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Electric Water Pump?


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I would also like to know this... I'd want to do this as part of my radix/e-fan/cam/head swap... anybody know of any issues with electronic water pumps (ie reliability, over/underheating, pressure, etc?)

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I would also like to know this... I'd want to do this as part of my radix/e-fan/cam/head swap... anybody know of any issues with electronic water pumps (ie reliability, over/underheating, pressure, etc?)

From what I know about them on other applications, there are no issues. They flow better and are much more efficient, especially in racing applications.

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  • 2 weeks later...

:withstupid: Anyone done this? How does this change the belt configuration?

 

A little more technical: If I have a 160 T-Stat, and the thermal switch for this pump set to 180 (as is usual), then the motor will still run at 180-190, (because the pump doesn't run until that temperature) right? So I'd have to have the pump set lower, to somewhere just above the T-Stat, right? So it opens and then shorty afterwards or beforehand the pump kicks on right? What's the ideal scenario?

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Oh, and I know that switching to e-fans gains you something like 40hp @ 5800rpm, would there be any kind of gain from going to electric water pump? or is it just for consistency?

 

The pot pipe... put it down. Electric fans give you MAYBE 10-15HP, nothing near 40. The electric WP is shown to give you "up to" 10 as well I believe.

 

With an electric WP, you don't need a stat at all. Just set the turn on temps and it will only circulate at the desired temp zone.

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i run a EWP. yes its pricey. my accesories are Fbodys tho. one guy on PT.net used one but he used 2 sets of gaskets so it would be spaced out far enough to run truck accesories

 

belt routing is the same as a stock pump.

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Awesome... So since I have an 03 I just get the housing the for an 04 (since the 03s are all one piece right?), and install the housing sans t-stat, and throw the pump on with the correct thermal switch and I'm good?

 

 

I've a quick question for the tuning guys: On a 03, when doing an efan, there are two wires that the PCM can use to control the fans (a high and low temperature or something, right?). Would it be possible to wire the ECM up to ground out the relay for the fan pump a few degrees before the e-fans come on... that way at highway speeds the efans might not even need to activate, right?

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Awesome... So since I have an 03 I just get the housing the for an 04 (since the 03s are all one piece right?), and install the housing sans t-stat, and throw the pump on with the correct thermal switch and I'm good?

I've a quick question for the tuning guys: On a 03, when doing an efan, there are two wires that the PCM can use to control the fans (a high and low temperature or something, right?). Would it be possible to wire the ECM up to ground out the relay for the fan pump a few degrees before the e-fans come on... that way at highway speeds the efans might not even need to activate, right?

the pump is wired to ignition source so soon as key is on the pump is on. this is great for several reasons. filling cooling system with coolant without running truck. i used a normal housing and gutted it and installed a Gen I Tstat. i didnt think of a newer stat to try. i had these around so i used them

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the pump is wired to ignition source so soon as key is on the pump is on. this is great for several reasons. filling cooling system with coolant without running truck. i used a normal housing and gutted it and installed a Gen I Tstat. i didnt think of a newer stat to try. i had these around so i used them

 

 

If I wasn't using a T-Stat (coolant is free-flowing), I would definately NOT wire the pump to be on all the time... It'd take forever to heat up the engine! Even without e-fans going! I read a topic over on the LS1 forum about using a thermal switch to trigger the relay, I would do something like that (with a manual switch installed under the hood so I could run the pump with the truck off)... My question is instead of a thermal switch, could I use a PCM trigger to trip the relay?

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If I wasn't using a T-Stat (coolant is free-flowing), I would definately NOT wire the pump to be on all the time... It'd take forever to heat up the engine! Even without e-fans going! I read a topic over on the LS1 forum about using a thermal switch to trigger the relay, I would do something like that (with a manual switch installed under the hood so I could run the pump with the truck off)... My question is instead of a thermal switch, could I use a PCM trigger to trip the relay?

no stat makes motor run hotter. reason being it doesnt have enough time to stay cool since it circulates to fast. i highly recoment a 160 stat with 2 small holes drilled in it and wired to ignition. running a motor without a water pump circulating coolant is very bad and with aluminum heads you could easily warp them.

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no stat makes motor run hotter. reason being it doesnt have enough time to stay cool since it circulates to fast. i highly recoment a 160 stat with 2 small holes drilled in it and wired to ignition. running a motor without a water pump circulating coolant is very bad and with aluminum heads you could easily warp them.

 

 

That answer the question I just had... SS_bnoon_SS had said to let the coolant free flow and have the pump be wired to come on at the right temperatures (which was what I thought was the correct application of these things), but I had also heard about the whole warpage issues... Since water pumps are rated to a certain number of hours, wouldn't running it all the time shorten the life of it? I realize the difference between running when truck is on vs when truck is hot is like spare change, but even that adds up...

 

So if I does this, can anyone tell me the meizere or equivalent part number and whatever else I need (part wise) for install?

 

Thanks everyone for answering my questions...

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