MID12sSSS Posted August 30, 2012 Report Share Posted August 30, 2012 (edited) Finally found the ground for the ignition coils that i kept overlooking. Hooked it up, double checked everything, and started the truck. It fired right away and there was lots of ticking in the valvetrain. I figured this was normal as the engine had yet to prime, but the engine was also misfiring. So i only ran it about 10 seconds before i shut it down. This was enough to kick a PO336 (Crankshaft Position Sensor Range/Performance) code. At this point im just trying to stay calm and focused on the project without getting too pissed off. Ive got thousands of dollars and dozens of hours into this engine and it sucks that it has come down to this. Now im thinking that either somehow i installed the timing chain a tooth off, or that somehow the reluctor wheel is damaged. I even thought, maybe the oil pump isnt working, causing the lifters not to prime, and therefore causing the valvetrain tick and misfire. But that wouldnt explain the CKP code. I called Zippy and he said the same thing. I hate to bother him with personal problems, but i needed a second opinion from a very knowledgable source so i wasnt pointed in the wrong direction. He said to check the timing chain and make sure its spot-on. If not, repair as necessary. If its fine, pull the CKP sensor and peek through at the reluctor wheel, turn the motor by hand and inspect it for damage. He said that they can be bent from the machine shop or even installed backwards. I am not looking forward to pulling that motor again, but i have a feeling in my gut that its the reluctor wheel. And i hope i didnt damage any valves or pushrods during those couple seconds. It turns like a dream, but once you add spark to the mix, it runs like shit. Builds are supposed to be fun and so far this one has been a nightmare. I built this truck to be a daily driver, but if i knew itd be this big of a project, i would have made it a drag monster and got another truck as my DD. Haha. Anyway, so thats where i stand in the build process. Diagnosis... If anyone has had similar experiences or any ideas, please, dont hesitate to share. Ive been a mechanic a couple years but im far from knowing everything. Build Specs: LQ9 block Eagle Forged Crank Callies Forged H-beam Rods -2cc valve relief Daimond Pistons Ackerly & Childs steel top ring set Dual piston pin clips Clevite bearings Comp Cams Double Roller timing set TSP Ported High pressure oil pump Lingenfelter GT2-3 cam Stock 317 heads (plan on upgrading) Stock springs (need to upgrade as well) Scorpion 1.7 Roller Rockers 160* Tstat mp112 Magnuson Radix Supercharger 90mm LS7 TB and J-tube 2.75in pulley SnowPerformance Methanol Injection Kit Taylor Racing Plug Wires NGK TR6 plugs American Racing LT headers Corsa Sport Exhaust Wideband O2 sensors Autometer Multigauge/ boost gauge Corvette servos Shift kit Tuned by Zippy Edited August 30, 2012 by MID12sSSS (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AKSSS Posted August 30, 2012 Report Share Posted August 30, 2012 Can't you pull you valve cover and bring number 1 up to tdc and check you intake on #1? I am far from being a mechanic, but that should work, right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MID12sSSS Posted August 30, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 30, 2012 What do you mean check my intake? The more I think about it, I'm sure it's that damn reluctor wheel. I know the timing chain advances or retards the cam, but it's sparking at the wrong time, and I know the computer is getting incorrect information from that wheel. I'm just in awe because I didn't think machining errors were common. I'll inspect the reluctor wheel through the crankshaft position sensor hole and see if I can tell its damaged or not. I'm not sure how much I will be able to see, but its worth a shot. Then I'll either pull the front cover if it looks fine, or pull the motor if it's damaged. Maybe we can get some more input on the subject. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlueAKSSS Posted August 30, 2012 Report Share Posted August 30, 2012 Dang too bad your in Fairbanks otherwise I'd stop by and take a look at it. The ticking is probably normal as the lifters are dry, on cam and lifter swaps that I have done the lifters ticked pretty good for what seemed like 5-10 minutes and then quieted down to normal. I would check all your options such as pulling the front cover and checking out the cam and timing chain alignment, and then check the crank sensor reluctor wheel before pulling the motor. Good luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chulo Posted August 30, 2012 Report Share Posted August 30, 2012 yeah good luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Krambo Posted August 30, 2012 Report Share Posted August 30, 2012 Missfire - did you confirm a particular cylinder or random misfire during the 10 sec run? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
juriha Posted August 30, 2012 Report Share Posted August 30, 2012 Double check injector wiring? I had a misfire initially and one of my pigtails on my injectors wasnt fully connected. Do you have some kind of engine diagnostic software? I have EFI Live and it told me which cylinder was misfiring... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
