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It helped out a lot but what I found is that most of the problem seems to be at the roof braces the factoy uses like a foam but it doesn't even fill the huge gap between the brace and the roof skin you can see in the pics I wrapped a couple of layers over the edge of the braces and then I used a cement crack filler for masonry because it stays very plyable but it should be enough support to link the roof to the braces and create a lot more support.






I figured while I had the head liner down I would take some pics of how the XM and Onstar antennas mount.




I used two door kits of Dynamat extreme it was enough to do two complete layers in the rear section of the roof and two complete layers on the rear half of the from sections mainy where the front was weakest.


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I did the same, A lot of work but its worth it.


Worth what???


What exactly are you getting out of this?


My roof is as flimsy as they come, but I don't see the point of this. Enlighten me.........


Late- Alex

You don't realy notice it but you get a lot of road noise through your roof and when you go over bumps and such you get a lot of noise through that way as well besides it making the roof much stiffer!

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man, I wanna do that....


it just seems like soooo much work!!  :dunno:


looks great  :thumbs:



It's actually not too bad I just took my time and spent probably 5-6hrs I wasn't in any rush. A hint to make it much easier pull the drivers side pillar off first and the gauge cluster surround and trace those wires down one goes just behind the gauges but you can get to the plug if you pull the left hand vent assembly by the drivers door out and the other (part of the same loom) is behind a box just to the left of the brake pedal. Then continue to pull the head liner out so you don't have to fight it later when you realize the headliner won't come out because the harness is glued to it.

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I noticed a lot of difference in road noise after I did mine, there is none. I did 2-3 layers on most of the top, witch keeps it a lot cooler in FL sun. Also 3 layers on the floor witch was the most noticable on cutting the road noise down and keeping the floor cool. I also used the expanble foam to do all the small spots. A little work ya but o well. :cool:

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When I got my sunroof installed I had the shop put in a 3/16 x 3/4 x 48" steel strip. They bonded the strip to the roof and no more spongey roof. It is a shame that a $40k truck has no braceing in the roof. :nonod:

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DynaMat is some killer stuff, but if you don't want to go that route, just drop the headliner, clean the area with rubbing alcohol, and use 3M double stick tape, (green backing) to glue short 1/2 inch aluminum angle stock to the roof in an X pattern where there are no braces. This will stiffen up the roof, not add much weight, and the 3M tape is damn near impossible to remove after cured.

Gets rid of the oil can effect on the top fast!



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I just finished dynamating my front doors, roof, rear cab wall and floor behind the front seats. It's a pain in the ass but it's worth it. Everything sounds better and cleaner, especially the 12's with the dynamat on the floor where the speakers fire down. It wasnt cheap too(many trips to Best Buy for more) but it was worth it.

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