willmceliece Posted February 20, 2008 Report Share Posted February 20, 2008 i've got a 2006 vortec max with the 4l70e thats driving me crazy. i took it to the dealer initially to have a 1-2 and 2-3 shift clunk looked at. it also does it on decel. too. not so much a harsh shift but more audible "clunk". they replaced the valve body, 1-2 piston and springs under warranty. the 1-2 is great now but the 2-3 and 3-2 are killing me. i was told that the way the solar gear meshes together gives it a little slop. is there anything i can do to quiet this down? thanks guys! -will Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fireman31 Posted February 20, 2008 Report Share Posted February 20, 2008 Did they check the U-joint(s)? It is common for a U-joint to have a little play in it once the vehicle is broken in hand has some mileage on it, but it will eventually need to be replaced......a slight popping noise like you describe is common when lifting off the throttle or downshifting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loeryder Posted February 20, 2008 Report Share Posted February 20, 2008 The "driveline clunk" in the NBS chevys was related to the slip yoke on the front of the driveshaft. Not sure if they are discounting that as the cause because it was supposedly fixed on later models but you can jack the rear wheels off the ground and get under the truck and twist the driveshaft by hand each direction. On my Z71 you could see the yoke move. My SsS has a slight clunk when going from accel to decel or when coasting and feathering the pedal. there was an updated part # for the new yoke and my dealer ended up replacing it under warranty after I took it in 3 times. The first couple times they just packed the slip yoke with grease, much like their ingenius fix for the steering shaft clunk. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willmceliece Posted February 21, 2008 Author Report Share Posted February 21, 2008 ive heard about the drivetrain clunk and i also had my steering shaft replaced twice..i hate dealers. what makes me pretty sure its tranny is the clunk is dead on with just the 1-2 upshift and 2-3 downshift. i will check the yoke though. does anyone have a clue? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thomp62301 Posted February 21, 2008 Report Share Posted February 21, 2008 The dealer told me that this shift clunk was normal and they would'nt even look at it. so far 60,000 on that truck and no issues. Never heard it in the ss though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willmceliece Posted February 21, 2008 Author Report Share Posted February 21, 2008 (edited) do you think a shift kit would just make it more noticeable or possibly take up some slack? Edited February 25, 2008 by willmceliece (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willmceliece Posted February 25, 2008 Author Report Share Posted February 25, 2008 bump Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willmceliece Posted March 12, 2008 Author Report Share Posted March 12, 2008 after talking to a few people a have decided i should better go ahead and bulk up the rest of the tranny when i fix the sunshell clunk. i live in georgia and talked to a guy at outlaw transmission. he was really helpful, but he reffered to my trans as the 65e. i figured if hes familiar with the 60 and 65 then he would be with the 4l70e also. he quoted me $1300 for their stage 2(500 hp) unit with a converter. does this price sound right or is that real low? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
misterp Posted March 12, 2008 Report Share Posted March 12, 2008 Sorry to be late to the thread - The transmission should not make a peep. At all. That planetary gear line they tried to feed you was outright BS; either they were placating you or they believe this crap which means they are not competent IMO. GM trucks are notorious for driveline clunks of all description, you can spend a man-month chasing the noise out of the drivelines and axles. The U-joints seem to be pretty good IMO, but the yokes and pinions are not the best. When my SSS was new you could distinctly hear 2 'thunks' when shifting into reverse (pinion slop). The 4L60/65/70 are very similar transmissions, a lot of people in the industry call them "60's" or "65's". Sunshell clunk? In order to judge price I would have to see an itemized list of parts. What brand/stall speed on the converter? it sounds like he's installing a shift kit? what other parts are going into the trans? My opinion, $1300 for the trans alone is cheap for a performance build, and including the converter that's way cheap. What exactly are you buying? Mr. P. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willmceliece Posted March 12, 2008 Author Report Share Posted March 12, 2008 i hear you on the gm driveline issues and i have some slop also, but this is def. tranny related. i agree about the sunshells having play being bs because i've never heard of this. i just know that stock trannys are supposed to be quiet and mines not. the shift clunk is pretty bad, and if i slow down and coast, then get back on the throttle there is some pretty good slack then a clunk when it catches. talk about annoying. here is the link to the tranny. outlaw transmission let me know what you think. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
misterp Posted March 12, 2008 Report Share Posted March 12, 2008 i hear you on the gm driveline issues and i have some slop also, but this is def. tranny related. i agree about the sunshells having play being bs because i've never heard of this. i just know that stock trannys are supposed to be quiet and mines not. the shift clunk is pretty bad, and if i slow down and coast, then get back on the throttle there is some pretty good slack then a clunk when it catches. talk about annoying. here is the link to the tranny. outlaw transmission let me know what you think. How many miles are on it now? Isn't this a fairly new trans? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willmceliece Posted March 12, 2008 Author Report Share Posted March 12, 2008 ya real new, 33,000 miles on her. old man owned it before me and truck was stock. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
