VR4Rob Posted November 20, 2008 Report Share Posted November 20, 2008 (edited) Edit: problem solved Edited February 25, 2009 by VR4Rob (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hawks Posted November 21, 2008 Report Share Posted November 21, 2008 I have a Jaspers front diff in my 2004 ss. They may be on Crack but you get what you pay for. I don't see anyone else with this type of warranty. All Jasper does is take some other manufactors piece of sh@# and perfect it. They know all about GMs guff ups on the diffs. There sticker says (Remade in the USA) not Rebuilt in the USA. So the problem is now a thing of the past. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
speedfrk73z Posted November 21, 2008 Report Share Posted November 21, 2008 VR4Rob, you definitely have the same problem. That is quite a bit of metal in the oil. In my case I believe that if the locking tab would not have broken the IFS would still be functioning fine today. After inspection of my dismantled unit not every part in the unit was destroyed. It needed all new bearings, and seals. The case, carrier, axles, and side (spider) gears, were all fine. I did not want to spend all day rebuilding it, and purchasing all the tools to do it correctly. In the end I would have spent close to the 750.00 in tools, and parts. So I decided on the rebuilt unit. If I have any issues with the rebuild unit I'll post it here. 10.90@124mph Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
speedfrk73z Posted November 21, 2008 Report Share Posted November 21, 2008 Hawkman, I have used some of Jaspers products, and I'm not impressed. I hope you are right about them. Only time will tell. Don't forget to post here if you have any issues. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VR4Rob Posted November 21, 2008 Report Share Posted November 21, 2008 (edited) VR4Rob, you definitely have the same problem. That is quite a bit of metal in the oil. In my case I believe that if the locking tab would not have broken the IFS would still be functioning fine today. After inspection of my dismantled unit not every part in the unit was destroyed. It needed all new bearings, and seals. The case, carrier, axles, and side (spider) gears, were all fine. I did not want to spend all day rebuilding it, and purchasing all the tools to do it correctly. In the end I would have spent close to the 750.00 in tools, and parts. So I decided on the rebuilt unit. If I have any issues with the rebuild unit I'll post it here. What rebuilt unit did you end up going with? I have read several people talk about the locking tab... where is it and what do I need to look for? I'd like to poke around some more this weekend and do some further inspection on the diff. No kidding about all the metal in the oil. I'd poop a big old brick if that came out of my motor Edited November 21, 2008 by VR4Rob (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
speedfrk73z Posted November 21, 2008 Report Share Posted November 21, 2008 What rebuilt unit did you end up going with? I have read several people talk about the locking tab... where is it and what do I need to look for? I'd like to poke around some more this weekend and do some further inspection on the diff. No kidding about all the metal in the oil. I'd poop a big old brick if that came out of my motor VR4Rob, I ended up with the unit from Zumbrota Bearing and Gear for 750.00 plus shipping. The locking tab in located on the carrier preload nuts. Remove the IFS unit from the truck. Then remove the axle shaft on the driver side(Short side) of the IFS. Then remove the axle seal. You will then see the carrier preload nut. If the tab is still working it will be bent over the preload nut in between the raised notches of the nut (It keeps the nut from turning). If it is not there you will see the broken tab behind the axle seal when you remove it. The passenger side is more difficult to get to. You have to remove the axle. Then unbolt the axle tube, and remove it. Then you can see the carrier preload nut, and tab. I also have all of the torque specs for the 8.25 IFS (internal, and mounting) if you need them I can post them for you. Just an FYI. If you have a good working diff, and you change the oil in it at least every 25,000 miles. When you pull the plug to drain the diff the oil should be clean, and clear. It will have some metal shavings. The oil should not be black like the pictures you posted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
misterp Posted November 21, 2008 Report Share Posted November 21, 2008 ... I also have all of the torque specs for the 8.25 IFS (internal, and mounting) if you need them I can post them for you... That would be very helpful, if you post those values I am sure somebody in the future will search and use that info. Mr. P. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nevada79 Posted November 22, 2008 Author Report Share Posted November 22, 2008 WOW, alot of unhappy trucks... It's nice to see everyone posting up their finds: places to get reman units, their own problems, torque specs,symptoms,ect. This will be valuable information for anyone who might need an answer. Thanks everyone for their input. So far I have about 400-500 miles on my rebuild and will put another 3000 around C-mas time. I will update this thread if necessary. P.S. I have access to Mitchell on Demand and am a mechanic so if anyone had any questions i.e. assembly/disassasembly or specs just ask. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
speedfrk73z Posted November 22, 2008 Report Share Posted November 22, 2008 Nevada79, I have the torque specs on the 8.25 IFS for everyone I'm missing the ring gear to carrier bolt torque. If you could look that up and post it for everyone it would be appreciated. 8.25 IFS Torque Specs: Inner axle housing nuts (Passenger side axle tube): 100 Nm (75 lb ft) Diff carrier upper mounting bolt and nut: 100 Nm (75 lb ft) Diff carrier lower mounting bolt and nut: 100 Nm (75 lb ft) Axle shaft to drive shaft bolts: 79 Nm (58 lb ft) Vent Hose Connector: 28 Nm (21 lb ft) Drain and Fill plug: 33 Nm (24 lb ft) Diff carrier case bolts: 47 Nm (35 lb ft) Axle tube to diff case: 40Nm (30 lb ft) Backlash: 0.13-0.18 mm (0.005-0.007 in) Diff carrier adjuster nut (Preload): 75 Nm (55 lb ft) Pinion rotating torque new bearings: 1.7-3.4 Nm (15-30 lb in) Pinion rotating torque old bearings: 1.0-2.3 Nm (10-20 lb in) Rotating torque for diff and pinion assembly new Bearings: 3.4-6.2 Nm (30-55 lb in) Rotating torque for diff and pinion assembly old Bearings: 2.8-5.1 Nm (22-45 lb in) Ring gear to carrier bolts: (I could not find this one) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nevada79 Posted November 22, 2008 Author Report Share Posted November 22, 2008 Thanks Speedfrk73z. 8.25 IFS Torque Specs (cont.) : Ring Gear Bolts: 120 Nm (88 lb ft) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Tim Posted November 25, 2008 Report Share Posted November 25, 2008 I had the same problem with mine a week after I bought it, at 35000 miles in december 2007. Mine was, luckily, still under dealer warranty. The dealer charged about 950.00 for the rebuild. I would like to see if Currie or someone makes a better differential. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joe2004ss Posted December 1, 2008 Report Share Posted December 1, 2008 just got mine saturday i also hear that noise in the front end dont know if should change the fluids to try to quiet it down or just wait an see what happens cash is low right now might have to wait till after the holidays Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merc Dr. Posted December 2, 2008 Report Share Posted December 2, 2008 Mine goes in Friday. I took it in two weeks ago and they said the pinion bearing was making noise. I go in for ACL surgery Friday so they will dig into the truck while I'm laid up and see if anything else is wrong in there. Luckily I bought an extended warranty with my truck. I'll post in about a week or so when I get the final diagnosis. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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