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Dead Battery?!?!


Ron's SS

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Hey all,

 

This morning I started the truck fine, it was sitting the last two days, un-driven. I drive about 5 miles to work and notice my passenger heated mirror not working. So in the parking lot at work, I turn the key on (truck not running) and turn all the heaters on (head lights were also on.) Go out to the truck after 5 minutes to see if the mirror is working and truck is dead. Won't turn over at all.

 

So do you think I killed it in 5 minutes because I didn't have the truck running? or is this an obvious, "your battery is going." If so, could anyone advise me on a decent replacement battery? I know the Optima's are the best, but I don't want to spend that on one. Your input is most appreciated.

 

Ron

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I'm going to have to go with it being your battery. The truck shouldn't kill the battery that fast. I have had the stereo in my truck on (aftermarket system, 2 amps, one for the subs and one for the mids) for 30+ minutes and had no issues. I would be surprised if the defrosters and lights take more juice than my amps.

 

As for a new one, Optima’s are nice like you said, but just expensive. My suggestion is to hit your local auto supply store and see what they carry. Just make sure that the Cold Cranking Amps are the same if not higher than what the stock battery is (don't know this one). The higher the cold cranking amps, the stronger the battery.

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The battery is definitely flat; believe it or not it doesn't require much energy to start our trucks (comparatively speaking). So I can totally see having a battery just good enough to start the truck but not having the reserve anymore to sustain a 5-minute draw.

 

Basic charging system diagnosis - get the truck running and take a volt/ohm meter and measure the voltage at the back of the alternator, positive lead on the red terminal and negative lead on the alternator case, it should be 14.4 volts (give or take a tenth). Assuming that the alternator is running fine, check alternator voltage at the battery posts, it should match alternator output (or else you have corroded cables). Assuming the alternator is charging correctly get the battery recharged as best as you can then unhook it from the vehicle and measure its voltage at the terminals, on a brand-new battery it is supposed to be 12.6+ volts. With the battery unhooked from the truck let sit for 3-hours and measure again, it should still be at the voltage measured 3-hrs earlier. Let the battery sit again overnight in the vehicle but disconnected so that it is allowed to stand in the cold and measure the voltage at the battery terminals one last time and compare to the following chart:

 

Resting Voltage - % Charge

12.7 - 100%

12.6 - 90%

12.5 - 80%

12.3 - 70%

12.2 - 60%

12.1 - 50%

12.0 - 40%

11.8 - 30%

11.7 - 20%

11.6 - 10%

< 11.6 - DEAD!

 

Mr. P. :)

Edited by misterp (see edit history)
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I have recently had issues flashing my PCM and have determined it to be the battery. I still have the stocker. I use jumper cables to the minivan when I reflash now to prevent lock-up. Yea,...I am too cheap to buy a new battery. One of these days....

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Hey Mr. P,

 

Thanks for the info. I ran to Sam's Club and bought a 770 cold cranking amp, 78 series battery and everything seems good to go. It may sound far fetched but the truck seems to run alot smoother with the new battery, maybe it's all in my head, but it runs now.

 

Thanks again, this site and it's members are a great help!

Ron

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Hey Mr. P,

 

Thanks for the info. I ran to Sam's Club and bought a 770 cold cranking amp, 78 series battery and everything seems good to go. It may sound far fetched but the truck seems to run alot smoother with the new battery, maybe it's all in my head, but it runs now.

 

Thanks again, this site and it's members are a great help!

Ron

Cool man, it was time for a new battery! I have wanted to post that chart here anyways so now we can find it using the search function for future newbies.

 

Mr. P. :)

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Hey Mr. P,

 

Thanks for the info. I ran to Sam's Club and bought a 770 cold cranking amp, 78 series battery and everything seems good to go. It may sound far fetched but the truck seems to run alot smoother with the new battery, maybe it's all in my head, but it runs now.

 

Thanks again, this site and it's members are a great help!

Ron

Cool man, it was time for a new battery! I have wanted to post that chart here anyways so now we can find it using the search function for future newbies.

 

Mr. P. :)

 

You're always there to help! Much appreciated. FYI for the economical battery hunters, mine cost $53 with tax and has 3yr/36K free replacement and is rated for 7 years. Not to bad.

Edited by Ron's SS (see edit history)
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