jtmarine02 Posted May 1, 2011 Report Share Posted May 1, 2011 (edited) I went nearly the entire swap without having an issue and when it came to finally do the last thing (Fog Light siwtch) there was an issue. I recently installed OEM fog lights on my 04 SSS and the OEM switch. After installing the LED's in the switch, I realized 2 of the 3 LED's didnt work. I then brought out my Fluke multimeter to troubleshoot and verify that I soldered them on right by checking for proper voltage. Upon doing that, on the last LED, the black lead to my meter slipped and touched the red lead, shorting the circuit momentarily... what luck huh.?! Well after that my lights in my steering wheel, dash, digital AC controls, dimmer switch, and air bag switch stopped working. The buttons still work right but the lights do not. My door switches and seat heater LED's still work. I've tried the 2 Amp fuse under the steering wheel but that wasnt it. I've tried some fuses but all turned out fine. Then after nearly giving up for the night, I turn my truck on and the lights come on! Well they are dimm as all hell, even with the dimmer switch all the way up. If I remove the fog light switch they all stop working again...? Any ideas???? Edited May 1, 2011 by jtmarine02 (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paulguy Posted May 1, 2011 Report Share Posted May 1, 2011 I went nearly the entire swap without having an issue and when it came to finally do the last thing (Fog Light siwtch) there was an issue. I recently installed OEM fog lights on my 04 SSS and the OEM switch. After installing the LED's in the switch, I realized 2 of the 3 LED's didnt work. I then brought out my Fluke multimeter to troubleshoot and verify that I soldered them on right by checking for proper voltage. Upon doing that, on the last LED, the black lead to my meter slipped and touched the red lead, shorting the circuit momentarily... what luck huh.?! Well after that my lights in my steering wheel, dash, digital AC controls, dimmer switch, and air bag switch stopped working. The buttons still work right but the lights do not. My door switches and seat heater LED's still work. I've tried the 2 Amp fuse under the steering wheel but that wasnt it. I've tried some fuses but all turned out fine. Then after nearly giving up for the night, I turn my truck on and the lights come on! Well they are dimm as all hell, even with the dimmer switch all the way up. If I remove the fog light switch they all stop working again...? Any ideas???? My guess would be a bad light switch, do you have a meter to test or an extra switch to test with? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jtmarine02 Posted May 1, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 1, 2011 (edited) Yeah, I have the Stock one that doesn't include the fog switch and it is still does the same. Also, what trips me out is the fact that with a switch in the circuit it works barely, but without a switch no lights period... That wasn't the case before this incident. Thanks for your input man. I appreciate any of it, I've got tunnel vision from thinking on the matter for a while. Edited May 1, 2011 by jtmarine02 (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paulguy Posted May 1, 2011 Report Share Posted May 1, 2011 Yeah, I have the Stock one that doesn't include the fog switch and it is still does the same. Also, what trips me out is the fact that with a switch in the circuit it works barely, but without a switch no lights period... That wasn't the case before this incident. Thanks for your input man. I appreciate any of it, I've got tunnel vision from thinking on the matter for a while. So you have a different headlight switch? Or are you talking about the foglight switch? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jtmarine02 Posted May 2, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 2, 2011 Yes the Cargo lamp/ fog lamp switch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paulguy Posted May 2, 2011 Report Share Posted May 2, 2011 I'm talking about your headlight switch, you need to test it or try a different one to make sure you did short out the dimmer circuit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jtmarine02 Posted May 2, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 2, 2011 ah, ok got you. Will try later this week, I have finals Mon & Tuesday but after that I'm FREEEE... till next semester. I'm talking about your headlight switch, you need to test it or try a different one to make sure you did short out the dimmer circuit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
04CHASE Posted May 2, 2011 Report Share Posted May 2, 2011 sounds like something may have fused itself together in that switch to me . i have an extra fog light switch that has an aux switch that goes to nothing and has a pig tail , it was done very nicely and is a clean setup if you want it send me a few bucks and its yours to try . i figure 20 bucks would be fair with shipping and paypal fees , i starting buying extras as i had thoughts my interior wouldnt get back to me so i bought some crap . pm me or paypal me [email protected] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jtmarine02 Posted May 2, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 2, 2011 (edited) Chase, I'd be willing to buy that but let me further troubleshoot it a bit more indepth. Ive isolated that switch and the lights still dont work with that switch removed from the circuit. However, once re installed they work, but faintly. I have the stock switch that only has the cargo lamp switch and when I use that It does the same thing... Now to find the electrical schematic, any Ideas where I can locate that? I'm going to search the web but if anyone knows, let me know. Edited May 2, 2011 by jtmarine02 (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paulguy Posted May 2, 2011 Report Share Posted May 2, 2011 Sounds like an open ground because you have no lights with the fog switch unplugged, and then it's feeding back through ground once plugged in. Do you have a meter to test the wires with? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jtmarine02 Posted May 4, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 4, 2011 Yeah I have 2 Fluke meters that I'm quite proficient with; the problem is that I don't have schematics to look for where the circuit begins and ends. Do you happen to know where I can possibly start, or if the Chilton auto repair guides might have an electrical diagram? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paulguy Posted May 4, 2011 Report Share Posted May 4, 2011 I can pull my switch and test the wires, give me a few Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jtmarine02 Posted May 4, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 4, 2011 Thanks man! I can pull my switch and test the wires, give me a few Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paulguy Posted May 4, 2011 Report Share Posted May 4, 2011 Thanks man! No worries. K, so for interior lights, two wires seem to handle the lights, The brown/white is a positive interior light wire, should go from 0-12volts with the dimmer And the orange/black is a negative dimmer wire that goes from open to ground with the dimmer all the way up. Course I think the bcm controls the lights after the switch, but testing that should be first you'd think...right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jtmarine02 Posted May 4, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 4, 2011 Yeah I'll start there at the dimmer switch. I've PM'd another member who has the output diagram necessary to test the BCM. Hopefully he helps me out and it's something before that. No worries. K, so for interior lights, two wires seem to handle the lights, The brown/white is a positive interior light wire, should go from 0-12volts with the dimmer And the orange/black is a negative dimmer wire that goes from open to ground with the dimmer all the way up. Course I think the bcm controls the lights after the switch, but testing that should be first you'd think...right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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