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OBX headers


CNE

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Has anybody else seen the OBX headers on Ebay? The shorty's are stainless bolt ins for $295 plus shipping. I saw a set of long tubes, with cats and all piping to connect to stock exhaust for $499 plus shipping $32. I emailed the guy to make sure they came with everything and he said it was a complete bolt in system. Sounds too good to be true. Just wondering if anybody is using or has heard any good or bad about them.

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There is a huge thread on performancetrucks.net about it.

 

They are copies of the OLD dynatech design the plug wire eater.

 

 

OBX is well known for copying quality stuff and reproducing it with junk from japan or taiwan or somewhere overseas.. they are big with the import crowd. Plus.. the cats.. aren't really cats.. again there is a big thread about it.

 

I am going to just make a comment about headers here.. You get what you pay for. There is a Reason belanger headers are 1500 bucks. There is a reason Dynatechs are 1500 bucks..

 

Quality construction and design are huge factors in anything that is a performance mod.

 

 

If you want it good and fast it won't be cheap.

If you want it cheap and good it won't come fast.

And if you want it Cheap and Fast it will be far from good.

 

I learned that lesson about 15 years ago really early on in building cars..

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I figured they probably weren't great quality, but if you're on a budget, they might fill the need for a while. $500 versus $1500. So let's say truck A has Dynomax headers, cats, and catback for around $2300-$2500, and truck B with the same other mods has a "cheap" set of headers, stock cats and muffler, or maybe even a decent muffler for say $400-$500. How much faster is truck A going to be do you think? Possibly a tenth in the 1/4? Is a tenth worth an extra $2000? I'm not trying to start an argument here, I'm just trying to get some opinions as far as what the difference might be on the track. I know a free flowing exhaust is going to make a difference, but how about, stock exhaust and cutouts for $50, that's pretty free flowing ain't it? Again, I ain't disputing that a good exhaust system sounds great and will help performance, but like I read in another post about CAI's, there won't be much actual performance differences between brands to justify the money difference, I don't think. Maybe I'm wrong. What do you guys think?

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they are cheap knock-offs.

I agree that if the gain is there for less $$ then go for it. But reading @perftrucks I will wait till the other guy gets his and reports back:)

If I had just a reg silverado I would be less picky...but with the SS I am a bit more picky on the quality of parts.

 

better yet we should get the test of the two, real vs fake, dyna vs pacesetter...but thats a lota work.

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well if your on the fact that you are building your truck for a track then yes a tenth is a big deal. but you rather do it right the first time. lets say you but those cheap headers, they might work for a while but lets say they crack or rust out because there not ceramic coated..whatever it is something probably will go wrong, so now you spent 500-600 on a cheap pair now what are you going to do? buy the same thing and then let it happen again? now you at the same price as the dynomax(or close to it) . and if your a big time racer a 10th is defintly worth 2000. considering just to get into low 10's they spend 6-7000 or more! if it were me i would go for quality. i rather take time spend more money and have the best then just getting it and having cheaper quality. but its not my truck so do what you want it and have fun doing it, keep us posted on what you did.

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Your not starting a fight CNE the bottom line is.. the people that own these trucks.. well the group this used to be its changed alot now.. They wanted a reliable performance vehicle... that means go to the track 10 times a year and drive it 10k miles a year without having crap leak or misfire or have to change gaskets once a week... when you spend 30k on a performance truck and you buy stuff to do modifications.. you have to look at it this way.. you modding a 30k$ truck.. not a 1300 $ s10 pickup.

 

There is a certain level or respect a silverado ss commands over any other truck GM has produced. The SS truely has been the king of the hill for GM sport trucks.

 

Basically.. its almost embarassing when you see a guy butcher up one of these trucks and put cheap junk on it in his quest to try and drop a couple tenths in the quarter.

 

It's personal for me thats just my opinion and nothing more.. if you wanted a " go fast truck" then you should have gotten an el strippo short bed short cab fullsize done a 6.0 swap and then do your mods.. you would have alot less into it.

 

You have to see it this way to see it though my eyes.. you have a 6000 lb caddy version of a chevy truck.. yes its still a chevy truck but it has leather it has a body kit and 20 inch wheels.. its effing heavy.... its not a race truck. If you want it to go fast.. just spend the money in the right places. If you buy something cheap and just kina make it work.. a year down the road maybe 2 years maybe 2 weeks.. you will end up fixing it becuase the cheaper part did not stand up like the expensive one.

 

It's no big deal CNE I was just trying to make a point here becuase all of a sudden people on this forum have gotten fairly cheap. Please take no offence to that since it is not directed at you.

