Big O Posted June 11, 2005 Report Share Posted June 11, 2005 Alright so I have done my own stereos since I was 15 ( with the help and tutor of my older brother ). Most of my old vehicles were just that ... old. So i had no problem tearing them apart and doing the whole wire harness aftermarket install. Well with the SS I decided that I had better leave this up to the PRO's and pay someone to install the wiring for my amps. Big mistake. So I take my truck in for the install and remind them that it has the BOSE system ( hint towards using the PAC adapter to counter the bass cut outs BOSE is famous for ). He reply's one truck is just like another. Ok I have known this installer for a long time and he is really good. I come back to check on my truck and some kid is running wires and tells me my amp is no good. I picked up the amp and it is fried ... I can still smell the smoke rolling out the amp. I was pissed but since it was used I gave them the benefit of the doubt. Ran home got my other amp and took off. The bill ended up being 200 bucks and the bass cuts out when I crank it and at high speeds. So tonight I rip apart the dash and come to find this And connected to that is a Stinger LOC. If they were going to use a line converter why the hell run it from behind the deck, pull it from the back and save some cable. Talk about pissed off!!!! I have always believed that scotch locks are for amature hour ... no self respecting installer would touch this stuff. Anyone on here know any different? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
misterp Posted June 11, 2005 Report Share Posted June 11, 2005 Yeah BigO that's pretty 'ranch'. Mr. P. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j4nash Posted June 11, 2005 Report Share Posted June 11, 2005 that what you get when you have some audio place do it for you. I never have like anythning that a audion shop has done for me. so i always do it myself. pluse it is not that hard anyway. take the time and do it right. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buyfire Posted June 11, 2005 Report Share Posted June 11, 2005 i smell a refund in your near future. i've got you beat though. the last time i had a "pro" install done i ended up with a power wire for my alarm wrapped through and around the knuckle in my steering column to take up slack wire. probably would have saved time just cutting the excess wire. you can imagine what happened the first time i made a lock-to-lock turn. i'd be taking that back for sure and making them do the install right. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
d_a_n_payne Posted June 11, 2005 Report Share Posted June 11, 2005 Sorry, off the subject, but where did you get the chrome nobs????? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big O Posted June 11, 2005 Author Report Share Posted June 11, 2005 billet aluminum knobs came from ebay. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CraigW Posted June 12, 2005 Report Share Posted June 12, 2005 You know it bad when you have to babysit a professional, but like you said some KID(probably in high school yet) I have seen my share of crap installs from my friends vehicle and I end up fixing it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fast4popper Posted June 14, 2005 Report Share Posted June 14, 2005 this topics is about to get heated after my post, ( I think) on to your install that you posted pics of. first off there is nothing wrong with the LOC that is in your truck, yes the PAC piece works in the rear of the truck and gets signal back there. it is the same signal as the one if front of your truck. it is B4 the BOSE amp. the Pac piece that you speak of is just an LOC with a harness to connect easily. as for getting signal back there behind the radio, wire is cheep and it is WAY easier for us as installers to get you dash apart than your center console, also he had to get a remote turn on lead for your amp somewhere, behind the deck is the best place. If you wanted the PAC piece you should have told him, he cant read your mind, communication is key in life. No on to them "dreaded" scotch locks, actually they are T-taps. I ask you what is wrong with them? they are only getting signal and this signal is very very small in current, they do not have to carry large amount of electricity, just signal. sure it looks tacky behind your dash but other than you and the installer, no one else will see them, they work and they are cheep and easy. now I would NEVER use them on anything that needs to carry current but in this application there is nothing wrong. if you wanted them soldered you should have told him so. the only thing that I see wrong with this install is the home audio wire that he has run. and really that works too but just seems cheesy to use in a car install. check this out: your bill was 200 bucks. lets break it down: their way your way 55$ for an amp install 55 for an amp install 20 for RCA cable (basic) 20 for RCA cable 55+ for power wire (size dependant) 55+ for power wire 40 for an LOC 120 for the PAC interface 15 for install of LOC 60 for install of PAC (hourly rate console dis assy) 10 various shop supplies and fees 10 shop supplies and fees total 195$ plus tax 30 to do it your way with solder etc $350. I think you got away cheep, but now in the end