Jump to content

First Mod??


Maximus

Recommended Posts

Can any of you guys give me some idea on what could be my first mod to the SS? I was thinking about simply changing the stock muffler instead of an entire Cat-Back system, which would be expensive. Anyway all suggestions are welcomed. Thanks!! :chevy:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Heres a little check list and average prices:

1 Window tint 75.00

2 Handheld programmer 350.00~500.00

3 Spray in or Bed Rug liner around 350.00

4 Billet Bowtie ( for stock grill) around 30.00 or 70.00 from Shopman

5 New muffler (installed) around 100.00~ 225.00

6 Cat back system 450.00 ~ 900.00 ( what can you afford?)

7 Weather Tech vent visors around 65.00

8 Tonneau cover (Hard) 850.00, (soft, roll up) 400.00

9 Volant cold air induction (good mod) 350.00

10 Brushed or polished billet grill (bolt over) 250.00~350.00

 

That will get you started, but none are really cheap, at least not to me. I would tint the windows, and get a Bowtie for the grill. That makes a statement, the rest can come as you can afford it. A lot of the SSers with deep pockets (or empty credit cards) have put on Superchargers! (no offense guys) but that mod is out of my reach for a while, plus I'd never talk the wifey-poo into it! lol...

Keep us informed on what you've done!

Happy Shopping :cheers:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hey welcome, out of all the mods I have done on my truck I have like the best, I would have to suggest the **Transgo and servo kit** I think it has been the best mod for the buck so far. After that mod I have really enjoyed driving the truck. Talk to Joe at Jag Performance in San Antonio. it was like a 100 bucks or so!!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

This is the order my mods went in

  • Bedrug
  • Tinted Front Windows
  • Billet Grills
  • Shopman1's SS Engraved Billet Bowtie
  • Flowmaster Super 40 Dual Exhaust With X-Pipe
  • Nelson Performance Tune

I think my next mod will be a Transgo shift kit and Servo. (like the one SPEEDCRAVIN has) Just trying to decide if I want to install it myself or not. :confused:

 

 

-Matt

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I was thinking about simply changing the stock muffler instead of an entire Cat-Back system, which would be expensive. Anyway all suggestions are welcomed. Thanks!! :chevy:

yeah, i think that is a pretty worthwhile mod, just be sure to get something with a straigh through design if you want more power IE magnaflow... other wise go with whatever, i have also heard good stories about cams, although this is not really the easiest of boltons... hmm headers?? :thumbs:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 years later...
I,m new to this site, so pardon my mistakes. I've got a Transgo shift kit at my feet, a 4L60-E. I'm hesitant to get it installed due to conflicting feedback. Is it a considerable improvement, and a noticable difference? :confused:

A shift kit is not meant to be installed by itself; at minimum you also need the Vette 2nd-apply servo to deliver that no-nonsense shift. Even after changing the valve body parts you still need PCM reprogramming as well because the computer in the truck is adaptive, meaning that it will see the operating changes caused by the new shift kit parts and mistakenly try to "compensate" in effort to deliver that Cadillac-style shift.

 

Install the shift kit and servos together at the same time (save costs in labor); the Vette servo is only another $45 if memory serves. If you drive hard (lots of WOT 3-4 upshifting) a billet 4th servo is worth it.

 

I have that same shift kit + trans-go separator plate + Vette servo and PCM4Less tune and let me assure you when this truck hits 2nd you'd better be holding on to something; I don't allow the kids to have drinks in the truck. :D

 

Mr. P. :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

cheap mod,

 

antenna delete :P

 

 

 

good luck with the mods, its addicting

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

nixsupersport :cool:

:withstupid: That's actually not a bad idea, we get to talking powertrain stuff so much the other functional/style stuff gets forgotten. There's lots of stuff under a couple hundred dollars to do, if there's one thing I can do well it's spend other people's money. :D Some of the best stuff is just simple car-crafting:

 

* A bedrug is a fantastic purchase ($250-275) I just love mine, it's awesome. Dogs and kids love bedrugs.

 

* If you have an '03 or '04 SS then I would highly recommend upgrading the brakes, these trucks are really under-braked; stainless lines, aftermarket brake pads, ATE performance brake fluid ($350). Next step up is the Bear Alumasport kit, but this will get you by and even though the $350 is kinda expensive for a first mod you can do this in steps, i.e. do the brake lines & fluid first ($250), then later replace the stock pads with autocross pads ($150).

 

* Make sure you get all the factory recall stuff done (free).

 

* A 6-cyl Trailblazer torque converter (under $200) - this improves the snap of the truck so much it's a must-do mod, good balance between stock and racey (ask the forum about this mod if you intend to tow). Add a high-capacity transmission cooler as well ($100-135).

 

* A small suspension drop (1" front, 2" rear) will reduce the rake of the truck and look like it came from the factory that way - 1" lowering keys cost $100, 2" drop shackles cost $50 and even a non-mechanic can install both in 1-3 hours depending on your skills.

