pedronovales

I had the same problem, broke the mirror, but everything else was fine, so I bought one mirror from ebay, I think it was around $50, here it's the link http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mirror-Glass-CHEVY-GM-Passenger-Right-Side-POWER-SIGNAL-/231042527519?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item35cb35311f&vxp=mtr To install it just clean the plastic base, and the new one bring double sided tape, I put a little extra black silicone to be sure. That was 3 years ago, and still working fine. Hope it helps

I wrote yesterday on the other thread, please let me know about the shipping and paypal. And what's the best price you would consider? Thanks

Do you still have the wheels? If Yes, I would appreciate if you could find out, how much for shipping to Miami (I'm from Guatemala, I'll get them shipped from MIami to Guatemala). Other thing, do you take PayPal? Thanks.

It didn't fit before

I found this pictures from 2 of the "400SS" I had. 1.- The green one a 2003, 5.3. 2.- The red one, all debaged, even took of the 400SS sticker (if it ain't a 400 don't call it a 400), also a 5.3

To get the Chevys V8 down here we got 2 options. 1.- Buy it from the dealer. In the truck line they are only bringing Avalanches and Colorados since 2005. And in the SUV's Tahoes and Suburbans. 2.- Bring it (imported) from the US. This is what I did with the Silverado SS and the 2500HD. SO we don't get to see so many 2005-2013 Silverdos down here .

Diggerdan11: don't worry, I didn't get it wrong. I knew what you meant with the Mexican front end. There are always some differences between Latin American market and USA market. Let me give you some differences: 1.- Mexican assembly suburbans from 2004-2006 got different front end, but engine and interior the same (LS an LT options). 2.- Silverado 2000 (like the one in picture 4), it's called Cheyenne, it's built in USA for the Latin American market, and it has the 5.7 Vortec engine. From 2001 all got either the 4.8 or the 5.3. 3.- All the Avalanches 1500 were Mexican built. 4.- Sonora (only RWD option) it's the same as the Tahoe. 5.- Between 1997 and 2004 there was an option for the Latin American market for the single cab Silverado to be called the 400SS. From 1997 to 2000 they had the 5.7 and from 2001-2004 the 5.3. I had 3 of those. They all were USA built. There are another ones with differences, it depends on what the market is asking for. By the way, I'm from Guatemala not Mexico. Guatemala is the country next to Mexico. Hope I cleared some questions. Best regards

NICE!!! the kind of picture I like to see.

5.- 2004 Silverado 2500HD, 2004 suburban (already in picture 2), and the 2003 SS As you can see I'm a big fan of Chevrolet. I'll try to post some pictures of the trucks I've had before but that are gone.

4.- 2001 Silverado Z71 and 2000 Silverado

I've had some chevy trucks over the years, here are some pictures of the ones I have right now. 1.- Chevy Avalanche Z71 2003 2.- Chevy Suburban 2004 (this front end was made only to Latin American market). 3.- Chevy Suburban 400 1976

Highway 16 City 12 Average since I bought it (30,000 miles) has been 13.4

+1 blue 2003 down in Guatemala, Central America

Chemical Engineer with MBA. Running own business, persian lime production and growing cattle. Also Financial Manager at a Hospital (father's business).

Thanks for the comments!!!! The hard work it's finally paying off!!! The pictures were taken with a BB (poor quality), I'll take some with my camera. Here it's another one with the SS parked infront (the SS still running on 17's due to the bad roads here in Guatemala. Also a picture of my wife's suburban.

Here are 2 more pictures. Still have to buy new taillights and signal lights (but those are just lillte things).

This is as 1976 chevy suburban, with a 400 engine. It belong to my father in law (he bought it 30 years ago) and had it stored. I decided to start rebuilding it, and that was 4 years ago. Finally today, it's almost done. Still have to do some of the interior rug, and the A/C, but all other has been changed or rebuilt. Took it for a small ride today, and it is a great truck, incredible how solid this truck feels. Well, just wanted to share, any suggestions are welcome.

Hi there. I'm from Guatemala, Central America. Prices keep up in the States. DOwn here, I tried to sell my 03 SS with 75K about 6 months ago, and the best offer I recieved was $10K. I would have sold it for $12K, but not for $10K, so I still have it and enjoying it.