you are frustrated and ticked off. this is why communication is key, DO NOT go into that shop hot headed and demanding things. go in nice and tell them what you see and what you thought that you were getting for your cash. obviously it is not what you got. give them a chance to make it right ( and right in this case it they way you want it) I doubt that you will get any cash back as I would not offer it to you. I would look at your truck and fix the cutting out problem of the bass but that is all I would do. Also I would have told you the price in advance and asked if you had any questions so that there was no question about the service you expected. I know that this will tick some of you off, but remember not everyone can work on cars and we are here to make a living too. all of my installers are NOT high school kids they are all over 24 yrs old and have wifes and kids tryin to make their mortgage just like we are. It is NOT easy to keep up with the factory side of things and interface properly with all the new things that are ALWAYS changing. this profession is WAY under appreciated. it is easy to talk about this and that and tell us how to do our job but we dont come to your work and tell you the way that we think it should be done. give this shop a break, yes some things arent up to your standards but their is nothing wrong with what they used in your truck. next time tell them what you want used and ask them alot of questions, ex: solder, loom, PAC or LOC? I would let them make this right for you and what you wanted but I in no way think you paid too much, nor do i think they did you wrong EXCEPT that they let it go with the subs cutting out. no as I said this will get some people worked up i am sure. pleae flame me if you need to, I am just making simple statements and showing the facts, i am in NO WAY yelling or arqueing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big O Posted June 14, 2005 Author Report Share Posted June 14, 2005 this topics is about to get heated after my post, ( I think) on to your install that you posted pics of. first off there is nothing wrong with the LOC that is in your truck, yes the PAC piece works in the rear of the truck and gets signal back there. it is the same signal as the one if front of your truck. it is B4 the BOSE amp. the Pac piece that you speak of is just an LOC with a harness to connect easily. as for getting signal back there behind the radio, wire is cheep and it is WAY easier for us as installers to get you dash apart than your center console, also he had to get a remote turn on lead for your amp somewhere, behind the deck is the best place. If you wanted the PAC piece you should have told him, he cant read your mind, communication is key in life. No on to them "dreaded" scotch locks, actually they are T-taps. I ask you what is wrong with them? they are only getting signal and this signal is very very small in current, they do not have to carry large amount of electricity, just signal. sure it looks tacky behind your dash but other than you and the installer, no one else will see them, they work and they are cheep and easy. now I would NEVER use them on anything that needs to carry current but in this application there is nothing wrong. if you wanted them soldered you should have told him so. the only thing that I see wrong with this install is the home audio wire that he has run. and really that works too but just seems cheesy to use in a car install. check this out: your bill was 200 bucks. lets break it down: their way your way 55$ for an amp install 55 for an amp install 20 for RCA cable (basic) 20 for RCA cable 55+ for power wire (size dependant) 55+ for power wire 40 for an LOC 120 for the PAC interface 15 for install of LOC 60 for install of PAC (hourly rate console dis assy) 10 various shop supplies and fees 10 shop supplies and fees total 195$ plus tax 30 to do it your way with solder etc $350. I think you got away cheep, but now in the end you are frustrated and ticked off. this is why communication is key, DO NOT go into that shop hot headed and demanding things. go in nice and tell them what you see and what you thought that you were getting for your cash. obviously it is not what you got. give them a chance to make it right ( and right in this case it they way you want it) I doubt that you will get any cash back as I would not offer it to you. I would look at your truck and fix the cutting out problem of the bass but that is all I would do. Also I would have told you the price in advance and asked if you had any questions so that there was no question about the service you expected. I know that this will tick some of you off, but remember not everyone can work on cars and we are here to make a living too. all of my installers are NOT high school kids they are all over 24 yrs old and have wifes and kids tryin to make their mortgage just like we are. It is NOT easy to keep up with the factory side of things and interface properly with all the new things that are ALWAYS changing. this profession is WAY under appreciated. it is easy to talk about this and that and tell us how to do our job but we dont come to your work and tell you the way that we think it should be done. give this shop a break, yes some things arent up to your standards but their is nothing wrong with what they used in your truck. next time tell them what you want used and ask them alot of questions, ex: solder, loom, PAC or LOC? I would let them make this right for you and what you wanted but I in no way think you paid too much, nor do i think they did you wrong EXCEPT that they let it go with the subs cutting out. no as I said this will get some people worked up i am sure. pleae flame me if you need to, I am just making simple statements and showing the facts, i am in NO WAY yelling or arqueing. