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Hey all,

 

I've been putting this off for sometime now, but if i want to continue with my truck i need to start selling this stuff. I'd like to sell it all as a package since these items work so well together and i know the push rod size will work, so for now i don't want to split it up.

 

This is the combo i used to run 12.82, which was the first stock cubed N/A sss in the 12's. With a rich tune on the dyno it made 425 to the rear wheels through the truck intake, i think 435 was doable with a little less fuel. With my victor intake i made 465 to the rear wheels. Like i said it ran a best of 12.82 but was almost always in the 12.9x with my truck.

 

I'll be complete as i can with the description going into every aspect i can think of:

 

Heads

 

The heads are TEA, total engine airflow, stage 2.5 317s. They have been decked to 69cc from the 71 cc, i think that is about .020 off the head. They have comp cams double springs, competition hand porting, 2.05 Ferrea intake valves, and 1.60 exhaust valves, TI retainers and locks. They also have the Judson port design, which was the best flowing port design at that time.

Flow numbers are:

 

I E

.1 68 51.7

.2 140.4 118

.3 208.7 170

.4 267.1 215.2

.5 302.6 260.6

.55 318.8 271.5

.6 328.7 279

 

these heads flow almost as much as my trick flows do on intake and beat my TFS heads in the upper lifts on exhaust. With a .041 head gasket i think i was between 10.6 and 10.8.

 

These heads were originally bought by an old SSS member here named Bigtex i don't think he put any miles on them, i then got them for my build and have since put around 20,000 on them. I had no problems with them what so ever, but it wouldn't hurt to have the springs checked and the guides checked. These heads are right off my motor so they will need to be cleaned. By cleaning i mean clean the deck and rub a flat stone over it. They are oily so if you want, degrease them.

A copy of the flow sheet will be sent to the buyer

these are just the heads no rockers, you can reuse you old ones or buy new, make sure to use sealant on the intake rocker arm bolt.

 

http://www.totalengineairflow.com/products/gmhead/gmls6/

 

Cam

 

The cam was picked out for me by revolution raceworks to fit my goal of running 12's NA on stock cubes. It is a 224 228 .610 .588 on a 113+4. It was ground by comp cams but was speced out by Fast Times Motor Works. The cam has no problems and was running great when pulled. About 20,000 miles on it as well.

 

The cam is great on street and was pretty easy for Zippy to tune even through the mail. For BEST track results it should see 3400-3500 stall, i had a 3000 stall and it ran good but you could feel the power set in at 3400-3500 so i upgraded. Yes a lower converter will work, but if your going for all out ETs thats would i would use on this cam.

 

Lifters

 

The lifters are brand new never opened cts-vr gm racing lifters. I would put these slightly higher up then ls7 lifters as they are designed for sustained higher rpm.

 

http://sdparts.com/details/gm-performance-parts/88958689

 

Push rods

 

Comp cams chromemoly 5/16, 7.350 long. These push rods have about the same 20,000 miles on them. Using a .041 head gasket they should be around .060 preload, using the gm head gasket you should be a little better around .050 preload. Although these should work with all these parts i urge you to check yourself when assembling for correct push rod preload.

 

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-7950-16/

 

you can have the old head gaskets if you want them......i wouldn't reuse em but its about $145 new

 

here is an idle clip with mid length headers

http://s62.photobucket.com/albums/h103/shadowsniper3006/silverado%20ss%20bassani%20headers/?action=view&current=midheadersnocats.mp4

 

here is an idle clip with long tube headers

 

 

Like i said everything was in working order when i pulled it. Now its just oily.

Here is what i paid for everything:

Heads $1350 is what i paid they are going for around 1600 on their website using your cores

cam $388

lifters $246

push rods $135

Thats $2119 total for what i paid

 

I'm thinking

heads 1100

cam 280

lifters 230 brand new

push rods 90

 

$1700 for everything, +shipping as i have no idea how much this will be. I'll get a quote from ups and you'll pay that amount no more. The head gaskets are yours IF you ask for them.

