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Need A New Tensioner


ANGRYGREG

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Washed my truck this morning. I took it for a spin around the block to get some water off and my tensioner snapped in half, the belt and tensioner fell on the ground about three houses down from mine.

 

Is there a better aftermarket tensioner that someone could recommend or should I just call magnacharger. I live in socal and obviously can't go anywhere until I get a new one so if someone knows a local shop that might have on that would help too.

 

Also got a service brake booster code and the power steering stopped working. WTF..

 

Thanks for the help..

 

Greg

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Washed my truck this morning. I took it for a spin around the block to get some water off and my tensioner snapped in half, the belt and tensioner fell on the ground about three houses down from mine.

 

Is there a better aftermarket tensioner that someone could recommend or should I just call magnacharger. I live in socal and obviously can't go anywhere until I get a new one so if someone knows a local shop that might have on that would help too.

 

Also got a service brake booster code and the power steering stopped working. WTF..

 

Thanks for the help..

 

Greg

i got one from magnacharger of my radix 112 with about 13k miles pm me if interested......
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I want a stronger one so this doesn't happen again

 

 

ok then magna chargere is your only option I guess...they have that beafier one.....It has only happened to me once and it was from flooring it and letting off real quick...thats a no no for tensioner life..lol

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If you buy the Dayco replacement, they have a 1 year warrenty. SAVE THE RECEIPT as you most likely will be back for another one.

 

I believe the tensioner is for a 97 Ford F150 with the 300cid strait 6. Part numbers are linked in the above posts.

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A couple of other part numbers I've copied down for a rainy day:

 

Gates 38131 Belt Tensioner Assembly. - Comes with a plastic smooth pulley. I removed it to make way for the steel grooved wheel. The radix supplied tensioner mounting bolt works fine. Removing the plastic sleeve from the locating pin is required. When removing the plastic pulley brace the tensioner carefully because the bolt is tough to break loose. $39.79

 

Gates 36100 Belt Tensioner Pulley. - Steel 75mm 6 Rib steel with 17mm bearing bore. $23.06

 

Gates 38042 Idler Pulley. - Steel 90mm Smooth/Backside, 17mm Bearing Bore with 10mm adapter (not used, the radix standoff replaces it). $16.64 - This took some adjustment on mine. Maybe there are other part numbers that will not need the adjustment, or yours will align better, I dunno.

The Radix pulley spacer or mounting standoff had the pulley too far outward allowing some belt to be off of the pulley's backside (about 3mm). Being a machinist I took 5/32 or 4mm off the Radix bushing/standoff for a perfect alignment.

 

I also agree with an above post, that jumping in and out of the throttle will and what causes most of the damage to the tensioners. I tend to roll out of the throttle and have not broken a tensioner in 3 years. A friend of mine is always horsing his around and has broken about three tensioners in a little over a year’s time.

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  • 2 weeks later...
http://katechengines.com/katech_inc/

 

 

Billet Belt Tensioner KAT-A4426-BLK For Silverado, Sierra, Tahoe, Yukon and SSR

 

this is right from Katech web site for the tensioner *Not recommend for use on supercharged engines unless the supercharger has a dedicated drive

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you CANNOT use manual tensioners such as the katech and comp on supercharged motors.

 

there are two options- NAPA or mangacharger's 8 rib

the napa is like 40 bucks less if i recall, maybe more. its a direct fit, just swap the idler over. the one in the pic above, from magnacharger, is the only tensioner that will not break again

 

ive gone through 5 or so of those lousy dayco's. trust me, its worth the money

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