misterp Posted March 12, 2008 Report Share Posted March 12, 2008 (edited) ya real new, 33,000 miles on her. old man owned it before me and truck was stock. OK I looked over the page and I actually kinda like the way this guy thinks, the only major area I would differ from in his build is what he does for 2nd gear, plus there are a couple areas that are wasted money IMO - 1) I would use the Alto wide High-Energy band rather than the kevlar band, because the kevlar bands are very hard and hence have more slippage and burn/tear up the drum. I've got 60K on an Alto wide band and it's *fantastic* not even a little mark of a stripe on it yet, a great piece and will grab so hard it will choke the motor on the 1-2 shift if you want it to. 2) I disagree with blocking the 2nd accumulator circuit entirely, I would still run a 2nd accumulator but with recalibrated springs (transgo setup). If he insists on blocking off the 2nd accumulator entirely then run the Vette servo. But for me I run the transgo accumulator setup with a billet servo and 2 washers, shift is great and I am thinking on my next trans build of shaving one washer down with a grinder so that I'm running '1-1/2 washers.' 3) I would run the 11-vane pump instead of the 13-vane pump, the 11-vanes move more than enough fluid and are proven more reliable. 4) web page says "hardened input shaft and drum" - does this mean a reinforced drum, with a metal over-band where the input shaft splines into the drum? if so this is A Good Thing (aka required on performance build - GET ONE!) 5) use your existing planetary gearsets and save yourself $300-500 in parts; yours are PLENTY strong, no need to replace them. 6) blocking the 3rd accumulator is the hot ticket, this guy has the right idea here 7) Add a billet 4th/OD servo - this is very important IMO, so you can tow or go WOT in top gear. 8) the 9-friction 3/4 pack is the right thing to do; I personally use Alto high energy products, but others have used Raybestos Blue Plate Specials with fair results. Make sure they are not using just regular Raybestos 9) since your solenoids have such low mileage on them, ask the builder to reuse your existing solenoids and that saves about $75-100 off the cost of the build. 10) with the money you save (!) buy a C5 Corvette deep-sump pan and filter ($150) - they work, I could feel the difference in a better launch. 11) Budget $60-110 for a transmission cooler - rule here is go large (B&M 12" x 12") or go REAL large (TruCool Max 11" x 20"). Only use a cooler that is of a "stacked plate" design, the tube-and-fin ones are proven junk. Call and find out exactly the model and stall speed of the converter, because there are only a couple worth a crap and the rest on the market will cost you mileage and boil the ATF. You *don't* want a bad/wrong converter. With a stock truck a quality "loose" 2800-RPM (think Vigilante) or "tight" 3000-RPM (think Yank) converter is lots of fun with minimal impact on city mileage. Converters are a whole nother thread, use the search they've been discussed to death. But overall looks alright, everything's in there but a billet output shaft and reduction tube (I would add a 4340 reduction tube btw, $125). Mr. P. Edited March 12, 2008 by Mr. P. (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willmceliece Posted March 12, 2008 Author Report Share Posted March 12, 2008 wow thank you for the info, im going to ride out there to talk to them and ill bring up all of this. does them blocking off all of the acc. pistoms take place of a shift kit? i still tow a little and want good street manners. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
misterp Posted March 12, 2008 Report Share Posted March 12, 2008 (edited) wow thank you for the info, im going to ride out there to talk to them and ill bring up all of this. does them blocking off all of the acc. pistoms take place of a shift kit? i still tow a little and want good street manners. "Shift Kit" is just a phrase that means "shift behavior recalibration kit" i.e. anything you do to physically change the behavior of the hydraulics is installing a shift kit. However all the over-the-counter shift kits (Transgo, Superior, Zippy Performance) are meant to do everything possible while still not removing and gutting the transmission, and while this gets 90% of the job done there are a couple very significant design corrections to the 4L60/65/70 that should be done and require the entire unit to be blown apart (plugging the 3rd accumulator is one of them). So long answer to your question, these additional corrections are in addition to whatever shift kit he chooses to install. AFA towing with the 3rd accumulator blocked-off, you want that - your 3rd gear will hit about as hard as the stock 1-2 does today, it's not violent by any means and needed in a tow rig. And you want the billet 4th accumulator, if you cannot afford it now it is easily added later but you want it. The 2nd accumulator is up to the discretion of the builder, I know everyone pumps-up the billet 2nd servos but the Vette servo is brutal enough to break shit and since the builder is plugging the 3rd accumulator the benefit of a billet 2nd is kinda moot, saving you $50 because you can use the cheaper Vette servo. But get a billet 4th... RE daily manners - a full-tilt strip-prepped 4L60 will still have fantastic day-to-day road manners; we have a 4L60 running in a local f-body outlaw 10.5 car with 434 nitrous stroker (1200-hp) and not only went more than a season without issue (was perfect on teardown) it also has sedate road manners, you would never know it was a built unit. So on your initial test drive if you notice any banging into gear, abrupt operation, slipping, hesitation, etc refuse delivery of the vehicle until it's right. You want shifts that are "crisp" and "fast" and "no drama"; this is best for both longevity and performance. OH AND VERY IMPORTANT I FORGOT - you will need a tune, have your PCM tuner remove all torque management, set the adaptive shift timings table either to .2-.3 seconds or zero them out entirely, and tell your trans builder and PCM programmer both that you want the trans & PCM to use a STOCK shift pressures table. Mr. P. Edited March 12, 2008 by Mr. P. (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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