 

I also have a spare PCM that i could include for $75 if you need one to be sent to your tuner so its ready when you do this. I would use zippy since he knows this set up inside and out and has even been in the truck through all of its stage's of building and ETs. You know what $25 for the pcm if you pay zippy for the tune and i'll ship it to him for free with your address as return. He helped me through this whole thing and it would be nice to keep this set up under his watchful tuning.

 

Ask away with any questions. Yes i know guys will ask for pics and i don't have any yet, but the cam looks like a cam, the heads look like heads, and the same with the lifters and push rods :wink2:

 

add injectors(42 marine will work), head bolts(gm bolts are all i used), head gaskets(gm or cometic) and this should be all you need to get running again.

Edited by shadowsniper3006 (see edit history)
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oh my god this setup would make a perfect first mod for my truck!!! now where did i put that extra 1700 bucks? when i get the money if your still trying to sell this stuff ill get it but dont hold it for me!!! overtime here i come!!!

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just two questions.... why are you taking it out? and anyone around florida that cam help me put it in if i buy it? :) let me ask around man but just so you know im really interested, i need some help putting it all together though so i still gotta do some browsing around to see who i can find and if i can do it now!!! ill get back to you!!!

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http://www.silveradoss.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=64285&st=0&p=727648&hl=trick%20flow&fromsearch=1entry727648

 

the first couple of sentances in that post explaines why i moved on, but to some it up i wanted more power. The parts are already off and in my rec room for save keeping.

 

 

when i get off work i post some link to other parts you may or may not want to use, just for anyones info. And other info that would be helpfull during this swap.

Edited by shadowsniper3006 (see edit history)
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Usefull info for a buyer or general info for a swap like this:

 

Head bolt options:

 

For 03 SS only(03 uses a diff head bolt kit then all others)

part number 12498545 2 required http://sdparts.com/details/gm-performance-parts/12498545

 

for 04 ss and up

part number 17800568 2 required http://sdparts.com/details/gm-performance-parts/17800568

 

you can use ARP but it might not be worth the extra cost depending on your set up

 

Head gaskets

 

GM MLS head gaskets are .051 thick 2 required

part number 12589227 http://www.summitracing.com/parts/NAL-12589227/

 

this is .040 thick 2 required

http://www.byunspeed.com/product_info.php?products_id=6361

 

this is .045 thick 2 required

http://www.byunspeed.com/product_info.php?products_id=6397

 

Timing chain

 

This is just one of many options

part number 12586482 http://www.texas-speed.com/shop/item.asp?itemid=620&catid=53

 

gasket kit

 

i think this is the right one http://sdparts.com/details/scoggin-dickey-parts-center/kitsd51902

should have valve cover gaskets, water pump gaskets, front cover gasket, front cover seal and new crank bolt(this must be replaced)

 

LS7 crank bolt

This makes it much easier to put the balancer on, this is for ease of assembly only

http://sdparts.com/details/gm-factory-replacement-parts/11570163

 

Lube

yes...... i said lube

for the cam, lifter, push rods, and any other moving parts that will be oil starved on start up. One of many options

http://sdparts.com/details/redline-oil/redlube-16

 

timing cover

because its cool

http://www.jegs.com/i/Edelbrock/350/4254/10002/-1?parentProductId=1016336

 

rocker arm option

one of many options

http://sdparts.com/details/yella-terra/yt6645

 

torque angle gauge

this is needed for torqueing the cylinder head bolts http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00994203000P

 

Torque

Cylinder head bolt tightening procedure....

 

1-Tighten the M11 cylinder head bolts (1-10) a first pass in sequence to 30 Nm (22 ft. lbs.) .

2-Tighten the M11 cylinder head bolts (1-10) a second pass in sequence to 90°.

3-Tighten the M11 cylinder head bolts (1-10) a final pass to 70° .

4-Tighten the M8 cylinder head bolts (11-15) to 30 Nm (22 ft. lbs.) . Begin with the center bolt (11) and alternating side-to-side, work outward tightening all of the bolts.

 

see this thread for torque order on the heads

http://www.silveradoss.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=47795&st=0&p=554755&hl="head%20bolt"&fromsearch=1entry554755

 

 

 

hope this helps anyone

Edited by shadowsniper3006 (see edit history)
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