Downeast Johnny Posted December 29, 2012 Report Share Posted December 29, 2012 I finally wised up and searched Suspension and Brakes and found a load of info. After a fair bit of reading this post is probably all you need to read. http://www.silveradoss.com/forums/topic/60471-hydroboost-parts-list/page__hl__hydroboost Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cramer Posted December 29, 2012 Report Share Posted December 29, 2012 Reynaldo,Because your now running more lines from the power steering pump I would assume this makes the pump work a little harder. Do you think there is now more parasitic loss on the motor using this? I never did this because I'm afraid of sucking more hp out of my motor. I always joked that if I needed to stop faster at the end of track....I would just add a chute instead of adding rotating weight or lossing any power from the motor Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk 2 I haven't experienced any noticeable power loss but haven't had it on a dyno to say it does or doesn't either. I don't see how it will draw much at any power since it is only using the extra pump power when the brakes are applied. The clamping force of the brakes will help you especially on your launch since you can get your rpm's up at the line to get into the converter and powerband more without blowing through the brakes. Plus it takes some weight out of the truck. Sent from my Motorola RAZR MAXX using Tapatalk 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chpspecial Posted December 29, 2012 Report Share Posted December 29, 2012 I haven't experienced any noticeable power loss but haven't had it on a dyno to say it does or doesn't either. I don't see how it will draw much at any power since it is only using the extra pump power when the brakes are applied. The clamping force of the brakes will help you especially on your launch since you can get your rpm's up at the line to get into the converter and powerband more without blowing through the brakes. Plus it takes some weight out of the truck. Sent from my Motorola RAZR MAXX using Tapatalk 2 Second this. I did not experience any noticeable power loss, and I don't think the power steering pump does any real work until either the steering wheel is turned or brakes are applied. The routing of the power steering pump lines goes as follows. (PowerSteering)>>>(HydroBoost)>>>(Recirculating Ball)>>>(PSCooler)>>>(PS) HB and RB both have low pressure waste dumps that flow back to the pump. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shadowsniper3006 Posted December 29, 2012 Report Share Posted December 29, 2012 Thanks guys Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chpspecial Posted December 30, 2012 Report Share Posted December 30, 2012 Thanks guys Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk 2 From a friend with a 62 nova that does 9sec, and a few of his buddies with a 72 camaro, and a few El Camino's that also run high 9s low 10s depending on the set up they run, the hot ticket is hydroboost for them as well. They can finally get their cars to stop at the end of the run, with no time loss Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shawnss Posted December 31, 2012 Report Share Posted December 31, 2012 here is a how to. good info in here. http://www.performancetrucks.net/forums/gm-drivetrain-suspension-22/hydroboost-conversion-install-417445/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr.Scary Posted January 1, 2013 Report Share Posted January 1, 2013 I did this swap on my 03 SS.. here's my findings.. 1) depending on the hydroboost unit you get, you need to alter the firewall, but cutting some metal away as the booster doesnt fit in the opening.. our opening is round, and the hydroboost needs it to be egg shaped. you dont notice it once its done 2) depending on what hydroboost unit you get, the lines are DIFFERENT.. if you get one from a 2500 truck, get those lines, if you get one from a chevy express van GET THAT ONE.. trust me.. they DO NOT FIT across units 3) get the hydroboost power steering pump.. yeah its 185 bucks, but worth it so you dont have to "T" any lines, potential leaks there 4) if you get a pedal with a spring on it.. THROW THE SPRING AWAY.. it throws off the pedal just enough to cause the safety clip to pop off..you dont want your brakes to go out when driving 5) you WILL have about a half inch of play in the pedal before the brakes engage.. be aware 6) the pedal.. IS SOFTER than stock. i did NOT notice any improvement in pedal feel, nor did i find it braking any better than the stock booster. 