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> You low down dirty son of a b*.... lol ... just kidding ... Your way of approaching this and mine are very similar. Before they ever saw my truck I sat down (followed him around) with the owner and told him what I was expecting ... and why I was bringing it to them and not doing it myself like my previous builds. This guy also runs the local Bass Quake competitions and I always did my own systems for those, so he was jabbing me as to why I didn't do this one myself, and I told him its because I didn't want a half assed job, I wanted the pros to do it. I am not flaming all installers by any means, actually I am not sure I am pissed off at this installer yet. He is great at what he does .... but .... on my truck I personally saw the highschool kid ripping my truck apart and literally burning up my punch amp. He told me it was broke and I needed to buy a new one from them ... then I smelt the amp and could smell the burning at waste level, it was freshly burned up. I know the quality that the shop shoots for was not met by this installer and that is my problem, I expected and expressed a better install than what i recieved. I live in a city where customer service is fading into the shadows ... there are not a lot of choice for stereo installers, there are 2 install shops in my town and that is it. So they know they don't have to cater to their customers because they don't have any other choices. But that is a quirky side note on my sweet ass town. Thanks for the ok on the T Taps I had always heard they are a "alley install" way of doing things. ** also I had the rear council apart in less than 10 minutes, the RCA's go from 17' down to 3', I had the PAC converter but he told me that it doesn't matter if the truck had BOSE or not, a truck is a truck. With PAC there are not splices except for the remote wire. But the money wasn't the problem Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fast4popper Posted June 14, 2005 Report Share Posted June 14, 2005 this topics is about to get heated after my post, ( I think) on to your install that you posted pics of. first off there is nothing wrong with the LOC that is in your truck, yes the PAC piece works in the rear of the truck and gets signal back there. it is the same signal as the one if front of your truck. it is B4 the BOSE amp. the Pac piece that you speak of is just an LOC with a harness to connect easily. as for getting signal back there behind the radio, wire is cheep and it is WAY easier for us as installers to get you dash apart than your center console, also he had to get a remote turn on lead for your amp somewhere, behind the deck is the best place. If you wanted the PAC piece you should have told him, he cant read your mind, communication is key in life. No on to them "dreaded" scotch locks, actually they are T-taps. I ask you what is wrong with them? they are only getting signal and this signal is very very small in current, they do not have to carry large amount of electricity, just signal. sure it looks tacky behind your dash but other than you and the installer, no one else will see them, they work and they are cheep and easy. now I would NEVER use them on anything that needs to carry current but in this application there is nothing wrong. if you wanted them soldered you should have told him so. the only thing that I see wrong with this install is the home audio wire that he has run. and really that works too but just seems cheesy to use in a car install. check this out: your bill was 200 bucks. lets break it down: their way your way 55$ for an amp install 55 for an amp install 20 for RCA cable (basic) 20 for RCA cable 55+ for power wire (size dependant) 55+ for power wire 40 for an LOC 120 for the PAC interface 15 for install of LOC 60 for install of PAC (hourly rate console dis assy) 10 various shop supplies and fees 10 shop supplies and fees total 195$ plus tax 30 to do it your way with solder etc $350. I think you got away cheep, but now in the end you are frustrated and ticked off. this is why communication is key, DO NOT go into that shop hot headed and demanding things. go in nice and tell them what you see and what you thought that you were getting for your cash. obviously it is not what you got. give them a chance to make it right ( and right in this case it they way you want it) I doubt that you will get any cash back as I would not offer it to you. I would look at your truck and fix the cutting out problem of the bass but that is all I would do. Also I would have told you the price in advance and asked if you had any questions so that there was no question about the service you expected. I know that this will tick some of you off, but remember not everyone can work on cars and we are here to make a living