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:withstupid:

A-F^@%^*$#-MEN

Many people were to look at my truck they would have no idea that I have spent multiple thousands of dollars. Thats fine by me...Im doing it the right way. True that good headers will cost you over a thousand. However if thats your issue just put it in the bank for a supercharger and later on get headers which will help you with the blower. Or a cam...etc etc. The best thing you can do for the truck is beef up the tranny anyway. This forum has been around for a while...and there is a LOT of info buried in here. I was browsing and absorbing for months and I have read a lot...and theres still places I still dont dare to post a thread in (PCM TUNING for one)

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  • 3 weeks later...

Well here is the update for those that want it. I know there are some who could care less since they didn't cost $1500 and I didn't buy from them. Anyway, I decided to buy the OBX headers due to my budget for now to give them a try since they drew so much attention before. Hey, it ain't the first $500 I've wasted. So I get them in last Friday, pull them out of the box and suprise, they are pretty heavy guage stainless steel. The walls of the tubes were not thin and cheap feeling, the finish was excellent, all the necessary parts (except new manifold bolts) were included. Installation went fairly easy, the left side was tight. The set came with 6 places for 02 sensors and I only had 4, so I had to plug the other two holes. It would have been nice to get some plugs with the set though. The 2 rear plug wires on the left side were laying against the header tube from #5 cylinder. It turns up and goes back instead of down. I have temporarily zip-tied the 2 wires out of f the way from the tube. I will be replacing them with longer wires so I can reroute them. Everything fit perfectly and bolted right to the factory pipes. The "high flow cats" are not actually cats. They are more like resonators on the inside, hollow straight through with perforations along the edges. I set a P0420 this morning on the way to work. I will either install 02 simulators, or just tune it out. So far I've driven about 150 miles and made about 10 passes, no leaks and the sound is much better even with the stock muffler. Performance is better. I had previously run a best of 9.43 with I think a 2.13 60 ft. I'm not sure on the 60. I added the headers and built the trans with clutches and shift kit, and some other beefy goods. I ran a new best Sunday 9.27 with a 2.04 60 ft. Now I don't think the trans work helped the 60, but probably made some difference on the other end since it shifts firmer with less slippage. So, I would say the headers helped alot out of the hole. Now back to the money issue. I'm sure the other brands are great and a higher quality, but would they have made a bigger difference? I doubt it. Maybe a couple hundredths. So, my opinion is this, if you are on a budget, I think these are a good alternative. Not everyone has multiple thousands of dollars to throw at a truck. I can't be the only one on this site on a budget. I had a $3,000 budget, and have not exceeded it yet. So far I've bought: GM Performance CAI $308 (probably a stupid move on a budget since I already had a K&N CAI that worked fine. I sold it to cover some of the expense), OBX Headers with cats $531 shipped, Tranny upgrades, with shift kit $400, TB converter FREEBY!!! (I won't tell you how I got that deal), and I bought SSThunder's cam for $200. I still need to get my valve springs and pushrods so I can install and then $400 for a custom tune. Then the rest is going on the nitrous. Now don't get me wrong, I won't scrimp on the internals and nitrous set-up, but on someething that just bolts on and won't hurt anything, I don't see a problem with being conservative. Just thought I'd post what I found out about the headers, and to let folks know, there are alternatives. Just my .02

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i've seen those on ebay and i had my questions as well as doubts but i tell ya what i'm budgeted like a mofo, and i want headers baaad, and for around 500 they can't be all that bad, for guys who can't fork up a grand or more i say they arn't too bad...but me personally i'd rather save for some dynatechs and be done with it

Edited by Jond983 (see edit history)
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Well...the kit seems ok to be a direct bolt on. But I got my pace setters for alot less and ended up spending just a tad more for real cats and custom fab pipes for the install. :dunno: I looked these up on ebaymotors and after looking at the pictures, they do look like copies of the dynatechs. However, I dont like the looks of those welds in the photos...I would have spent an extra $200 or so having them coated...

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I tuned a truck on Saturday that had a set of these. They are definitely the old Dynatech design right on down to smacking the frame on the drivers side. A little bit of work around the frame and they'll be fine, but I personally would rather save a bit more and go for a set of the real deal (dynatech) or Belangers.

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  • 2 months later...

is there any other way around throwing a check engine light? on my 05 WRX STi, i installed an O2 simulator, and it still threw codes for the cat every now and then, so i put an extender on the O2 sensor to move it out of the exhaust stream, and it kept the CEL off for the rest of the time i owned the car. would that trick work with the OBX headers on this truck?

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