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Raising torsion bars


adams2003

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Hey guys, I have the Mcgauphy's spindles, shackles and hangers and im thiinking about putting the rear on one setting up and raising the front a little using the torsion bars to get a better ride. Do you guys think this will improve the ride quality of my truck? Is there any differences in the truck when you raise the front using the torsion bars?

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It kind of depends... Where are the torsion bar adjuster bolts located now? (in relation to one of the sides of the crossmember they sit between?)

 

I've been messing with mine DAILY, trying to get a better ride out of my stock suspended truck. I found that they are very very picky as to where they like to be, in regards to side to side ride height, and feel driving down the road. It seems as though a 1/4th of a turn is enough to throw the preload of one side off, and make it feel a little funny going down the road. Then again, I'm a huge, HUGE perfectionist with this stuff. ;)

 

I'd recommend getting an alignment once you touch anything... A 1/4" change in fender to ground height, is enough to make things noticeable in the steering wheel...

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Torsion bar adjustment dynamics: Turn so truck goes up, ride stiffens; Turn so truck goes down, ride loosens. This applies to whether you use the adjustment bolts or keys, no difference with either method, other than you save threads on the adjustment bolts with the keys.

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An odd thing I've found...

 

Say your drivers side adjuster is (a good amount) too tight... Your passenger side will likely want to RISE HIGHER than the drivers side. It's like "quantum torsion bar dynamics" or somthing. :crazy: ;) (I have no idea)

 

The loose side will send you very confusing signals while driving. Sometimes it will be high, others it will be low.

 

Even though the 'tight side' may be sitting lower than the 'loose side', you'd need to pull a little out of the tight side, and add some to the loose side. The only way to really tell which is tight and which is loose is by driving it a lot, and getting a feel as to how each corner of the truck reacts to bumps and dips in the road. It can be quite difficult at times.

 

When this odd behavior happenens, I find it best to pull about 6 turns out of the bolts and start from scratch on a nice level piece of real estate. I shoot for 35.25" from (front) fender to ground. I err on the side of 35".

 

It seems as though the proportioning of each bolt is 3/4 for that side of the truck, and a 1/4 for the other side.

 

Usually.

 

Somtimes a crank to one side will make that one rise, and the other side sink. You'll know you're close to being perfectly balanced when you hit this area of adjustment.

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FWIW, I often have problems with my passenger side adjustment. It's the one that's extremely hard to get balanced out. When I feel as though it has the proper amount of preload, it LOVES to rise upwards of 35.5 to 35.75" at times. This drives me absolutely NUTS.

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Just found something very interesting.

 

When turning IN the torsion bar adjusters, it's a REAL good idea to raise the wheels off the ground during adjustment.

 

Simply cranking the bolts will raise the ride height, but something doesn't quite sit correctly until the wheel is completely unweighted and the truck lowered back down. No amount of driving seems to sort this out on it's own.

 

Example, I had 35.2" before raising/lowering... 35.8" after raising/lowering.

 

This looks like it's clearing up A LOT of the mind-boggling headaches (above posts) I've been dealing with in leveling out the truck.

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