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Billet Output Shaft Busted


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Shaun, a guy can build great transmissions to perform flawlessly, but every part has a breaking point, and that's not the builder's fault. You can test the limits if you wish, but the route you appear to be going tells me you're gonna wind up stranded somewhere one day soon when your build is done. I snapped a hardened input shaft with just my radix and a small shot of juice on stock cubes. You should have built yours stronger from the get go if you planned on doing more and more engine mods. Now you're gonna have to drop it again and have it rebuilt.

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Shaun, a guy can build great transmissions to perform flawlessly, but every part has a breaking point, and that's not the builder's fault. You can test the limits if you wish, but the route you appear to be going tells me you're gonna wind up stranded somewhere one day soon when your build is done. I snapped a hardened input shaft with just my radix and a small shot of juice on stock cubes. You should have built yours stronger from the get go if you planned on doing more and more engine mods. Now you're gonna have to drop it again and have it rebuilt.

First off, Dad, I hadn't planned on going further than I was until I came across a steal of a deal. Secondly, Dozer is on his FLT level 5 trans behind his F1R 408, so it must have been built by God, right?

 

ur smoking crack son

 

see above post

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Guys, there are a host of "billet steel" shafts that are no stronger than stock. Alot of companies say the shaft is "billet" to lure you in and spend more money. It all depends on the quality of the alloy they are machined from. While there is a ton of different alloys to choose from, best bet is to ask if the shaft meets or exceeds 300m specifications (maraging alloy 300). Shop around and see what shafts you find. If they are truely a 300M spec shaft, they will be sure to advertise it over a cryo treated part.

 

To the OP, if you snapped a true 300m Billet output shaft, you did good!!! I would expect other parts to fail first.

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Guys, there are a host of "billet steel" shafts that are no stronger than stock. Alot of companies say the shaft is "billet" to lure you in and spend more money. It all depends on the quality of the alloy they are machined from. While there is a ton of different alloys to choose from, best bet is to ask if the shaft meets or exceeds 300m specifications (maraging alloy 300). Shop around and see what shafts you find. If they are truely a 300M spec shaft, they will be sure to advertise it over a cryo treated part.

 

To the OP, if you snapped a true 300m Billet output shaft, you did good!!! I would expect other parts to fail first.

 

this was my point

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  • 2 weeks later...

I agree with Kevin. Make sure they put a 300M shaft back in there. Many shops sell you a shaft and all they are selling you is a polished 70E output shaft. The 300M shaft is very strong and very, very rare to see a breakage. Normally the billet shafts don't break like that, they usually look like you cut them in half with a saw.

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