockers. You can get more info on the heads here: http://www.proheads.com/WCCH%20L92.html
Asking $1200 plus shipping.
I also have a LS2 intake from a SSR for $150 plus shipping
And a Nitrous Outlet 90mm plate for $150 plus shipping.
-
I love my truck
I'm your Huckleberry. I will be going to Fontana this Saturday and hoping it does not get rained out like on Oct 30th. If not then Dec4th is the next(last for 2010) race day.But it's not. That's like saying if my truck had a 500 hp V-10 I would be faster than a SRT-10. You drive what you bought and go from there. I wish you were closer so I could see just how much you would get me by.
I raced a L a couple months ago and got him but he was coming strong at the end. The guy who did the nitrous install on the Black Hemi had a '04 L that went 13.8 bone stock in the summer heat here in Cali. My friend also shipped gave me his L to mod for him. I added a 4lb pulley and nitrous and had it tuned by Swanson. I went 13.4-13.5 with the pulley and tune on Nitto NT555R's on the stock 18" wheels and 12.7 with a 75 shot. That was in the summer at CA Speedway too.
I like all trucks and cars not just Chevy. And I race anything that wants to race me win, loose or draw. In fact last time out at Fontana I lost to a modded Harley Davidson. I was looking down at the gauges to try and stall it a bit(1500) and the light turned Green. I never had a chance, lol. His RT was .064 and mine was .657 and his time was 13.39 to my 13.56. Win some. Loose some.
Even if you are a 11 sec truck I will race because I just like to have fun. But if you are that fast give me a rematch after the turbo goes on.
Oh BTW, did I say that "I love my truck".
P.S. I just sold my 500hp SRT-10 truck.
-
Last time me and Art where at the track together he ran his best of 13.4 and I ran a 13.5. That was before his recent monster TC mod so he probably would get me.ill come out and watch . scared to run the dmax and break it . i bet it has a 15 in it.
you guys should race art i think he has you pretty easy .
-
I'm your Huckleberry. I will be going for sure. Hope it doesn't rain because the temps should be good for racing.
Reynaldo and Juan installed the Truetrac in my truck so I have to go try it out. Should have put some 4.10's or 4.56's while it was apart.
-
I want to see if they will fit the step side. If they do I want it. I called you and left you a message to call me back.
-
Like the other have said get a Detroit Truetrac. I bought mine from Rons Machining Service and had it installed by a member here.
You can see a video of how it works on my truck here:
Best nitrous kit
in Forced Induction and Nitrous
Posted
Nitrous Outlet plate kit ftw.