Hid Headlights For Our Trucks

[pedronovales]

Hi there! I'm an importer and distributor of HID in Guatemala, Central America. I can tell you that HID will work great on you factory housing, just lower the beam so you don't bother people in front of you. IMO go with digital slim ballast, 6000K, 35 watts. Buy just for the low lights (9006), you won't feel the need to use hi beam. If later you want to buy the hi beam (9005) i'll suggest you get the 4-hi conversion kit, so you'll have lows and highs on at the same time, but with this you have to change the fuses. Any other question I'm at your help.

[90zxdriver]

Whats the deal with the slim ballasts vs. the normal size ones? One better than the other? Last longer? Brighter?

[bigreds10]

Whats the deal with the slim ballasts vs. the normal size ones? One better than the other? Last longer? Brighter?

 

there just thinner and smaller than the normal ballast. it mainly for cars that have tight space but our trucks have plenty of room for the normal size. i just got the thin 55w cause its cool. i do also have the quad beam headlight conversion(no fuse change) havent blown a fuse yet been a year so far. with just my lows and fog 55w HIDs on it puts more light out then just the low and high.

[pedronovales]

The main difference between slim and normal ballast (besides the size) it's the lifetime and the warranty. With normal ballast I've had to replace about 1.5% because of warranty, compared to 0.5% with slim ballast.

As for changing fuses: normal halogen headlight (55 watts) use about 4.8 amps. Your fuse for every light is a 10 amp. That gives plenty of room (if you want to use a 100 watt halogen headlight).

HID when starting (the first 2-3 seconds) use 6 amp. When fully lighted they only use 3 amp. Still enough room to 10 amp. The problem is when you connect the 4Hi conversion kit. It uses the low headlight as the main cable. So, here's the example: You turn your light on on and you have the hi-beams on, in that moment (2-3 seconds) your HID will be pulling 12 AMP (6 from the low + 6 from the hi), that is a little more than the 10 amp fuse can take. In normal use: you turn the lights on and normaly you have the low beam (only 6 amp in the begining, 3 amp after 3 seconds). Then you turn on the hi beam (6 amp first, then 3 amp.) Let's do the math: 3 Amp from the low + 6 Amp for the starting hi beam = 9 AMP, you are below 10 Amp fuse. Recommendation: if you are not changing the fuse, try not to turn on your 4 headlights with HID at the same time (first lows, then the 4). Or get a 15 Amp fuse. You decide.

 

Other important notes:

1.-HID work at lower temperature than normal halogen (your headlights won't melt).

2.- With HID (normal instalation, no 4HI conversion kit), you save a couple amp, that can help for a little more power for an amplifier (if you are into sound systems).

3.- 55 watts HID give you 10% more light than 35 watts HID, but the life of the bulb is sacrifice by 40%.

4.- 35 watts HID give 3 times more light than 55 watt halogen, that's like if you had a 165 watt halogen (that would melt your headlight in about 15 minutes).

5.- HID are supposed to work betweeen 2500-3000 hours. That is one year of use, using it 7 hours daily. Or (as average people), 2 hours daily for 3 1/2 years. To tell you the truth, the longest HID I've had (working 24 hours a day), gave me 2200 hours. Anyhow, that is a lot.

 

If any questions or suggestions, feel free to write.

[90zxdriver]

Thanks for all the replies. I was all set to order these until today when I found out how bad I really need to do brakes in the truck. Now my HID money will be going into brakes and a alignment (see my post in the brake section).