Krambo Posted June 4, 2008 Report Share Posted June 4, 2008 Well, I have been in contact with some of the top driveshaft builders in the country, played with numerous critical speed calculators and now I am 50/50 on doing a custom 2 piece in place of my stock AL driveshaft. The pro's are in agreement that a steel 2-piece DS with heavy duty u-joints are the best choice however having a steel shaft in the length of the stock AL one is not the best unless a two piece is fabbed up. I found one "pro" that said they can fab up a 4" steel one piece for me and high speed balance it (up to 7000RPM's) however it will weigh alot and MAY show signs of harmonic distortion at 6500 + RPM's. Denny's can do an aluminum shaft with better slip yolk and solid body U-joints however said they will have issues with the slip yolk and the AWD case. I would have to source that part. So I guess my question is where is the limit to the stock shaft? More so from an RPM limit rather than a HP limit. I know some of you have hit the shaft with some healthy power and RPM's A custom 2 piece, heavy duty, high speed balanced drive shaft will cost around $1000 when all said and done. I am not ready for dumping that much $$$ on a shaft when I will most likely do the 80E conversion and need a new different one anyway. I may just do some serious DS loops and cradles and see what happens Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
desrtrat Posted June 4, 2008 Report Share Posted June 4, 2008 there was a member here about 5+ yrs. ago who had his shaft come apart on his AV on a dyno. can't remember what the out come was, but he was looking for a custom shaft that would hold up to high RPM's...i think it was NAKED AV.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fireman31 Posted June 4, 2008 Report Share Posted June 4, 2008 (edited) Kelley Performance had a stock drive shaft come apart on a Tahoe that he was running on a dyno once, broke the fuel tank and the trans open and started a fire. If you can't find what you are looking for, loops would be the way to go in case of a breakage. Edited June 4, 2008 by Fireman31 (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zippy Posted June 4, 2008 Report Share Posted June 4, 2008 The stock driveshaft on the SSS is pretty damn tough. They have held up under some pretty high speeds on the dyno and street without failure. I've heard of the steel one's breaking, but to my knowledge nobody has had the aluminum one that comes on these trucks let go. With the 60' times already into the 1.60 range I'd say they are holding up pretty well on the launch and many have had them to 6k+ in third. I've even had many SSS's well over 130 and up to around 140+ range in overdrive wide open with no vibration issue's at all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wkdivr Posted June 4, 2008 Report Share Posted June 4, 2008 Might want to think of a front, and rear loop. That's what I did. Remember, the driveshaft runs right beside the fuel tank in these trucks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
12'SROCK Posted June 4, 2008 Report Share Posted June 4, 2008 have you looked into a CF shaft Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwalls54 Posted June 5, 2008 Report Share Posted June 5, 2008 I think a couple of ds loops will do it. it helps alot that the tcase is splitting the power. I would hold off on one. because you know in the back of your mind that your going to have to do the 80e Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
04CHASE Posted June 5, 2008 Report Share Posted June 5, 2008 yeah i agree. i say do some loops. but if you have plans of 11.5 or better which you do , your going to have to plan for the saftey requirments which is ds loops and a cage . but that is another thread. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sonickoolten Posted June 5, 2008 Report Share Posted June 5, 2008 have you looked into a CF shaft lol what a great salesman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stroked out Posted June 5, 2008 Report Share Posted June 5, 2008 you can make a CF shaft? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
12'SROCK Posted June 5, 2008 Report Share Posted June 5, 2008 (edited) lol what a great salesman lol. . . . .Nah TPIS (Tuned Port Induction Specalties) sells them for like $800 you can make a CF shaft?LOL. . . . .yeah right i wish Edited June 5, 2008 by 12'SROCK (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2004Denali Posted June 5, 2008 Report Share Posted June 5, 2008 (edited) the stock drive lines are only balanced to 105 mph from the factory. have have a steel 2-piece DS with heavy duty u-joints 4 in steel, cost 800.00 dollar Mark Edit, I will be putting hoops before I go above 15psi I am at 12 psi and 805 ft lbs of torque to all wheels and it is holding up. Edited June 5, 2008 by 2004Denali (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Krambo Posted June 5, 2008 Author Report Share Posted June 5, 2008 Thanks for the replies guys. I have had my current driveshaft to 6500RPM's in 3rd gear with 31 inch tires and 4:10's on the dyno many times and she did O.K. obviously (over 150MPH). I agree with the loops absolutely and since I will eventually need the 80E conversion, you guys may be right, a shaft upgrade now may be money wasted so to speak. With the AWD case able to bias all the power to the rear upon front spinning, I can see alot of TQ and power hitting the shaft (along with the other weak parts - 65E, rear) if I can't keep the fronts locked down. Since I will be buzzing through the higher RPM's rather quickly (not like a duno run) I feel a bit more comfortable with the stocker albeit I plan on 120's for trap speeds on the spray. I guess since I have down time, I am looking at all options for my build. Thanks for the suggestions and keep them rolling in! BTW, Denny's quoted just under 1k for a severe duty 3.5" 2 piece with solid u-joints and beefy yolks. That's alot of coin! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mean05 Posted June 5, 2008 Report Share Posted June 5, 2008 i wouldnt worry about the stock driveshafts really...i beat the piss out of mine and i really havent even thought of them breaking...maybe get solid u joints but thats bout it really...i consistantly cut 1.6x 60's and have hit 1.60, 1.61 a couple of times Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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