hawks

Wheatley never said what temp he would lower them to, but he said he would lower the temp. He sent me an email a told me that he programmed it thinking it was the stock 180 that i had. So since I have the 160 stat he is going to change the on and off temps.

Well I finally installed the electric fans today that I bought from Gasemall over a year ago. Bought a 250 amp alternator to take care of the fans and the sterio system I have. Replaced the fan belt and ac belt while I was in there. The alternator I had was a 105 amp and the 250 amp alternator actually had 145 stamped on it. So I had to run back to the parts store and get the next size belt which was a Gates K060930 (93 5/8"). Started it up and waited until around 190 degrees and nothing happens. So I get with Wheatley and he tells me they should come on at 200. So I go back out and let it heat up until 200 and then they came on. I thought I had something going wrong and checked and everthing was good. Just didn't wait long enough. I told Charlie that these temps seem high to me with a 160 stat, so he is going to reprogram me another one with lower temps. Other than that everthing is good.

Go to the "How to section" on replacing thermostat, by Mr.P

Make sure you burp the system, could have a hot spot. If you have the stock thermostat 210 sounds right. Mine ran at that temp before I changed to a lower stat.

Bump Has anyone else installed fuses with there non-GM harness?

Looking at a GM print it shows 2- 40 amp fuses. Did you do 2 or just 1 main fuse to feed both.

Hey guys. I have the blackbear efan harness. I noticed there is no fuse protection for the fans. The red wire is labeled to go to the post where the fusble link is (small red box). My thought is wouldn't you want fusible protection is case of a short. I thought about installing 2 - 40 amp fuses for the fans(1 each). What do guys that have changed over to efansthoughts on this. Am I brewing to much into this?

Well after looking hi and low could not find these. Gm and Dorman could not and would not get these for me. So Justin pops up and saves the day. Just wanted to let everyone and Justin know this is great guy to deal with and didn't even charge me 1 red cent. They may not be worth $5.00 but it was worth 30.00 to me, but still he would not even let me pay for the shipping. To Justin thanks or all your help and it was great doing business with you. Thanks Chris

Yes sir I will. Thanks

Thanks Mike. I'm not having any luck. I even called Dorman to see if they could get me 2 of the isolators and still no luck. If anyone has these please let me know. I'm not going to install these fanswithout the rubber isolators.

Does anyone have the 2 rubber grommets that go in the top corners of the e-fan shroud. I purchased a set of e-fans but doesn't have the rubber grommets. Went to a GM dealer and they say they can't get them, I would have to buy the whole assy, fans and all. I can get the bolts but not the grommets. Let me know if you have anything guys. Thanks Chris

Ok gotcha. Hell even Ray Charles could of seen that. I guess I should took one more step and removed cover. Does this cover snap on? Thanks for your help.

I didn't see any, is the number on the front where it connects to the pcm or where the wires go into the front of the plug (under plastic cover). How does the plastic cover come off so I can plug in the wires. Thanks for the help. Chris

Bump...Anyone

I know what pin numbers I need, I jut need to make sure that they go into the right pin holes. So if I had a photo showing the front of the plug and where #1 pin is I can do the rest

Going to start with my e-fan install but need a little info. Are the plugs on the pcm numbered? I have a layout of the plug but I can't tell from the photo which pin starts at 1. If I knew this there wouldn't be any problem. I looked at it today but didn't see any numbers. Also how does the wire cover come off the plug without breaking it. Any input would be great.

I'm from TN but West TN.

This should be the first mod you do. Biggest bang for the buck. You want be sorry.

Alot of your bouncing is coming from the removed leaf spring. If it was me I would put it back in. Just my 2 cents worth.

Yep!! Thought the same thing. Here ya go!

I here on that!!!. I have 2 boys actually. This one here and the other is 18 and Graduating next month. Yep!!! 18 years later and starting over again. Oh well I will enjoy life as long as it lets me. I'm 41 now and counting.

Well been pretty busy here lately trying to get the new back seat navigation center fitted in. I believe it's going to work out great. It has every option I have ever wanted. Before to long I will be downloading the SS performance package to him. Hudson Storm Hawks 4-11-11 8'3 @21" long

Well found my problem and could be the same for yours. It was the front shocks. Had belltech performer shocks on it. You said you had a 2" drop spindle, did you also put a 2" drop shock on it. Theoretically a 2" drop spindle is nothing more than moving the bearing up the spindle 2 inches. There is no need in a 2" drop shock. If you did a 2" coil spring then sure you would need a 2" drop shock. That is what lead me to the shocks. Also the bell tech shocks felt wore out. You could stand with your arms out straight and collapse the shock. The new Monroes I purchased you have to put them on a hard surface and set on them to get them to collapse. So what was going on was the shocks had no control over the bumps in the road and let the suspension to do what it pleased. Hope this helps.

When you exit out the rear. Are you going with mandrel bent pipe or is someone bending on a machine for you. Every crimp you have in the pipe is lost HP, torque whatever. I did all mandrel and exited out in front of rear tire.

Just remember exhaust is nothing but a bouncing wave. The more chambers that you have to go thru the more restrictive it will be and in return will kill your performance.