silverado_ss_04 Posted September 14, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 14, 2013 smooth painted handles Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silverado_ss_04 Posted September 16, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 16, 2013 well since the heads are going to be coming off i bought a new set of cnc lsa heads. anyone looking for ls3 heads? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AKSSS Posted September 16, 2013 Report Share Posted September 16, 2013 Did you determine the tick to be the lifters? What lifters are you throwing back into it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silverado_ss_04 Posted September 17, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 17, 2013 (edited) finally had time to work on it today.... looks like a lifter has collapsed. Edited September 17, 2013 by silverado_ss_04 (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silverado_ss_04 Posted September 17, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 17, 2013 started pulling everything apart Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silverado_ss_04 Posted September 20, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 20, 2013 got everything pulled apart, here is what the ls7 lifter looked like Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idahoBLKss Posted September 20, 2013 Report Share Posted September 20, 2013 damn! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sprayed99 Posted September 20, 2013 Report Share Posted September 20, 2013 Yup that is a failed lifter lol. FYI you need to measure for the correct pushrod when you go back in with the SLR lifters.... just to be on the safe side. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLNAWAY Posted September 20, 2013 Report Share Posted September 20, 2013 Yup that is a failed lifter lol. FYI you need to measure for the correct pushrod when you go back in with the SLR lifters.... just to be on the safe side. sorry if this is a dumb ?? But how do you go about measuring? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cramer Posted September 20, 2013 Report Share Posted September 20, 2013 Its kind of hard to explain how to check. I will see if I can find my old how to that I wrote up but never got it to the forum. Kind of time consuming but very important. Btw when I ordered the lifters from Brian I asked him if the plunger depth and location is the same on them as the LS7 lifters and he said yes. He said more times than not the stock length is correct but with milled heads or different installed valves that he has seen some take other lengths. Sent from my Motorola RAZR MAXX using Tapatalk 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cramer Posted September 20, 2013 Report Share Posted September 20, 2013 (edited) Here is my way of doing it. This is if the heads are not being removed. This is the easy way of doing it, and is pretty accurate. Sorry I don't have pics to show with this but on my next venture I will take some. Remove one or more intake rockers and pushrods by rotating the motor by hand when the cylinder is on the TDC of the firing order for what cylinders you will use to check the pushrod length. Remove the exhaust rocker and pushrod. Then rotate the engine over again till the exhaust side is on TDC and the intake rocker is removed along with the pushrod. Using an adjustable push rod length checker, with the cam at TDC where the lifter is at it's highest point.Using a adjustable length pushrod ( Comp, Crane, Trickflow etc) These have a gauged length of 6.8" and one revolution of adjustment is 0.050". The gauge is being at fully closed and already takes in account for the ball ends diameter, this is not an actual length checked with a caliper.1. Lay the adjustable push rod next to a stock pushrod and adjust the adjustable pushrod in two turns.2. Install the adjustable pushrod in the bore, and install the rocker on the head. Do not tighten.3. Rotate the motor till the cylinder you are checking is at TDC on the firing stroke meaning both the intake and exh valves would be closed.4. Snug down the rocker making sure the pushrod is in the lifter cup and the rocker cup. Do not rotate the rocker while doing this since you already moved the base setting of the pushrod in 2 full turns to begin with.5. Lift the pushrod up and down if you are able to. If you can't lift the pushrod up and down and notice no tick or play between the pushrod and rocker you are to tight. Make it shorter in this case. If you do have play you will have to make the pushrod longer.7. To adjust the length if you can reach in with your fingers you move the length of the pushrod to Zero (0) lash. This means there is no play up or down in it and that the pushrod is just touching both the lifter and the rocker.8. If you can't adjust the pushrod due to fat fingers, you will have to remove the rocker and carefully remove the checker and rotate in or out at around 1/2 turn at a time and reinstall the pushrod and rocker again.9. Once you get to zero (0) lash, remove the rocker and the pushrod being very careful not to make a movement on the length. DO NOT ROTATE THE PUSHROD!10. Put a mark on one area of the pushrod as a base point. You will use this point to count the number of turns the length is rotated.11. Tighten the pushrod all the way in till it bottoms out. Rotate the side with the mark. Count the turns it takes to get it there.Now is where you bring out the calculations:The gauged length (fully closed) was 6.800".If it took 10.5 turns to get from the zero lash length that you measured on the engine you are looking at this equation.6.800+10.5*0.050=7.325"Now you have to measure in the pre-load on the lifter. 