shadowsniper3006 Posted July 22, 2011 Report Share Posted July 22, 2011 Joe, one thing i would just check out is your VE at idle. The 400 rpm area is higher then the 800 rpm in some areas and should not be. There also appears to be a large step in the numbers going from 800 to 1200 to 1600. When your at idle and at op temp use the live tables to command rpm at 1200 and 800 rpm and set your ve to be right on your wideband. Then when 800 is right i command 600 rpm and any difference in wideband gets adjusted in the 400 rpm colume. Your idle is pretty low, maybe idle higher and see if things smooth out At least at 200 ECT i'm showing your base air to be a little off. Can you do a log from a cold start to warm in Park and another from cold to OP temp while your in gear and not moving at all? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
detjoe Posted July 22, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 22, 2011 i did a cold start in Gear last night. will post the log but only got values from 111 degrees to 196 I don't get it my truck will only warm up to like high 180's, and I don't see the fan kick on?? on the controls it would turn green if its commanded on?? or do I need to click it to red so it will not come on? I am going to throw that in the Baseairflow and she if I can tell if its a change. when you do the lower RPMS at you stopped/at idle or are you getting that error while driving?? sounds like you do this sitting lite the idle logging. I do have the config with idle adapt(STIT). I found a spread sheet on HPT with the value for the scalar....unfortunately its not what you posted I really like these statements about hard set points....a lot of tuning is knowing what these need to be set at, not guessing. and I know when I am guessing if the scanner gives me the valuers I am not guessing. will try to get that log up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
detjoe Posted July 22, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 22, 2011 here is the from cold in gear and the config from that I put it into the tune and extrapolated the values that were colder and smotthed the hotter values. baseairnewsclagear.hpl Idle-Airflow.cfg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shadowsniper3006 Posted July 23, 2011 Report Share Posted July 23, 2011 here is the from cold in gear and the config from that I put it into the tune and extrapolated the values that were colder and smotthed the hotter values. Did you already adjust this tune, the short term trims are a mile off when warming up. What injectors are you running? 42 marine? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
detjoe Posted July 23, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 23, 2011 my trims are off, if you look in the log those histos are empty. Yes, 42 marines, I know, I need better values for these....frustrating, but I might just have to get 60's and some pump and play e85/FI with what I did yesterday logging the cold start P and Gear, and putting that in the Baseair flow with the new scalar, the truck was running a lot better, I think it only stalled once, I was happy with it. I will need to turn the trims back on and tune from there, but am lost. kind of happy that I feel like I am making progress with it in SD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
detjoe Posted July 27, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 27, 2011 If I wanted to get a time what tuning suggestions do you use at the track? I am happy with my VE table, so I am guessing my fuel is in line and my PE value got me the AFR that was commanded. So What type of tunes do you throw in at the track? what type of changes? Is there any safety parts of my tune that are deactivated for tuning?? should I lower my PE to less %TPS? Do I need to mess with my knock settings? I was looking thru stuff yesterday and was wondering if my idle logs are worng b/c I dont have the idle adapts all set to zero... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
detjoe Posted August 2, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 2, 2011 should my idle timing and my high octane table match? I dont think they do... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shadowsniper3006 Posted August 3, 2011 Report Share Posted August 3, 2011 I was told they do not have to. I also read, why not make them match. If your in SD tuning now, you mean low octane table. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Krambo Posted August 3, 2011 Report Share Posted August 3, 2011 should my idle timing and my high octane table match? I dont think they do... I match all timing tables for the idle cells. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
detjoe Posted August 5, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 5, 2011 i just matched all the timing tables and that helped, alot. I think the rest can be fixxed with the over/under speed settings. its funny how some times I hate the tuning and then some times i am like this is GREAT! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
