r8rs4lf Posted May 19, 2008 Report Share Posted May 19, 2008 I always use my AC and now that SoCal is getting hit with a heat wave, it seems like my AC doesn't blow cold or it takes a while to get going. In comparison to my wifes 06 Yukon XL, mine SUCKS! The Yukon blows hella cold fast. Anyways, I went to Auto Zone to buy some oil to change the in the Yukon and also bought a charge kit. It came with a bottle of freon (R-134a with Sub-Zero synthetic A/C booster) I assume and a guage. Has anyone ever done this and was it worth it? The kit was about $30.00 so it's not a big loss. I was just wondering if anyone has had any great results. Also, it says to connect it to the low side of the system. Can anyone direct me to that port? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rausche Posted May 19, 2008 Report Share Posted May 19, 2008 Don't our trucks (along with most newer vehicles) use R-134b? Anyways, I just bring my vehicles up the road to my local shop. He's got the A/C machine, so I don't have to worry about anything. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
r8rs4lf Posted May 19, 2008 Author Report Share Posted May 19, 2008 Don't our trucks (along with most newer vehicles) use R-134b? R-134B???? Newer vehicles???? My wifes Yukon is an 06' which is newer than my 04' SSS and it said R-134A under the hood. Are you sure? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wody Posted May 19, 2008 Report Share Posted May 19, 2008 (edited) R134A never done the little can charge, but i've seen it. i'm a bit skeptical of it. i would much rather recover the existing refrigerant, put it under a vacuum then charge it back up. but i also have access to an a/c machine. Edited May 19, 2008 by WODY (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbocoop Posted May 19, 2008 Report Share Posted May 19, 2008 Ive done it myself but with an AC machine, I wouldnt trust those stupid little cans Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cwest94 Posted May 19, 2008 Report Share Posted May 19, 2008 I did it once on a old car of mine like 10yrs ago. It did not do a thing, was a waste of money. A lot of places around me do specials for $99 bucks for inspection and charging, so it's worth the extra 70 bucks to pay getting done, and done right. I know what you mean about the a/c in the SS sucking, mine is crap. While my truck was still under the factory warranty, my truck spent at least 10 days each summer at the dealer getting looked at and fixed with a/c problems. One time they had it for 5 days trying to figure out what the problem was. Now that I'm out of warranty, I just make sure I dont drive it to work on a really hot day. My 4Rummer starts blowing ice cold air in seconds after turning it on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CoolBlueSS Posted May 19, 2008 Report Share Posted May 19, 2008 I don't use a machine, but I have a set of manifold gauges to do it. I read the pressure before just adding, because you can overcharge the system which will damage the compressor. You can't really get the high/low ports mixed up, as they are different sizes. Th=e kit that you bought should just have a fitting that will only fit on the low side. Also, check your condensor air flow, and/or fan clutch operation. That cancause it to get warm at idle or low speeds. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stitches040 Posted May 19, 2008 Report Share Posted May 19, 2008 I don't use a machine, but I have a set of manifold gauges to do it. I read the pressure before just adding, because you can overcharge the system which will damage the compressor. You can't really get the high/low ports mixed up, as they are different sizes. The kit that you bought should just have a fitting that will only fit on the low side. Also, check your condensor air flow, and/or fan clutch operation. That can cause it to get warm at idle or low speeds. I do it every year on my Beater. Really easy. Do pay attention to the Pressue guage, as Dwain has stated. An over perssurized system is not good. Also consider putting in a small can of AC oil/lube. If you use your system that much, a dose of lube is up it's alley too. I find that if your system is that low, usually I put in one lube, and two or three cans of 134A. But Take a reading on your pressure guage first. It should tell you what the optimal pressure range is. The connection port will only fit on the Low Side (again like Dwain has said) When putting the coolant in ... turn your AC on Max and your fan speed on high. That way you'll hear the compressor kick on, and it will circulate the coolant quicker. Hint: Leave the coolant and lube cans in the sun for about 30 mins. The pressure will be a little greater in the can, and will enter the system quicker. Sometimes the hose will freeze if the ambient temps are about the same. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