too. all of my installers are NOT high school kids they are all over 24 yrs old and have wifes and kids tryin to make their mortgage just like we are. It is NOT easy to keep up with the factory side of things and interface properly with all the new things that are ALWAYS changing. this profession is WAY under appreciated. it is easy to talk about this and that and tell us how to do our job but we dont come to your work and tell you the way that we think it should be done. give this shop a break, yes some things arent up to your standards but their is nothing wrong with what they used in your truck. next time tell them what you want used and ask them alot of questions, ex: solder, loom, PAC or LOC? I would let them make this right for you and what you wanted but I in no way think you paid too much, nor do i think they did you wrong EXCEPT that they let it go with the subs cutting out. no as I said this will get some people worked up i am sure. pleae flame me if you need to, I am just making simple statements and showing the facts, i am in NO WAY yelling or arqueing. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> You low down dirty son of a b*.... lol ... just kidding ... Your way of approaching this and mine are very similar. Before they ever saw my truck I sat down (followed him around) with the owner and told him what I was expecting ... and why I was bringing it to them and not doing it myself like my previous builds. This guy also runs the local Bass Quake competitions and I always did my own systems for those, so he was jabbing me as to why I didn't do this one myself, and I told him its because I didn't want a half assed job, I wanted the pros to do it. I am not flaming all installers by any means, actually I am not sure I am pissed off at this installer yet. He is great at what he does .... but .... on my truck I personally saw the highschool kid ripping my truck apart and literally burning up my punch amp. He told me it was broke and I needed to buy a new one from them ... then I smelt the amp and could smell the burning at waste level, it was freshly burned up. I know the quality that the shop shoots for was not met by this installer and that is my problem, I expected and expressed a better install than what i recieved. I live in a city where customer service is fading into the shadows ... there are not a lot of choice for stereo installers, there are 2 install shops in my town and that is it. So they know they don't have to cater to their customers because they don't have any other choices. But that is a quirky side note on my sweet ass town. Thanks for the ok on the T Taps I had always heard they are a "alley install" way of doing things. ** also I had the rear council apart in less than 10 minutes, the RCA's go from 17' down to 3', I had the PAC converter but he told me that it doesn't matter if the truck had BOSE or not, a truck is a truck. With PAC there are not splices except for the remote wire. But the money wasn't the problem <{POST_SNAPBACK}> then you have a right to be pi$$ed off. thanks for "taking it like a man" if you are in with this owner like you are, then have him do it right or open up another shop next door and make some cash cause what he promised and what he delivered are 2 differnet things!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big O Posted June 14, 2005 Author Report Share Posted June 14, 2005 I guess that is where I am confused. If the T-taps aren't that big of a deal then I am not really that ticked off. I really wish he would have worked on the truck himself (otherwise I would have done it myself). But this is just a fun toy ... if I was still hard core into the bass I would prolly be more ticked off. And for everyone else ... fast4popper is right ... there is more to installing stereo's than connecting this wire to that wire ... You guys really do have an underappreciated profession ... but if you are good lots of people will hear about it. Rock on!! TIM Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fox_forma Posted June 14, 2005 Report Share Posted June 14, 2005 I'm not to sure i understand those pricing numbers that equal out to around $350.... I did my amp and wire install for less than $90 and it works fine. I may not understand what is being said tho Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fast4popper Posted June 14, 2005 Report Share Posted June 14, 2005 I'm not to sure i understand those pricing numbers that equal out to around $350.... I did my amp and wire install for less than $90 and it works fine. I may not understand what is being said tho <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Labor costs money, alot of money. we have a huge overhead, bills, lights, we also have to cover insurance for phuck ups, yes they do happen. If you can do it great, otherwise leave it to professionals! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big O Posted June 14, 2005 Author Report Share Posted June 14, 2005 $40 an hour is the going rate around here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fast4popper Posted June 15, 2005 Report Share Posted June 15, 2005 $40 an hour is the going rate around here <{POST_SNAPBACK}> 60 per hour here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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