402,408, or 427

[gbart]

hey guys havent been around here in forever thinkin about in the near future doing a swap what are your recomendations i would like to see mid 12's out of the truck its an 03 ss. Those of you with the apps. whats yours run et and how much was your build if you dont mind saying. And which one would be best to go with to meet my goal naturally aspirated. thanks guys missed the forum great place.

[adams2003]

A 402 or 408 would be able to get you to your goal.

[inthemarket]

A 402 or 408 would be able to get you to your goal.

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Go for it all and drop a 427 provided the drivetrain can handle it. (if it can and this is common knowledge, I deeply appologize for being a moron!)

[adams2003]

A 402 or 408 would be able to get you to your goal.

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Go for it all and drop a 427 provided the drivetrain can handle it. (if it can and this is common knowledge, I deeply appologize for being a moron!)

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There's a couple options out there for 427's. For mid 12's though, there's no need need to spend the extra $.

[j4nash]

just get yourself a slp 402 or if you want it built how you want it then get a 408

[detjoe]

just get yourself a slp 402 or if you want it built how you want it then get a 408

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so is the 402 the biggest strok w/ our LQ9??? the the 408 needs machine work??

 

If you found a old LQ9 block could you then swap your long blocks for each other and use the stock top half, is that how you get a 402???

[gbart]

how much you think it would cost to build a 402 or a 408 take me a while to decide. and how bout the drive train i know ill need to beef the tranny or swap but what about gears and front end shit like that you think that will hold up. how much we talkin to the wheels with a 402 to get into mid 12's or so im not used to this heavy of a car i dont know how much hp's it would take. Im also not used to this confusing computer and shit im a small block carburated motor kind of guy so any info is welcome and appreciated thanks for the replys so far.

[j4nash]

just get yourself a slp 402 or if you want it built how you want it then get a 408

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

so is the 402 the biggest strok w/ our LQ9??? the the 408 needs machine work??

 

If you found a old LQ9 block could you then swap your long blocks for each other and use the stock top half, is that how you get a 402???

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

402 is with a 4" crank

408 has the 4" crank and is 30 over

so yes the 408 does require machine work

[detjoe]

just get yourself a slp 402 or if you want it built how you want it then get a 408

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

so is the 402 the biggest strok w/ our LQ9??? the the 408 needs machine work??

 

If you found a old LQ9 block could you then swap your long blocks for each other and use the stock top half, is that how you get a 402???

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

402 is with a 4" crank

408 has the 4" crank and is 30 over

so yes the 408 does require machine work

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Thanks, do you enjoy yours? how different is it?

 

what else could be used from the stock assembly?

 

I bet you could use a LQ4 too??

 

This might be a better way to go than FI, but will there be any gains in durability going to a 402??

[j4nash]

basically all you will need it the short block and everything else will swap over.

I love my 408 i just put in a new cam yesterday. so we have not got it tunned in yet but zippy has been helping me on that so we should have it running good hear real soon.

if you are going to go to a 408 and 6.0 block can be used they will still bore the 30 over. really the swap is not to bad it will just take alot of time to do it. if you are going to be happy with the spces that slp has on there 402 i would say go for it but for me i wanted alittle bit more

[Justin Lamanna]

if you have the money go with the 427.

[BenKey]

[if you found a old LQ9 block could you then swap your long blocks for each other and use the stock top half, is that how you get a 402???

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Not sure what you mean here. You

 

It's a 6.0 block, not LQ4 or LQ9. The blocks are identical. The pistons are the only thing different between the two and some say stronger rods.

 

If you found an old 6.0 block, you could have it bored .030 over and slap in a stroker assy and call it a 408 - with a 4" stroke. As far as getting a 402, you would have to buy the whole rotating assy - crank, rods, pistons.

 

A long block comes with heads. A short block is without. So if you bought a short block it would not have heads, intake, and depending on where you buy, no covers, oil pan, or flywheel.

[1slow01z71]

Or you could build a 418

 

I had a full bolt on cammed and sprayed 5.3 in my truck and my 418 would leave my old setup in the dust like it was sitting still. I can spin all four in 4hi for 15ish feet back when the trans wasnt slipping. I would definately go this route over a supercharger cause you can always and an s/c later on or turbo.

 

LQ9 rods are much stronger than LQ4 rods. I have had both sets in my hand at the same time the LQ9 rods are thicker and much beefier like an aftermarket h-beam design too bad you cant use them for any stroker apps. If anyone has a set of them laying around out of your LQ9 let me know I would like to have a set for a stock stroke project Im going to be starting soon.

[TurbochargedBerserker]

I guess there are three schools of thought:

 

1) Add cubes first, then add FI later

2) Add FI first, then add cubes when you break some stock parts/save up more money

3) Add FI and cubes at the same time (which is about the same as 2)

 

My opinion is to do 2. So much of what you need to decide for a bored and stroked engine depends on whether you're going FI... It either means you're driving around for a year or so on an FI engine with no FI (low compression, wrong cam for NA, etc.) or when you add FI later you have to rebuild and switch a bunch of parts.

 

Plus FI > 4x extra cubes. Simple Gas Law here, but for each atmosphere of boost you add, you add your displacement to the total number of cubes (e.g. for one atmosphere of boost, you add 364 + 364 = 728 ci of power on a 6.0L) That's always better than 4x ci.

 

Now if you just plan on N2O then 1 is a better option because you can keep the same CR and pistons in stock form and not hurt too much.

 

If you add FI now, the benefit is a lot more power than from a stroker, and you can get systemic problems solved prior to adding the cubes. Plus you will know what you need (e.g. if you are always running very hot you need stronger low end parts), etc. Its also a cheaper first step. You buy your FI, fuel parts, tune, and tranny upgrade and move on. With a stroker, you need low end, heads, cam, intake, tranny, etc. Who knows it may be as much power as you want.

[1slow01z71]

IMO the little rule about CI with FI is flawed. Like we discussed over on pt.net the kid with the 6L with a procharger you said its like him having 700+CI motor well realistically lets say I make 550 at the crankyou honestly telling me that he is making 953chp. Umm not only no but hell no. Simple algebraic equation 550/418=1.31x728=953 FI can only make up so much true you may be putting twice as much air in but you have parasitic loss from the power adder and you also have the inefficiences of the motor at higher hp levels IE heat retention, friction in any number of places, and the list goes on. Me personally I dont like to be out a vehicle so I would rather build the strong base for FI then blow a motor and have to shit a 408. I built my motor for FI it is running 11.1 CR and well you cans ee the cam Im running. I built it for N/A right now so when I do switch to FI all I have to do is a head swap from my 62cc combustion chambers to some 72cc ones and an FI cam and make 800+hp with a big turbo. You have to plan ahead IMO the shortblock was designed with both apps in mind thus I ended up with small dished pistons with plans for a large combustion chamber later on.