0.070" is about right for the LS7 lifters or a stock replacement. So you now have this.7.325+0.070=7.395"The pushrod length of 7.400" would be a great fit for this. Edited September 20, 2013 by sinr98 (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sprayed99 Posted September 20, 2013 Report Share Posted September 20, 2013 (edited) Here is my way of doing it. This is if the heads are not being removed. This is the easy way of doing it, and is pretty accurate. Sorry I don't have pics to show with this but on my next venture I will take some. Remove one or more intake rockers and pushrods by rotating the motor by hand when the cylinder is on the TDC of the firing order for what cylinders you will use to check the pushrod length. Remove the exhaust rocker and pushrod. Then rotate the engine over again till the exhaust side is on TDC and the intake rocker is removed along with the pushrod. Using an adjustable push rod length checker, with the cam at TDC where the lifter is at it's highest point. Using a adjustable length pushrod ( Comp, Crane, Trickflow etc) These have a gauged length of 6.8" and one revolution of adjustment is 0.050". The gauge is being at fully closed and already takes in account for the ball ends diameter, this is not an actual length checked with a caliper. 1. Lay the adjustable push rod next to a stock pushrod and adjust the adjustable pushrod in two turns. 2. Install the adjustable pushrod in the bore, and install the rocker on the head. Do not tighten. 3. Rotate the motor till the cylinder you are checking is at TDC on the firing stroke meaning both the intake and exh valves would be closed. 4. Snug down the rocker making sure the pushrod is in the lifter cup and the rocker cup. Do not rotate the rocker while doing this since you already moved the base setting of the pushrod in 2 full turns to begin with. 5. Lift the pushrod up and down if you are able to. If you can't lift the pushrod up and down and notice no tick or play between the pushrod and rocker you are to tight. Make it shorter in this case. If you do have play you will have to make the pushrod longer. 7. To adjust the length if you can reach in with your fingers you move the length of the pushrod to Zero (0) lash. This means there is no play up or down in it and that the pushrod is just touching both the lifter and the rocker. 8. If you can't adjust the pushrod due to fat fingers, you will have to remove the rocker and carefully remove the checker and rotate in or out at around 1/2 turn at a time and reinstall the pushrod and rocker again. 9. Once you get to zero (0) lash, remove the rocker and the pushrod being very careful not to make a movement on the length. DO NOT ROTATE THE PUSHROD! 10. Put a mark on one area of the pushrod as a base point. You will use this point to count the number of turns the length is rotated. 11. Tighten the pushrod all the way in till it bottoms out. Rotate the side with the mark. Count the turns it takes to get it there. Now is where you bring out the calculations: The gauged length (fully closed) was 6.800". If it took 10.5 turns to get from the zero lash length that you measured on the engine you are looking at this equation. 6.800+10.5*0.050=7.325" Now you have to measure in the pre-load on the lifter. 0.070" is about right for the LS7 lifters or a stock replacement. So you now have this. 7.325+0.070=7.395" The pushrod length of 7.400" would be a great fit for this. This is the way I do it as well other than I use a 12" caliper to measure the pushrod to get an exact measurement. Not that it matters I'm just an OCD SOB lol. I also check 3 intake lobes and 3 exhaust lobes to verify consistency. Edited September 20, 2013 by Sprayed99 (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cramer Posted September 20, 2013 Report Share Posted September 20, 2013 That way works also but you have to do more math with adding the diameter of the ball in the equation. If I remember correct you subtract a total of .140" for each end. So a total of 0.280". If I can remember to bring home my 8" caliper I will show what I mean. Sent from my Motorola RAZR MAXX using Tapatalk 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sprayed99 Posted September 21, 2013 Report Share Posted September 21, 2013 That way works also but you have to do more math with adding the diameter of the ball in the equation. If I remember correct you subtract a total of .140" for each end. So a total of 0.280". If I can remember to bring home my 8" caliper I will show what I mean. Sent from my Motorola RAZR MAXX using Tapatalk 2 No I measure the pushrod tool and count the turns Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silverado_ss_04 Posted September 21, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 21, 2013 (edited) Yup that is a failed lifter lol. FYI you need to measure for the correct pushrod when you go back in with the SLR lifters.... just to be on the safe side. yup im going to check again. picked up a nick williams 102mm tb today. Edited September 21, 2013 by silverado_ss_04 (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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