marc_w Posted August 3, 2004 Report Share Posted August 3, 2004 How are you guys locking the motor/flywheel for pulley removal and installation? Will my 250ft/lb impact gun work without anything? I'm running it off of a smaller compressor. I want to say it's a 22 gallon - I honestly forget right now. I know it's going to need some time to recharge after every zap. I'm not overly comfortable with jamming screwdrivers, bubblegum and sticks and stuff in the flywheel teeth. I may drop the starter and/or bellhousing service port one of these nights and start work on fabbing up an actual tool. I can't seem to locate any shops around that'll supply me with one. (rent or purchase) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marc_w Posted August 3, 2004 Author Report Share Posted August 3, 2004 I'm considering using the compressor to air up a cylinder, and use that to lock the motor. Think it'll work, or would the air compress easily enough to not allow me to give the crank-nut a nice sharp tug with the breaker/cheater bars? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deezel Posted August 3, 2004 Report Share Posted August 3, 2004 For removing the stock pulley I jammed a screwdriver in the flywheel. I think mwalls54 was able to do it by jamming a bar between the spokes of the crank pulley and the block (no flywheel involved). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marc_w Posted August 3, 2004 Author Report Share Posted August 3, 2004 How does the jamming of the screwdriver work? Do you kind of stick the screwdriver in there sideways, so the blade is laying horizontal or is it more or less verticle? I haven't actually laid eyes on my flywheel yet, so I don't know what kind of clearance is down there or what I have to work with. I'm just afraid of cracking/damaging a tooth, or the aluminum tranny housing. I kind of like the simple 1/8" thick 2"x12" bar stock method, where you notch it on one side, stick up through the access hole, and let it grab a converter bolt. Still nervous about damaging the housing though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evandostert Posted August 3, 2004 Report Share Posted August 3, 2004 I would not use any air tools on a crankshaft. I just used a breaker bar and held the flywheel with a screw driver. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marc_w Posted August 4, 2004 Author Report Share Posted August 4, 2004 Really? I heard of a few people doing it. I'm more comfortabe using air tools, rather than jamming the flywheel. I'm just trying to sort this out before I hit a roadblock halfway through a the cam install this weekend. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
.justin. Posted August 4, 2004 Report Share Posted August 4, 2004 The method that I used when swapping the cam on my 95, was to loop the belt around the pulley, then twist it tight as possible. The twisted belt should offer a considerable amount of grip on that pulley, enough to loosen up the bolt. If you've got a strong grip you can do this by yourself, but more than likely having someone help is best. Learned this method at a machine shop when the machinist had to do it to get the pulley loose on my supercharger. Hasn't failed me since Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slimsoftball Posted August 4, 2004 Report Share Posted August 4, 2004 OK, I am back from the dead and can think of no better post to make an appearance. I used a 12 dollar strap wrench from Sears, put it on the crank pulley, held it tight and broke the bolt loose. Piece of cake. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BenKey Posted August 5, 2004 Report Share Posted August 5, 2004 I did the same. I think mine is wore out Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slimsoftball Posted August 5, 2004 Report Share Posted August 5, 2004 I did the same. I think mine is wore out As a matter of fact I think it was you that gave me that idea. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deezel Posted August 5, 2004 Report Share Posted August 5, 2004 How does the jamming of the screwdriver work? sorry, marc cracks me up sometimes. Anyway, for anyone still interested in the screwdriver jamming method, I removed the round metal cover on the bottom of the bell housing and put a big screwdriver up in between the converter and flywheel near the bolts. I rotated the crank by having a big breaker bar on the crank bolt hanging down at the front of the engine. This way you can work the crankshaft and the screwdriver at the same time to get it braced well against the housing. The housing is pretty sturdy, just make sure you get the scredriver wedged good and proper before bringing out the 3-foot extension bar to break the crank bolt loose. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BluHawk141 Posted August 5, 2004 Report Share Posted August 5, 2004 It may not be the most cost effective tool for a person working on their own vehicle. But what we use is from Kent Moore http://www.spxkentmoore.com which is the tool that GM calls out to use in the service manual. You remove your starter and this has teeth on it and it bolts in place of the starter and locks the flywheel/flex plate. I don't remember how much it was because we bought it several years back. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marc_w Posted August 5, 2004 Author Report Share Posted August 5, 2004 sorry, marc cracks me up sometimes. I hope you guys realize I *am* joking with comments like that. ;) Anyway, for anyone still interested in the screwdriver jamming method, I removed the round metal cover on the bottom of the bell housing and put a big screwdriver up in between the converter and flywheel near the bolts. I rotated the crank by having a big breaker bar on the crank bolt hanging down at the front of the engine. This way you can work the crankshaft and the screwdriver at the same time to get it braced well against the housing. The housing is pretty sturdy, just make sure you get the scredriver wedged good and proper before bringing out the 3-foot extension bar to break the crank bolt loose. AH, I gotcha now. The big screwdriver binds up between the center "collar" in the converter, a converter/flywheel bolt, and then the housing? I'm perfectly fine with that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marc_w Posted August 5, 2004 Author Report Share Posted August 5, 2004 You guys with the strap wrenches - did you brace the strap wrench up against like the frame or a piece of wood or anything, or did you basically break the nut loose one handed? Blue - Yeah, I've been looking into that. I actually have more time to get a tool or method that I thought I would have. I think I can fab something up with the info I've got here. Thanks everyone. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slimsoftball Posted August 5, 2004 Report Share Posted August 5, 2004 I just one handed it with a long extension on my breaker bar. One warning though, when the bolt breaks loose make sure you get the hand on the strap wrench out of the way I learned this the hard way. Had a few pretty bruised knuckles. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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