 

* Silvered turn signal bulbs only cost $10 and dramatically clean-up the front of the truck. While you're at it spend $2 at Radio Shack for diodes and do the 4-lamp hi-beam mod.

 

* Find a nicer set of luxury car horns at the wrecking yard for cheap.

 

* At your next oil change switch to synthetic motor oil. Look for Mobil1 5W-30 at walmart on sale (I actually prefer the Mobil1 0W-30 product, good stuff). There are several other synthetic oil companies, I'm also a big fan of AMSOil products.

 

* Get your PCM retuned; even though it's not a cheap mod ($250-350) it's worth every penny. If possible get whatever tranny/exhaust mods in you can before doing this.

 

* Consider a billet or chromed bowtie for the front of your truck ($50-100).

 

* Aftermarket grill ($100-300)?

 

* If you have a VHO/Silverado consider changing the plastic door handles for painted ones and remove the door-strike guards. You can also substitute the passenger door handle pocket for one off the pass rear door of an Escalade, it won't have the ugly/useless keyhole. If you want to keep the door strike guards then get chromed handles with painted handle buckets (looks sharp!).

 

* Buy a Zaino Bros show car detail kit, some microfibre towells, and go to town - the paint will reflect better than the glass (!) and there's enough product to last almost a year ($100-130).

 

* Buy VHT Night Shades spray paint and smoke your taillights and 3rd brake light (see the how-to).

 

* You can open your headlights and remove/paint the yellow turn-signal lenses for $20-25 in materials.

 

* In the winter months (Dec-Feb) a lot of body shops are starving for work to do, take your truck in and just ask what they would charge to relocate your tailgate handle, you'd be surprised at what they'd be willing to deal you. You very well might be able to have all those door dings repaired for cheapo diniero.

 

* Line-Of-Fire kit, under $75.

 

* Personalized license plates???

 

* 160-degree thermostat ($20-50) - do this in combination with PCM programming (refer to the how-to).

 

* If you drive like I do buy a Bel Vector radar detector at Best Buy ($200-300). Get a Bel Vector, Passport; if you have the budget the Valentine One is the best ($350).

 

 

And that's what I can think of right off the top of my head...

 

Mr. P. :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for taking the time to explain that, Mr. P!. It seems every mod effects something else. A local shop told me that if my trans was not in EXCELENT shape, that this mod would be the first thing to cause a failure? That worries me a bit for when I drop it in reverse, it catches a bit hard, and its a bit jumpy from stop to 1rst. These guys have installed them in the past, but are trying to steer away from it for liability puposes. I want to do it right the 1rst time if you know what I mean. :uhoh:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for taking the time to explain that, Mr. P!. It seems every mod effects something else.  A local shop told me that if my trans was not in EXCELENT shape, that this mod would be the first thing to cause a failure? That worries me a bit for when I drop it in reverse, it catches a bit hard, and its a bit jumpy from stop to 1rst. These guys have installed them in the past, but are trying to steer away from it for liability puposes.  I want to do it right the 1rst time if you know what I mean. :uhoh:

You just got told the typical disclaimer. Transmission specialists are trained in how to diagnose failed parts and how to remove/replace components, but very few have any idea how to actually re-engineer the shift behavior and they don't want to go there. If you want custom shift behavior you need to deal with someone that has sucessfully done this before. But there are a lot of high-stress trucks out there holding up well with a 4L60E so it is possible.

 

The factory shift calibration is designed for a Cadillac shift which is actually harder/more abusive on the internal friction materials; the primary reason to install the shift kit is not for the faster 1/4-miles times but to add life to the friction materials inside the case, especially with any kind of substantial HP increase. And these heavy-assed AWD trucks have it worst (lots of weight + 100% traction).

 

Back on point: an automatic tranny is a complete system, you need to reprogram all the shift behavior at the same time - this means replacing parts (both shift kit & servos) as well as computer programming (PCM tune) and increasing line pressure adjustment screw a tad. Keep asking around, you'll find a transmission guy that has good experience with this.

 

Mr. P.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for all the help, Mr. P. I dont think I could tango with your truck just yet. I was considering installing The Volant CAI (no scoop). I was looking at how the stock set-up is and I was wondering if I need to cut the intake opening of the truck body to fit the wide mouth of the Volant box. :dunno:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for all the help, Mr. P. I dont think I could tango with your truck just yet. I was considering installing The Volant CAI (no scoop). I was looking at how the stock set-up is and I was wondering if I need to cut the intake opening of the truck body to fit the wide mouth of the Volant box. :dunno:

Thanks for the compliment - my truck's not that fast :banghead: It's fun, not fast. Yet. :devil: The new Volant is a cool air box, I like the bolt-down lid and several guys have had engraved/personalized tops made. No I don't think it is necessary to cut up the fender to get the most from the volant, you're not inhaling that much air just yet. You can add the ram air plumbing later (or make your own).

 

Mr. P. :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

×
×
  • Create New...