detjoe Posted August 15, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 15, 2011 here is a log with a WOT. about 1000 frames in. I am only commanding 27 at WOT. no knock and my PE is dead on for what its calling for its getting Brad, Renaldo, Kevin... could you look this over one time as I am going to start throwing some more timing in the WOT sections. I am posting my latest tune with 2' added to the arears where I logged in the run. I am going to try to get a few more logs this week and keep adding timing... the config is already posted another thing, how do I add air or what ever for helping my AC turning on, when I turn it on, it creates surging. more so at idle, but I can feel it when I am coasting. timing1.hpt pizza2wot.hpl Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chpspecial Posted August 15, 2011 Report Share Posted August 15, 2011 here is a log with a WOT. about 1000 frames in. I am only commanding 27 at WOT. no knock and my PE is dead on for what its calling for its getting Brad, Renaldo, Kevin... could you look this over one time as I am going to start throwing some more timing in the WOT sections. I am posting my latest tune with 2' added to the arears where I logged in the run. I am going to try to get a few more logs this week and keep adding timing... the config is already posted another thing, how do I add air or what ever for helping my AC turning on, when I turn it on, it creates surging. more so at idle, but I can feel it when I am coasting. HMMM, I can't open the files, I don't have a current version of HPT but here is my take on WOT timing. First off, you are going to need a way of monitoring what added timing is doing in your set up. Here is where a dyno come into play as the butt-o-meter is not sensitive enough to see if your added timing is helping or not. You can very well hit your point of diminishing returns and not even be aware of it. Also do not rely on your knock sensors, Knock sensors are there to prevent Knock, not to tell one when they are hitting max power. One tool that I have that helps me with WOT timing with out a dyno is a custom PID. basically what you want to do is create a PID that logs your rate of ACCELARATION, if your rate of acceleration goes up, timing is working, if it stays the same then you have reached your optimum timing. IF it goes down, then timing is not helping. Basically its a way of comparing different setups, like on a dyno with out the dyno. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shadowsniper3006 Posted August 16, 2011 Report Share Posted August 16, 2011 (edited) HMMM, I can't open the files, I don't have a current version of HPT but here is my take on WOT timing. First off, you are going to need a way of monitoring what added timing is doing in your set up. Here is where a dyno come into play as the butt-o-meter is not sensitive enough to see if your added timing is helping or not. You can very well hit your point of diminishing returns and not even be aware of it. Also do not rely on your knock sensors, Knock sensors are there to prevent Knock, not to tell one when they are hitting max power. One tool that I have that helps me with WOT timing with out a dyno is a custom PID. basically what you want to do is create a PID that logs your rate of ACCELARATION, if your rate of acceleration goes up, timing is working, if it stays the same then you have reached your optimum timing. IF it goes down, then timing is not helping. Basically its a way of comparing different setups, like on a dyno with out the dyno. Thats a cool idea, what do you use for the pid, what vs what? Joe I'm the least knowledgeable of them all, but i don't understand the dip you have in the curve. From what i understand, to maintain the correct combustion point in the cylinder you have to increase the timing advance as you increase rpm. As the piston comes up faster you need to start the spark event faster untill you reach no gain or KR. Maybe the guys can set me straight if im wrong. I would even out the dip you have in the WOT area and end around 30 degrees in the rpm close to your shift points. I'm only guessing your going to top out at 30 degrees, maybe the guys will give their take. here is the tune i ran 12.4 on, there are some problems with this tune as its one i did not zippy so only pay attention to the low octane. My VE table also appears to be off based on a bad fuel pressure gage. It still comes out to the correct afr, but zippy called bs on the numbers i had to use to hit that afr...and then he called bs on most of it.....lol, guess we have to learn some how by the way i use 2 decimal points when i look at the timing, if you change your view to that you'll see more of the changes final dyno tune_504RWHP_street settings_no 3rd lock.hpt Edited August 16, 2011 by shadowsniper3006 (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shadowsniper3006 Posted August 16, 2011 Report Share Posted August 16, 2011 oh and Joe i signed up for the Greg banish advanced gm class. There is a class in S. IL on sept. 10th. Its a 8 hour drive for me so its going to be a little more for you, but if you had a desire to take it, it would be great to meet you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chpspecial Posted August 16, 2011 Report Share Posted August 16, 2011 Thats a cool idea, what do you use for the pid, what vs what? Joe I'm the least knowledgeable of them all, but i don't understand the dip you have in the curve. From what i understand, to maintain the correct combustion point in the cylinder you have to increase the timing advance as you increase rpm. As the piston comes up faster you need to start the spark event faster untill you reach no gain or KR. Maybe the guys can set me straight if im wrong. I would even out the dip you have in the WOT area and end around 30 degrees in the rpm close to your shift points. I'm only guessing your going to top out at 30 degrees, maybe the guys will give their take. here is the tune i ran 12.4 on, there are some problems with this tune as its one i did not zippy so only pay attention to the low octane. My VE table also appears to be off based on a bad fuel pressure gage. It still comes out to the correct afr, but zippy called bs on the numbers i had to use to hit that afr...and then he called bs on most of it.....lol, guess we have to learn some how by the way i use 2 decimal points when i look at the timing, if you change your view to that you'll see more of the changes PM'd Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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