7) if you do not run a small bit of wire from one end of the electrical connector you remove off the stock booster to the other end of the same connector (think pin 1 to pin 4), you WILL throw a code about your booster being bad.. running this wire eliminates this code. its MY OPINION that this swap, is not worth it.. not after i did mine and to ME, it feels the brakes are WEAKER and softer than stock was.. that said.. its your truck. good luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chpspecial Posted January 1, 2013 Report Share Posted January 1, 2013 I did this swap on my 03 SS.. here's my findings..1) depending on the hydroboost unit you get, you need to alter the firewall, but cutting some metal away as the booster doesnt fit in the opening.. our opening is round, and the hydroboost needs it to be egg shaped. you dont notice it once its done 2) depending on what hydroboost unit you get, the lines are DIFFERENT.. if you get one from a 2500 truck, get those lines, if you get one from a chevy express van GET THAT ONE.. trust me.. they DO NOT FIT across units 3) get the hydroboost power steering pump.. yeah its 185 bucks, but worth it so you dont have to "T" any lines, potential leaks there 4) if you get a pedal with a spring on it.. THROW THE SPRING AWAY.. it throws off the pedal just enough to cause the safety clip to pop off..you dont want your brakes to go out when driving 5) you WILL have about a half inch of play in the pedal before the brakes engage.. be aware 6) the pedal.. IS SOFTER than stock. i did NOT notice any improvement in pedal feel, nor did i find it braking any better than the stock booster. 7) if you do not run a small bit of wire from one end of the electrical connector you remove off the stock booster to the other end of the same connector (think pin 1 to pin 4), you WILL throw a code about your booster being bad.. running this wire eliminates this code. its MY OPINION that this swap, is not worth it.. not after i did mine and to ME, it feels the brakes are WEAKER and softer than stock was.. that said.. its your truck. good luck I think there is something fundamentally wrong with your set up, or you have air in the lines. This is the first time I hear of somebody not having improved braking after the hydroboost swap Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cramer Posted January 1, 2013 Report Share Posted January 1, 2013 I agree with you Rey. Either air in the system, brake lines about to blow, or glazed over rotors. It takes minimal pedal pressure to apply the brakes and the harder you press the pedal the more pressure is being applied to the brakes. It does have some what of a spongy feeling but not anywhere near the stock vac booster set up. I almost wore my steering wheel around my neck ( with a seat belt on) a few weeks ago when I slammed on my brakes at 60 to miss a deer. Sent from my Motorola RAZR MAXX using Tapatalk 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rudy91040 Posted January 2, 2013 Report Share Posted January 2, 2013 I agree with the guys above. I helped a buddy do a custom remote mount hydroboost install on a camera car. Thing was a pig and the booster they had on it was too small and was scary to drive. After the hydroboost the thing would stop way shorter. We did have some similar issues as you described Mr Scary. It ended up being air in the lines as others have mentioned before. I would bleed your system again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr.Scary Posted January 2, 2013 Report Share Posted January 2, 2013 brake lines , or PS lines? i ask that Questions because to do this swap, you dont even touch the brake lines whatsoever.. they were fine before hand. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chpspecial Posted January 3, 2013 Report Share Posted January 3, 2013 brake lines , or PS lines?i ask that Questions because to do this swap, you dont even touch the brake lines whatsoever.. they were fine before hand. Power steering. Lift the front wheels of the ground and do several lock to lock turns of the steering wheel. Check and recheck PS fluid as well Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cramer Posted January 3, 2013 Report Share Posted January 3, 2013 Another thing I have heard of as well is a air trap in the booster itself. I guess tapping it (hydroboost unit) with a dead blow on the sides while someone is applying the brakes and turning the steering wheel can get the air out...... IDK for sure but it might help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLNAWAY Posted January 8, 2013 Report Share Posted January 8, 2013 (edited) so doing some routine maintance today noticed p/s pump front seal is leaking so now time to replace and might aswell do the hydroboost p/s pump and start putting the mod together anybody got the gm p/s pump pn# that will fit my truck Edited January 8, 2013 by BLNAWAY (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StockSS Posted February 18, 2013 Report Share Posted February 18, 2013 Is there a comprehensive list of the years and trucks/vans/suv that the hydroboost came in? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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