canadianVRss Posted August 30, 2012 Report Share Posted August 30, 2012 Can't you pull you valve cover and bring number 1 up to tdc and check you intake on #1? I am far from being a mechanic, but that should work, right? Ahhh smart thinking. He means that you should bring the #1 piston to tdc and if the valve timing is off you'll notice a advance or retard on when the valves are opening and closing, which would indicate that the timing chain is off. But you'd have to know what a healthy engine timing looks like first, and if it's just 1 tooth off you might not be able to see it as it would probably look pretty minor. But your engine doesn't seem to think its very minor :-/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The_aSSet Posted August 30, 2012 Report Share Posted August 30, 2012 Tdc is top dead center if you don't know btw lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MID12sSSS Posted August 30, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 30, 2012 (edited) Missfire - did you confirm a particular cylinder or random misfire during the 10 sec run? It sounded like more than one cylinder was missfiring. I wasn't running Missfire PIDs when I fired it up. But the PO336 is was made me worry. I'm sure the valvetrain clatter maybe have been normal, but the backfire/missfires obviously not normal. Im almost positive I installed the timing set right, but something is definitely wrong. So I have to do my research. Double check injector wiring? I had a misfire initially and one of my pigtails on my injectors wasnt fully connected. Do you have some kind of engine diagnostic software? I have EFI Live and it told me which cylinder was misfiring... Yeah. All the wiring appears to be correct, and as much as I wish it were as simple as accidentally swapping injector plugs, I'm sure it would have kicked a cylinder misfire code, rather than a CKP code. So my thinking is that it has got to be cam or crank. The PCM relies on the signals from the CKP and the CMP sensors to detect how to set ignition timing. And when they aren't in sync, the PCM struggles to determine which one is incorrect. Therefore, a cam problem can kick a CKP code and a crank problem can kick a CMP code. So I'm sure it's either one of two things. I just hope it's not that wheel. And I'm scared to run the motor any longer to record diagnostics. Although Im curious if I can look at spark advance PIDs and be able to tell if it's advanced or retarded without tearing apart the motor. But again, this won't tell me whether it's the timing set or reluctor wheel. I think I just gotta get in there and figure it out. Edited August 30, 2012 by MID12sSSS (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MID12sSSS Posted August 30, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 30, 2012 Thanks for all the support guys. It's been a rough couple weeks. I appreciate it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AKSSS Posted September 2, 2012 Report Share Posted September 2, 2012 Any updates here? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GI.SS Posted September 2, 2012 Report Share Posted September 2, 2012 (edited) would performing a crank relearn be sufficient to know if its crank related? just thinking out loud... good luck. youll get it figured out in no time! did you shim the oil pump with that double roller? Edited September 2, 2012 by GI.SS (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MID12sSSS Posted September 3, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 3, 2012 Any updates here? This weekend I'll have time to rack it and find out what the hell is going on. There is some physical damage to the tip of the sensor. Im going to replace it and see if that changes anything. I'll inspect the reluctor wheel while I have it out. I hope its fine. I really don't wanna pull the motor, but ya gotta do what ya gotta do. would performing a crank relearn be sufficient to know if its crank related? just thinking out loud... good luck. youll get it figured out in no time! did you shim the oil pump with that double roller? Not too sure on the crank relearn thing, but yeah. The double roller came with oil pump spacers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MID12sSSS Posted September 8, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 8, 2012 (edited) Finally got a few hours to tinker on the SS. I replaced the CKP sensor and inspected the reluctor wheel while i had it out. Everything looked ok to me. Replacing the sensor didnt help out any. Still misfiring and it kicked the PO336 code again. I pulled up some service info at work for diagnosing the code, and the first couple tests are interference tests. Im not sure if this is because they would be the most common, or because its something to check before tearing apart the motor. Im still convinced i should check my timing set for correct installation. IDK... What do you guys think? Ill upload the diag info in a sec.. Edited September 8, 2012 by MID12sSSS (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.