I CORNER Posted January 10, 2004 Report Share Posted January 10, 2004 I want to lower my truck only about 1". A local truck shop says that the factory torsion bar can be easily loosened up to 1" drop with zero effect on alignment or effective spring rate, just as long as the keys are not changed. He also says that a 1" extruded axle block can easily lower the rear suspension without pinion problems. Is it that easy? I just want to avoid any driveline vibrations, loose springs, bottoming shocks or crossing the line for factory alignment setting ranges. This needs to remain a daily driver. I have spent thousands of $ and hundreds of hours dialing in the suspension on my 94 Z28 M6 so it corners at way over 1g with R-Compound tires. That complete suspension uses tubular, welded-box steel or aluminum arms with all spherical rod ends and spherical bearings. So I know that you have to be very careful in engineering and parts selection. If my truck shop is right, I can do this very cheaply with no adverse effects. Do you agree? Rick R Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2drTahoe Posted January 10, 2004 Report Share Posted January 10, 2004 You lost me on the 1" block in the rear. How will that lower it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I CORNER Posted January 10, 2004 Author Report Share Posted January 10, 2004 Showing my AWD ignorance; doesn't the U-bolt block go between the axle and leaf spring, with the spring below the axle, thereby lowering the vehicle?? This was the way I first lowered my Toyota minitruck years ago, before deciding to replace the entire springs with Chisholm lowering springs. Am I out to lunch? My local truck shop said that lowering shackes start at a 2" drop, which is more than I wanted to do and more than the adjustment range of the factory front torsion bars. Rick R Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2drTahoe Posted January 10, 2004 Report Share Posted January 10, 2004 I thought maybe that was where you were heading. Normal 4x4s have the block, but I don't know if the SS does. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scandore Posted January 10, 2004 Report Share Posted January 10, 2004 Rick a block would raise a SS, the springs are on top of the axle. To lower the rear you use a shackle and yes you can just turn the torsion bars down but the lower you go the softer the ride. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I CORNER Posted January 10, 2004 Author Report Share Posted January 10, 2004 Thanks, never mind. I guess I need to crawl under there and get a little 4x4 observation. I was just repeating what the truck shop said without verifying myself. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rico750sxi Posted January 10, 2004 Report Share Posted January 10, 2004 Shackles such as BellTech 6400 have two holes in them, a 1" hole and a 2" hole. Use them and crank the torsion bars down(loosen the bolt) until you acheive 1" in the front. I would say crank 3 turns then go for a ride to let it settle. Then crank some more if needed. Just remember to measure the front fenderlip to ground measurement before cranking. Good luck, hope this helps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
got2haul Posted January 16, 2004 Report Share Posted January 16, 2004 I don't own an SS, I have a Sierra Denali. From personal experience, the Belltech shackles -- part number 6400, will lower the rear of your truck about 1-3/4 inches over the axle, measured at the center of the wheel well opening. You can ONLY use the upper hole in those shackles in which to mount the spring eyes. The spring eyes will NOT fit in the lower hole because there just isn't enough clearance for the eye at the back of the shackle. HOWEVER, Belltech makes another shackle that will fit our trucks -- part number 6700 that is about 1-1/4 inches shorter than the 6400 shackle. I have this one on my Denali now. These shackles drop the rear about an inch and an eighth, measured over the rear axle. When using these shackles your truck will still have a slight rake, but not near as noticable as with the factory shackles. You can use any shackle on GM trucks that is made to fit 2-1/2 inch wide leaf springs, as long as it isn't more than 1/2 inch longer than the Belltech 6400 shackles. That's about all the clearance you have before the spring eye hits the underside of the bed when using the 6400 model. Working on several of my own trucks, I have experience installing spindles, front coil springs, flip kits, c-notches, replacement of the front leaf spring hangers, carrier bearing relocators, you name it -- everything except air bags. If you have any specific questions, I'll try to answer them for you. Here's the URLs for a couple of comparison photos of the differences in the factory shackles and the 6400 and the 6700. The shortest one is the factory, the middle length shackle is the 6700, and the longest is the 6400. http://groups.msn.com/GMCC3Owners/shoebox....oto&PhotoID=188 http://groups.msn.com/GMCC3Owners/shoebox....oto&PhotoID=189 Got2Haul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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