Hi there, I'm from Guatemala, Central america. Prices here are aroun $4.10/gal. All my cars are chevy's V8. I'm seriously thinking on buying a 4 cyl car as a DD, and park the trucks for the weekends. On the other hand, when gas prices are this high, V8's start to go really cheap, so it's a good time to buy. Chevy used dealers already calling to offer me some suburbans and some trucks, with at least 20% off . I think I'll wait a few more weeks before buying another V8. I'll let you know. Jajaja, Just got off the phone with one person offering me a 2003 2500 HD V8 6.0 extended cab GMC Sierra 90K miles fully loaded for $11K, what you guys think. He'll be sending some pictures.

Hi there, I'm from outside US, I'm from Guatemala. In my first years I was also a VW fan, they were pretty good cars and reliable. Then came GM and since then it has been GM. I've had a 96 and a 98 (2 door) tahoe, a 98 silverado, a 2003 silverado, 96 Cavalier, 01 cavalier, all sold. Now I have a 98 suburban, 2001 silverado 4X4, 03 SSS, 04 Silverado 4X2, 03 Avalanche, and a 76 suburban (it's under project). I'll post some pictures of them. All I can tell these cars are trully good, you can notice all of them are V8's. I can consider on buying a german turbo car, example Audi or VW 1.8T or 2.0T, they seem to be pretty good down here.

Mine is a 2003 has 65K miles, it does 16 mpg on the road, 12 mpg on city. Average since I bought it 13.3 mpg. Only Air Intake.

Definetly a SCAM! I had the same BS from a guy last year, with a Suburban. Said he was in England (stationed there with the army), and would ship the suburban to any state. He wanted miney wire transfer. I Carfaxed the suburban and it was a completely different info. Be careful!!!!. Spend your $25 in CarFax, it pays.

No. They give average dust (less than raybestos). But anyway, I try to clean my trucks regurarly (twice a week).

I had the same problem with my suburban. No matter what I did to the brakes, the car just wouldn't stop. I actually was thinking of buying those vented discs from Stillen (lot of money). Until a friend told me to try the Hawk Performance Super Duty pads. So I did, they run about $100 (which is a little pricy for pads). They worked awesome, the Suburban was stoping like a little car. Since then those are the only pads I put in all my cars. And by the way, they last 3 times more than other brands. I suggest you try them, and also check your discs if they still have some metal in them. Hope this helps.

The main difference between slim and normal ballast (besides the size) it's the lifetime and the warranty. With normal ballast I've had to replace about 1.5% because of warranty, compared to 0.5% with slim ballast. As for changing fuses: normal halogen headlight (55 watts) use about 4.8 amps. Your fuse for every light is a 10 amp. That gives plenty of room (if you want to use a 100 watt halogen headlight). HID when starting (the first 2-3 seconds) use 6 amp. When fully lighted they only use 3 amp. Still enough room to 10 amp. The problem is when you connect the 4Hi conversion kit. It uses the low headlight as the main cable. So, here's the example: You turn your light on on and you have the hi-beams on, in that moment (2-3 seconds) your HID will be pulling 12 AMP (6 from the low + 6 from the hi), that is a little more than the 10 amp fuse can take. In normal use: you turn the lights on and normaly you have the low beam (only 6 amp in the begining, 3 amp after 3 seconds). Then you turn on the hi beam (6 amp first, then 3 amp.) Let's do the math: 3 Amp from the low + 6 Amp for the starting hi beam = 9 AMP, you are below 10 Amp fuse. Recommendation: if you are not changing the fuse, try not to turn on your 4 headlights with HID at the same time (first lows, then the 4). Or get a 15 Amp fuse. You decide. Other important notes: 1.-HID work at lower temperature than normal halogen (your headlights won't melt). 2.- With HID (normal instalation, no 4HI conversion kit), you save a couple amp, that can help for a little more power for an amplifier (if you are into sound systems). 3.- 55 watts HID give you 10% more light than 35 watts HID, but the life of the bulb is sacrifice by 40%. 4.- 35 watts HID give 3 times more light than 55 watt halogen, that's like if you had a 165 watt halogen (that would melt your headlight in about 15 minutes). 5.- HID are supposed to work betweeen 2500-3000 hours. That is one year of use, using it 7 hours daily. Or (as average people), 2 hours daily for 3 1/2 years. To tell you the truth, the longest HID I've had (working 24 hours a day), gave me 2200 hours. Anyhow, that is a lot. If any questions or suggestions, feel free to write.