Downeast Johnny Posted November 11, 2012 Report Share Posted November 11, 2012 Did you find your leak in any of the parts you have replaced? Have you checked the back side of the master cylinder for a leak? The master cylinder can leak into the booster can and, as you stated, there is a large vacuum line to the booster so I would have to say that it is at least possible that you are sucking fluid into the engine. I have not actually had one of these boosters apart so I don't know just how likely this scenario is but it looks like it is possible. Are the brakes more or less squishy than they were before parts replacement and bleeding? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JC03SS Posted November 11, 2012 Report Share Posted November 11, 2012 What fo you mean by squishy? Are they soft? What brands of parts did you go with? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cb2big4u Posted November 11, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 11, 2012 It looked to me Luke one of my wheel cylinders had wet brake dust all over it and that's why I replaced them. I guess since it doesn't seem right that I some how got brake fluid into the motor that it would be the master cylinder leaking into the brake booster. Going to look into that tomorrow. They do feel more squishy than before. It is able to brake hard but I have to put the peddle down quite a ways. I think I bleed them properly as I went from rear passenger to rear driver then front passenger to front driver. I was thinking maybe it has something to do with abs. I had never bleed brakes before. Only a clutch line on my old car. LOL. I guess it could possibly be the leak into the booster causing a lack in peddle feel. Sent from my ADR6425LVW using Tapatalk 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cb2big4u Posted November 11, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 11, 2012 (edited) What fo you mean by squishy? Are they soft? What brands of parts did you go with? They don't catch until the peddle is down a bit. Like it has a squish, still brakes when I hit it just very very lightly, then I get down to the point and it brakes decently still. There's almost no medium is how it feels. Idk what parts, just AutoZone special with a lifetime warranty. Edit: duralast I think Sent from my ADR6425LVW using Tapatalk 2 Edited November 11, 2012 by TampaVmax (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carl Eagle Posted November 11, 2012 Report Share Posted November 11, 2012 Sounds like the Master cylinder is bad!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cb2big4u Posted November 11, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 11, 2012 (edited) Yall were right. It is. Now I wonder if I can just replace that gasket/seal or buy a whole new one. Atleast got a reason to replace all this stuff. It really needed it. I'll post a couple pics. Sent from my ADR6425LVW using Tapatalk 2 Edited November 11, 2012 by TampaVmax (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cb2big4u Posted November 11, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 11, 2012 (edited) Other side was just as bad as this. And just replaced the wheel cylinders only because one was really rusty and the other looked like it had been leaking although it prob wasn't . 6 years of wear...always replaced just the pads and shoes. Was needed Sent from my ADR6425LVW using Tapatalk 2 Edited November 11, 2012 by TampaVmax (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carl Eagle Posted November 11, 2012 Report Share Posted November 11, 2012 I would just replace it...I dont think they are very expensive and you wont have to bother with rebuilding the old one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Downeast Johnny Posted November 11, 2012 Report Share Posted November 11, 2012 Yall were right. It is. Now I wonder if I can just replace that gasket/seal or buy a whole new one. Atleast got a reason to replace all this stuff. It really needed it. I'll post a couple pics. Sent from my ADR6425LVW using Tapatalk 2 To rebuild the master cylinder bore needs to be honed and then new parts installed. (Special tools and a bit of skill required). As long as the master cylinder is leaking you won't get a firm pedal. (You are using a good sequence in bleeding, by the way.) Carl calls it correctly; buy a new one or quality factory rebuild. Assuming that your brake lines are in good shape; Your going to have a first rate system when your done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cb2big4u Posted November 11, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 11, 2012 Awesome and I hope so. Thanks guys. I should've just listened to the first post saying check master cylinder. LOL it gave me an excuse to the wife to replace all the other shit though. I'll post tomorrow after replacing for the heck of it. Sent from my ADR6425LVW using Tapatalk 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blown 346 Posted November 11, 2012 Report Share Posted November 11, 2012 I replaced my master in my old truck and it only took me about 10 minutes.... Fixed my squishy pedal feel like you are experiencing. Make sure to fill the master with fluid, and then bleed it while the unit is installed. have a old towel handy.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Downeast Johnny Posted November 11, 2012 Report Share Posted November 11, 2012 I got one of these tools to bleed brakes, (among other things). (This is the best price I've found today on it.) http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_391590_391590?cm_mmc=Google-pla-_-Auto%20Repair-_-Brake%20Repair-_-33160&ci_sku=33160&ci_gpa=pla&ci_kw={keyword}&gclid=CNqy_p_6xrMCFQf0nAodujwAUQ I got mine at Napa parts years ago. They still list it but don't give a price. http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx?R=BK_7001762_0361137808 Just set it up to pump instead of suck and you can push fresh fluid from each wheel back to the master cyl. instead of the other way round. I wrapped the bleeder fitting at the each wheel with teflon, (plumbers), tape, and use a turckeybaster to empty the master cyl. before pushing new fluid into the system. This will be a quicker way to bleed a new master cyl. than going through the process from the master to each wheel again. (You will still want to bench bleed the master so that your installing it full of fluid). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cb2big4u Posted November 11, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 11, 2012 I just bought one of those yesterday from harborfreight. I thought it was a piece of junk. Guess I will give it one last shot before it goes back. Sent from my ADR6425LVW using Tapatalk 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cb2big4u Posted November 11, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 11, 2012 Done replacing master cylinder. Here's a pic of what the side by the booster looks like. Feels great now. Still not where I thought it would be as far as stiffness but I guess I would need to do a big brake kit of some sort for that. Yall have been a great help! Thanks again. Sent from my ADR6425LVW using Tapatalk 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Downeast Johnny Posted November 12, 2012 Report Share Posted November 12, 2012 There's your answer. Congratulations on your new brake system. Did you get the mighty-vac to work for you? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.