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J_kuhn82

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Just got the SS running after throwing a rod back in March. Sold the KenneBell to a member on here. Dropped in a forged 370 w/ L92 Heads and L76 Intake. I had a mail order tune done from the company I bought to H/C/I from. Can some of this be because of the tune?

 

Here are the issues: The fuel gauge isn't working, the heater will not switch from defrost to the vents, and the a/c compressor isn't kicking on.

 

Seperate issue: the oil pressure is dropping from 40 to 0 after about 5 miles of driving. We are going to check this with our own gauge tomorrow. The pickup tube o-ring was triple checked when installed, we also installed a new oil pump and oil sending unit. Any suggestions?

 

We are also going to run the codes tomorrow. Thanks for the help. Its good to be back!

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Just got the SS running after throwing a rod back in March. Sold the KenneBell to a member on here. Dropped in a forged 370 w/ L92 Heads and L76 Intake. I had a mail order tune done from the company I bought to H/C/I from. Can some of this be because of the tune?

 

Here are the issues: The fuel gauge isn't working, the heater will not switch from defrost to the vents, and the a/c compressor isn't kicking on.

 

Seperate issue: the oil pressure is dropping from 40 to 0 after about 5 miles of driving. We are going to check this with our own gauge tomorrow. The pickup tube o-ring was triple checked when installed, we also installed a new oil pump and oil sending unit. Any suggestions?

 

We are also going to run the codes tomorrow. Thanks for the help. Its good to be back!

 

congrats on gettin the build done hope u get these issues worked outpepsicheer.gif

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Just got the SS running after throwing a rod back in March. Sold the KenneBell to a member on here. Dropped in a forged 370 w/ L92 Heads and L76 Intake. I had a mail order tune done from the company I bought to H/C/I from. Can some of this be because of the tune?

 

Here are the issues: The fuel gauge isn't working, the heater will not switch from defrost to the vents, and the a/c compressor isn't kicking on.

 

Seperate issue: the oil pressure is dropping from 40 to 0 after about 5 miles of driving. We are going to check this with our own gauge tomorrow. The pickup tube o-ring was triple checked when installed, we also installed a new oil pump and oil sending unit. Any suggestions?

 

We are also going to run the codes tomorrow. Thanks for the help. Its good to be back!

 

 

i had a simillar issue with ac and it turned out to be the ground cable that goes out of engine fuse box down and gets attatched to the engine. you can see it if you go under the drivers side . check it, it took me more than a week and more than 200 bucks to end up finding this my self.

Edited by eddie-ss (see edit history)
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i had a simillar issue with ac and it turned out to be the ground cable that goes out of engine fuse box down and gets attatched to the engine. you can see it if you go under the drivers side . check it, it took me more than a week and more than 200 bucks to end up finding this my self.

 

 

Sweet. I will start there. Thanks!

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I would check your grounds, fuses, and relays for the fuel gauge, a/c, and control probs.

On the oil pressure issue it sounds like either the wrong 0-ring was used (red one for the trucks) or it was pinched (easy to miss when checked). What kind of oil pump did you use?

If you have someone with tuning software you can have them check and make sure that the A/C is enabled and the tuner didn't accidently disable it.

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I would check your grounds, fuses, and relays for the fuel gauge, a/c, and control probs.

On the oil pressure issue it sounds like either the wrong 0-ring was used (red one for the trucks) or it was pinched (easy to miss when checked). What kind of oil pump did you use?

If you have someone with tuning software you can have them check and make sure that the A/C is enabled and the tuner didn't accidently disable it.

 

 

He said they put the same color o-ring that was on the old pickup up tube. He is going to ask the other guy that was there but he thought it was green. We bought the LS1/LS6 oil pump. I'm hoping it's just a missed ground somewhere. My brother is driving it today and he said when you put it in drive it idles down to 500rpm and dies. But once it's going no problems except oil pressure starts dropping. He's going to check the oil pressure manually tonight.

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We checked the oil pressure with our gauge today and its reading 20psi. Truck is also dying when put into reverse? Im stumped now. We are thinking about swapping the oil pump out again. Oil is pumping to the heads but its not holding pressure. If the cam bearings are bad, what would those symptoms be?

 

Checked the codes. Its throwing an evap. code because we capped it and they didn't bypass it in the tune. Also throwing a misfire code.

 

Ive got my head in my hands. Don't know what to do. ANY help would be appreciated. Thanks guys

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Sounds like you have both tunning and mechanical issues. the mechanical has to be fixed before the tunning, otherwise tunning can mask any serious problems that you are going trough. The stalling is definatly fixable trough tunning, but the other issues need to be fixed first before any serious damage happens to the motor. Tunning will not correct for oil problems.

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There are two o-rings that can be used for the trucks. With the pump you prob got a blue and a green one. The thicker one of the two (blue I believe) has worked for some people, but some times they don't fit right. Here is a pic of the two o-rings side by side.

 

Oring001.jpg

 

The blue one is thinner than the red one. I had to change from a blue to red one after my cam install and oil pump upgrade. Here are the part numbers: Left 12563963 RIGHT 12584922

I am certain the o-ring is the problem

Is the new pump a stock LS6 pump, or a high volume or high pressure pump? If it's a Lingenfelter LS6 pump you use their thickest o-ring which I believe is the green one since they have their own o-rings from a unknown supplier.

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  • 4 weeks later...

There are two o-rings that can be used for the trucks. With the pump you prob got a blue and a green one. The thicker one of the two (blue I believe) has worked for some people, but some times they don't fit right. Here is a pic of the two o-rings side by side.

 

Oring001.jpg

 

The blue one is thinner than the red one. I had to change from a blue to red one after my cam install and oil pump upgrade. Here are the part numbers: Left 12563963 RIGHT 12584922

I am certain the o-ring is the problem

Is the new pump a stock LS6 pump, or a high volume or high pressure pump? If it's a Lingenfelter LS6 pump you use their thickest o-ring which I believe is the green one since they have their own o-rings from a unknown supplier.

 

 

 

Update: spun a bearing. All bearings were in the gold. Scarred crank and 2 teeth missing off the reluctor wheel. The shop said they couldn't tell why it wasn't holding oil pressure but they think the engine was built too tight. Anyway, the motor is in good hands from what I've heard of some of their previous customers.

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