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Tranny Aftermath


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Well I finally have everything back together. Still some tuning to do but the SS is back in action!

 

Here's the steels from the 2nd clutch pack - heavily abused & blued after only 20K-miles; much slippage here, all the clutches & steels were totally shot, none were salvageable:

Steels.jpg

 

Comparison of input drums - see how the CK Performance input shaft is black from the hardening process? I don't think my Torque-Drive unit came with a hardened shaft :nonod:

InputDrums.jpg

 

CRACK! I did not see it originally even after it was pointed out to me:

BustedInputA.jpg

 

Stock on the left, mine on the right :sick: :

BustedInputB.jpg

 

Where's The Beef?! There's a lot of aluminum missing here, the collar simply shattered like glass into hundreds of tiny fragments:

BustedInputC.jpg

 

BustedInputD.jpg

 

This time I will follow Krambo's advice, that is to achieve the quickest possible shift timings while using the least amount of pressure. And definitely no more banging into 2nd during low speeds.

 

Mr. P.

Edited by Mr. P. (see edit history)
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looks like you have a bed in your garage LOL, how is the new tranning shiffting?i want to do some more upgrades to my tranny i would like to get a tourque converter and a match cam any thoughts on what kind? i already have installed the transgo shift kit HD-C my self and it shifts a little hard at part throttle.

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The unit in the picture from CK Performance is a 30 spline it appears, is that the one you used?
No that is not the exact input drum used, there was a miscommunication and I got a 5.7L input drum and had to reorder the correct drum the next day. The 6.0L drum is the same, just different input shaft.

 

Mr. P.

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looks like you have a bed in your garage LOL, how is the new tranning shiffting?i want to do some more upgrades to my tranny i would like to get a tourque converter and a match cam any thoughts on what kind? i already have installed the transgo shift kit HD-C my self and it shifts a little hard at part throttle.

I'm happier overall, but the 1-2 shift we softened a bit too much IMO so that will need more tuning. Another change I made is that I am using the PATC Raptor Blood ATF and the stuff is different, my converter acts much looser than it used to. I know now that I definitely had clutch slippage, today the truck will rip all four tires loose at part throttle in 1st gear :driving: but the 1-2 shift will need more work.

 

Your 1-2 shift being too harsh: how many washers did you put in your 2nd accumulator? and did you drill the 1-2 passage in your separator plate?

 

Mr. P. :)

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I will have to look at the directions again i believe a put in one waher in the servo its was about a year ago only put 1500 miles on the truck since the kit and i did drill out the seperaor plate. I also have the stock tune in right now wanted to make sure i passed inspection. it seems that it shifted a little harder since i put the stock tune in.

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I will have to look at the directions again i believe a put in one waher in the servo its was about a year ago only put 1500 miles on the truck since the kit and i did drill out the seperaor plate. I also have the stock tune in right now wanted to make sure i passed inspection. it seems that it shifted a little harder since i put the stock tune in.

According to Chris @ CK Performance (owner) you do not want to drill the 1-2 separator plate hole more then 90-thousandths on these AWD trucks. Also, as long as the 1-2 shift does not bang into 2nd while cruising at low speeds you're ok. You can remove one washer from the accumulator and that will domesticate the shift quite a bit.

 

Mr. P.

Edited by misterp (see edit history)
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i drlled the 1-2 at .086 and their was another hole or two drilled at .091 better lubrication, it rellay dosen't bang into gear its a little harder then before the kit. I've been having troulbe with my evap system (P0446) and had it a the stealership a few times and been clearing the codes. this is when it seems to shift a little hard untill a 100 miles or so, it learns the stock shifting properties. latey i can't get that many miles on the truck because every time the evap system completes it's test the code coms back. I think this time the code comes back I'm going to disable the SES light for that code. So back to my origanal question what is best tourque converter and cam package for our trucks, I would like a lopey idle, also have a volant CAI, shorty headers, (prolably going to get the dyno-maxx system if the price ever comes down) 160 t-stat, GM e-fans, bm transcooler. sorry for such along post but you seem to know a lot about these trucks thanks in advance.

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i drlled the 1-2 at .086 and their was another hole or two drilled at .091 better lubrication, it rellay dosen't bang into gear its a little harder then before the kit. I've been having troulbe with my evap system (P0446) and had it a the stealership a few times and been clearing the codes. this is when it seems to shift a little hard untill a 100 miles or so, it learns the stock shifting properties. latey i can't get that many miles on the truck because every time the evap system completes it's test the code coms back. I think this time the code comes back I'm going to disable the SES light for that code. So back to my origanal question what is best tourque converter and cam package for our trucks, I would like a lopey idle, also have a volant CAI, shorty headers, (prolably going to get the dyno-maxx system if the price ever comes down) 160 t-stat, GM e-fans, bm transcooler. sorry for such along post but you seem to know a lot about these trucks thanks in advance.

Yeah I agree that the problem is not the shift kit, it's the PCM being wigged-out from the SES code.

 

AFA "what is best torque converter and cam package for our trucks" that question is way too general. Do you want best mileage, or best performance without affecting mileage, or Hot Street performance with some sacrifice in mileage (I'm thinking like average 13.0-mpg) or best strip performance? Also, your future F/I plans (if any) will be a big factor too unless you want to resell your cam at that time for a better bumpstick, which is not a bad idea to consider.

 

I would pick the converter first, based on intended useage/performance and economy concerns - then cam according to your 'taste' and rest of vehicle combination, I'm firm in the belief that you settle on your cam selection last as it 'brings the package together'.

 

So what are your useage, performance, economy thoughts?

 

Mr. P.

Edited by misterp (see edit history)
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I want peformance, not worry about gas milagee, only put about 2000 miles a year on the truck, and something in the mid price range, I agree with doing the converter frist, truck has the extended warrantry till 12/08 or 51,000 miles(not that it is ever going back unlees it is something major) I don't think i will ever go FI.

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I want peformance, not worry about gas milagee, only put about 2000 miles a year on the truck, and something in the mid price range, I agree with doing the converter frist, truck has the extended warrantry till 12/08 or 51,000 miles(not that it is ever going back unlees it is something major) I don't think i will ever go FI.

I would go with a premium 2800-3000 rpm converter, even with stock LQ9 will make a huge difference in performance. For cams, zippy has had good success with the Comp 273XR, and FMS also has some proven combinations; I would also not be afraid of larger cams with a stall that high. Lots of guys use grinds with duration in the 220-224 range with very good results, I would not be afraid of going as large as mid-230's on a wide LSA cam but that's my personal preference, I like rowdy cams. But as a general rule durations larger than mid-220's will really start to eat into your highway cruise mileage. Long tube headers will be a must, and you will also need to look into intake upgrades, that's a big source of lost power on the LQ9 is the factory intake. Those are my thoughts, I'm sure they're not all entirely correct but you asked for my opinion!

 

Mr. P.

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