70chevy03ss Posted January 27, 2009 Report Share Posted January 27, 2009 I replaced my sway are bushings and sway arms. Def difference. now I need tie rods and wheel bearings and shocks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rwoodards Posted January 27, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 27, 2009 I replaced my sway are bushings and sway arms. Def difference. now I need tie rods and wheel bearings and shocks Man, was your truck making alot of noise? My truck only has 32k on it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
70chevy03ss Posted January 27, 2009 Report Share Posted January 27, 2009 Well first was the "Clunk" steering shaft. Next was every time I hit the speed bumps at work with the driver side first I would feel something clunk from the front to the back of the truck under my feet. My buddy and I looked and the sway arm bushing were shot and I had the sway arm links so we did those too. I have needed tie rods for a while so I will do those when I am not plowing snow or when its not so dam cold out. At that point I will just replace the idler arm maybe the pitman arm not sure. Gm's idler arms do go so.... Also I have been getting a growl noise when I hit the gas so I have been lead to believe it's the bearings. I can get those for 180 at NAPA so I guess I will start on the drive side.. The shocks are SH&* from the get go and it's time to replace. And it doesn't help when my buddies and I go for a " Joy ride" and they take me down the worst roads in New England that my shocks sux sorry for the rant Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rwoodards Posted January 28, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 28, 2009 Well first was the "Clunk" steering shaft. Next was every time I hit the speed bumps at work with the driver side first I would feel something clunk from the front to the back of the truck under my feet. My buddy and I looked and the sway arm bushing were shot and I had the sway arm links so we did those too. I have needed tie rods for a while so I will do those when I am not plowing snow or when its not so dam cold out. At that point I will just replace the idler arm maybe the pitman arm not sure. Gm's idler arms do go so.... Also I have been getting a growl noise when I hit the gas so I have been lead to believe it's the bearings. I can get those for 180 at NAPA so I guess I will start on the drive side.. The shocks are SH&* from the get go and it's time to replace. And it doesn't help when my buddies and I go for a " Joy ride" and they take me down the worst roads in New England that my shocks sux sorry for the rant Yeah I think I may be facing multiple problems as well. Steering and diff and maybe other front end components. The shocks are bilstein, so they should be good to go. The thing is that it seemed to happen over a short period. The previous owner Justin took really good care of it. I have taken good care as well and have not been ragging on it or anything. The only difference is that I drive it more frequently. I just think 30k miles was the magic number. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zippy Posted January 28, 2009 Report Share Posted January 28, 2009 Sounds like a ring and pinion issue, but could also be transfercase chain, rear u-joint on the front shaft, or the mount between the transfercase and the crossmember. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rwoodards Posted January 29, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 29, 2009 Sounds like a ring and pinion issue, but could also be transfercase chain, rear u-joint on the front shaft, or the mount between the transfercase and the crossmember. Thanks for the input, back on the lift tomorrow to check things out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BmanSS Posted January 29, 2009 Report Share Posted January 29, 2009 At first there was nothing then the noise sounded as if it was coming front the front diff, almost like the axle spun freely for a split second then caught. Please any info would be greatly appreciated Rob By what you just described it sounds like the Viscious clutch in transfer case is going bad,drain fluid if its looks like some bad grease or a silver color thats your problem.if you catch it in time you can change it with out replacing the whole unit.The viscous clutch works like a limited slip diff if that helps Good luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rwoodards Posted January 29, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 29, 2009 (edited) By what you just described it sounds like the Viscious clutch in transfer case is going bad,drain fluid if its looks like some bad grease or a silver color thats your problem.if you catch it in time you can change it with out replacing the whole unit.The viscous clutch works like a limited slip diff if that helps Good luck My thoughts were initially with the transfer case. When I first put it up on the lift the transfer case seemed to have a little slop in it when changing the direction of rotation on the driveshaft with the trans in neutral. It this normal? I am unfimiliar with the tolerances of an AWD vehicle. Thanks for the valued input, keep it coming gang Edited January 29, 2009 by rwoodards (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rwoodards Posted February 9, 2009 Author Report Share Posted February 9, 2009 (edited) So, I put the truck back on the lift on Friday. Following MR. P's how to, I purchased fluid for the front diff(Mobil 1 75w-90 GL5) and transfer case (Auto Trak II), as well as fluids for an oil change. I entered this experience with the notion that either I was going to have to replace/rebuild the diff or the transfer case. Well I started off with the transfer case. Remembering that the "How to" section called for about 2qts, I pulled the drain plug and much to my suprise, out came less than 12 oz of fluid. I new instantly that there was no chance that this thing was just gonna need fluid. Not much metal came out with the entire 12 - oz of fluid so I figured I better use my extra 1qt to flush the case cuz I knew it had to be packed with shavings. Not much came out so I stuck a magnet in the drain hole to see what would come out The magnet came out looking like this 3 or more times, then there was substantially less. Next up was the front diff, pulled the plug Yeah I'm fooked! Guess a rebuild is instore. The good thing is that I think my front bearings are shot too I didn't even have the heart to pull the starter to have a look, I figured with my luck that it would be messed up as well. Oh well, so goes the story of Hot Rods. Drive break fix!! If anyone is getting rid of a transfer case I'm in the market unless someone has other suggestions??? I think I'm gonna have 4wheel Parts in Jacksonville rebuild my front diff, they said they would do it for $700 with everything. Any input or suggestions on a further course of action, please chime in-Thanks!!! Edited February 9, 2009 by rwoodards (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cadillacbob Posted February 9, 2009 Report Share Posted February 9, 2009 I have done my diffs and transfers case fluids 3 times...I get shavings on the front magnet (although less) every time I change the fluid...I have over 122k on my truck, and no big noises...although I have had the front wheel bearings replaced with GM bearings 4 times, I will regrettably use non-GM wheel bearings next time......just my .02... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
70chevy03ss Posted February 9, 2009 Report Share Posted February 9, 2009 (edited) diff bearings easy fix only cost ya 50 60 bucks. alittle bit of metal isn't all that bad from what i have heard. I didn't have any with only 91K and i don't drive like an old lady either. So I was expecting metal.. Edited February 9, 2009 by Sick03ss (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rwoodards Posted February 13, 2009 Author Report Share Posted February 13, 2009 Thanks guys, any other input? Anyone got a transfer case or had one rebuilt? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rwoodards Posted May 23, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 23, 2009 I wanted to rap my post up as I have found the problem and fixed it. First of all thanks to all those who gave input towards the tedious trouble shooting. I would also like to thank 4 Wheel Parts located in Jacksonville Fl on 103rd ST. These guys brought my truck into their shop and put it on jack stands to help me do some trouble shooting, FOR FREE! It turns out that the problem was my transfer case, changed it and the problem is fixed. I purchased my transfercase from the dealership for about $1150 with a warranty. I had it installed by 4 Wheel Parts for pretty cheap and they changed all of my u-joints for the same price that quoted for the transfer case(both front and rear driveshafts). I didnt do the swap myself because I have been strapped for time with work and needed it done. In conclusion my problem is fixed, If you have a similar problem then I would review this entire topic to reviews others inputs, hope this helps the next guy. Rob Also Check this out if you think your t-case viscous coupler is bad: http://www.wtfba.org/temp/NVG-149.pdf hope this helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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