r8rs4lf Posted May 20, 2008 Author Report Share Posted May 20, 2008 I do it every year on my Beater. Really easy. Do pay attention to the Pressue guage, as Dwain has stated. An over perssurized system is not good. Also consider putting in a small can of AC oil/lube. If you use your system that much, a dose of lube is up it's alley too. I find that if your system is that low, usually I put in one lube, and two or three cans of 134A. But Take a reading on your pressure guage first. It should tell you what the optimal pressure range is. The connection port will only fit on the Low Side (again like Dwain has said) When putting the coolant in ... turn your AC on Max and your fan speed on high. That way you'll hear the compressor kick on, and it will circulate the coolant quicker. Hint: Leave the coolant and lube cans in the sun for about 30 mins. The pressure will be a little greater in the can, and will enter the system quicker. Sometimes the hose will freeze if the ambient temps are about the same. OK, that was a mouthfull!!! So is this kit any good or should I just take it in for a service? Like I said, it did come with a guage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
orion :: SS Posted May 20, 2008 Report Share Posted May 20, 2008 ...it seems like my AC doesn't blow cold or it takes a while to get going. In comparison to my wifes 06 Yukon XL, mine SUCKS! The Yukon blows hella cold fast. Ever consider that maybe it's airflow related? '06 Yukon probably has e-fans...does your SSS still have the factory clutch fan? More (constant) airflow over the condenser = colder A/C. Something to consider. - Brian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CoolBlueSS Posted May 20, 2008 Report Share Posted May 20, 2008 OK, that was a mouthfull!!! So is this kit any good or should I just take it in for a service? Like I said, it did come with a guage. I've seen those kits before, and I wouldn't trust it. You may want to to it to someone, or if you know someone with a set of gauges to look at it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
supradude123 Posted May 23, 2008 Report Share Posted May 23, 2008 Hey dude, I actually just changed out the ac on my 96 suburban (yeah i know lawl). Um, youve gotta check the pressure in the system before you put any in. Turn the engine on and run the ac on the highest possible. If the a/c clutch kicks in at all, then you know you have some refrigerant still in the system, and the pressure will probably be around 100 psi or so. If the ac clutch never spins, then your gonna need more than just 1 can of the stuff. And btw, there no such thing as R-134b lol, R-134a and R-12 (freon, from cars from like 95-below) are the only refrigerants available The low side should have a blue or black cap and the high side should have a red one..but dont put it in until you make sure. The high side runs well over 200 psi on a full charge. That'll blow crap up in your face or somthin. Yeah and your gonna want to get some flourescent dye for it. If theres no refrigerant left, then theres a leak somewhere because its supposed to be a closed system. And yeah, your gonna need to take it to a shop because they have the proper high/low side guages.. But yeah just post up a pic of your engine and ill tell you where to put it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wody Posted May 23, 2008 Report Share Posted May 23, 2008 Hey dude, I actually just changed out the ac on my 96 suburban (yeah i know lawl). Um, youve gotta check the pressure in the system before you put any in. Turn the engine on and run the ac on the highest possible. If the a/c clutch kicks in at all, then you know you have some refrigerant still in the system, and the pressure will probably be around 100 psi or so. If the ac clutch never spins, then your gonna need more than just 1 can of the stuff. And btw, there no such thing as R-134b lol, R-134a and R-12 (freon, from cars from like 95-below) are the only refrigerants available The low side should have a blue or black cap and the high side should have a red one..but dont put it in until you make sure. The high side runs well over 200 psi on a full charge. That'll blow crap up in your face or somthin. Yeah and your gonna want to get some flourescent dye for it. If theres no refrigerant left, then theres a leak somewhere because its supposed to be a closed system. And yeah, your gonna need to take it to a shop because they have the proper high/low side guages.. But yeah just post up a pic of your engine and ill tell you where to put it what the hell???? they teach HVAC in high school now? do they offer tests to get your 608 and 609 certs? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackbeast ss Posted May 23, 2008 Report Share Posted May 23, 2008 (edited) the safe way to charge a system is to weigh in the charge the sticker in your engine dept will tell you the amout it takes or by superheat and subcooling because if you overcharge the system you will get liquid refrigerant going back to you compressor and booooom their goes your compressor.another thing is if you have a leak in your low side you would want to pull a vacumm to 30 microns because if you run your system with non condensibles then you will get this nasty shit called asid and pretty much your whole system is crap.be verry carefull do it right the first time good luck Edited May 24, 2008 by blackbeast ss (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wody Posted May 23, 2008 Report Share Posted May 23, 2008 (edited) ...another thing is if you have a leak in your low side you would want to pull a vacumm to 30 microns... my pump and guages pull 31 microns Edited May 27, 2008 by WODY (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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