MID12sSSS Posted April 22, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 22, 2013 Yes, I ran the same FP as Brad. Heavy duty, high quality piece but does have some weight to it. BTW, if you want mine, I have it in the garage with 3 ARP converter bolts. Absolutely nothing wrong with it, clean. Send PM if you are interested. Damn Kevin. Wish i would have know you still had yours. Would have saved me some cash and put some in your pocket. I had to pay $310 shipped. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idahoBLKss Posted April 22, 2013 Report Share Posted April 22, 2013 (edited) Exactly. He was running less torque than you and shredded his FP. I'm not saying you need one, Idaho, but its cheap insurance if you already have the trans out. A fully built trans and new converter, I'm just a flex plate away from being "built" and running future power adders without any issues. I see the flex plate as a weak point, because I've seen so many people spin the middle right out of them. You may not break yours and be totally fine. But then again, you may not. Haha you're building a HELL of a monster motor right now, but not caring about any supporting mods. Built trans? Nope. Forged internals? Nope. Seems to me, you might be able to run that 9second quarter mile once before that truck tears itself apart. But I don't think your building it to have a reliable 9second daily driver. You probably just wanna boost the piss out of it and see what happens. Haha. I won't be pushing as much power as you, but im building everything up for reliability purposes. My original reason for building my truck was a reliable street/strip 600hp daily driver. Not quite there yet, but will be eventually. I don't wanna be scared to put my foot to the floor. I don't want there to be any doubt in my mind that the truck will hold up to the abuse of WOT runs. Anyway. Lecture over. Class dismissed. i may not have a "built" trans but it is a 80e with a shift kit and imo its stronger then any built 60e. i also have a billet converter if that matters but if you think because you have a built trans or forged bottom end that your worries are over you are mistaken . my truck has been extremely reliable up to this point and i take it out a couple times a week at minimum and that wont change with the turbo build either.i hope it holds up for more then one WOT "4 the glory" pass but you never know. the second you are worry free when putting your foot to the floor in a boosted application is the second you have exited reality and have entered fairy tail land lol . Edited April 22, 2013 by idahoBLKss (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MID12sSSS Posted April 22, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 22, 2013 Hahaha yeah. You aren't lying there! I'm just taking every precaution I can. Everything breaks eventually. Yeah. I didn't know you had an 80e. You'll be fine. Keep up the good work with your build btw. It's gonna be awesome. And I'm sure it'll hold up long enough for a glory pass. Hahaha. Just don't skimp out on too many parts. I'd hate to see that flex plate come apart. It's happened too many times. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MID12sSSS Posted April 26, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 26, 2013 Little update. New PI 2800 TC and TCI flex plate arrived today. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aldofashow Posted April 26, 2013 Report Share Posted April 26, 2013 Ohhhhhh aahhhhhhhh. Can't wait to get mine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shadowsniper3006 Posted April 28, 2013 Report Share Posted April 28, 2013 When installing the converter bolts be sure the bolts don't bottom out in the tapped hole. I had one brand or maybe even stock that would have bottomed out before actually tightening. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MID12sSSS Posted April 29, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 29, 2013 When installing the converter bolts be sure the bolts don't bottom out in the tapped hole. I had one brand or maybe even stock that would have bottomed out before actually tightening. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk 2 Weird. Okay yeah. I will look out for that. What was your resolution? I was told to be very thorough in measuring the clearance between the plate and converter as well. Make sure the converter is fully seated into the pump, then line up the plate with the converter feet. Measure the clearance with a feeler gauge. Max clearance is .060-.187". Any more, a washer is needed between all 3 mounting points. And you must also mic out all 3 washers too make sure they're within .005" of each other, or else excessive vibration will cause premature pump failure and other issues. They must fit perfectly over the bolt with no slop and be strong as hell. I guess spacers are pretty common when dealing with aftermarket converters. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shadowsniper3006 Posted April 29, 2013 Report Share Posted April 29, 2013 (edited) I've never had to use spacers. I think all of mine have been right at .1875. And I bottom tapped the mounting holes and I used a shorter bolt. I just don't remember if the arp or the stock ones are the shorter set. Make sure to clean everything and use locktight Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk 2 Edited April 29, 2013 by shadowsniper3006 (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AKSSS Posted April 29, 2013 Report Share Posted April 29, 2013 And I bottom tapped the mounting holes and I used a shorter bolt. I just don't remember if the arp or the stock ones are the shorter set. The arp bolts are longer than stock. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shadowsniper3006 Posted April 29, 2013 Report Share Posted April 29, 2013 And I bottom tapped the mounting holes and I used a shorter bolt. I just don't remember if the arp or the stock ones are the shorter set. The arp bolts are longer than stock. That's probably why I remember disappointment and lots of swearing....bought them and couldn't use them Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Krambo Posted April 29, 2013 Report Share Posted April 29, 2013 Damn Kevin. Wish i would have know you still had yours. Would have saved me some cash and put some in your pocket. I had to pay $310 shipped. Damn, I would have let it go for $75! When installing the converter bolts be sure the bolts don't bottom out in the tapped hole. I had one brand or maybe even stock that would have bottomed out before actually tightening. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk 2 Exactly. I mated the converter to the FP once installed and measured the depth. The converter bolts I had used with my factory FP were too short IMHO (only got about 1-2 thread engagement). I looked up ARP and found they offered 2 different lengths. From what I recall, I used the longer ones so I can have more bite into the converter pads. I double checked the depth and the length of the converter bolts from ARP and they were perfect (didn't bottom out and had several turns before tight). BTW, I use red Loctite on the converter bolts...some do, some don't. From the pictures of your FP, I can't tell if it is painted or not. Mine was powdercoated from the factory. If you do have paint or powdercoat, I recommend lightly sanding down the areas where the converter mates to the FP and the FP mates to the engine. I have heard stories from the LS1 crowd where the paint disintegrated under the mounting areas and caused the bolts to become loose. Regardless, I sanded mine before install and when I tore her down 2 years+ later, it was as tight as the day I installed it. Good luck! You have some quality pieces there!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MID12sSSS Posted April 29, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 29, 2013 \ Damn, I would have let it go for $75! Exactly. I mated the converter to the FP once installed and measured the depth. The converter bolts I had used with my factory FP were too short IMHO (only got about 1-2 thread engagement). I looked up ARP and found they offered 2 different lengths. From what I recall, I used the longer ones so I can have more bite into the converter pads. I double checked the depth and the length of the converter bolts from ARP and they were perfect (didn't bottom out and had several turns before tight). BTW, I use red Loctite on the converter bolts...some do, some don't. From the pictures of your FP, I can't tell if it is painted or not. Mine was powdercoated from the factory. If you do have paint or powdercoat, I recommend lightly sanding down the areas where the converter mates to the FP and the FP mates to the engine. I have heard stories from the LS1 crowd where the paint disintegrated under the mounting areas and caused the bolts to become loose. Regardless, I sanded mine before install and when I tore her down 2 years+ later, it was as tight as the day I installed it. Good luck! You have some quality pieces there!!! Thanks for all the advice. I will sand the contact spots as well as use loctite.The converter came with ARP hardware so ill double check to make sure its not too long. It should be pretty straight forward. Haha frickin sucks I could have had your FP for $75.. Damn.. Oh well.. I wish i had the money back before your truck was parted out. I would have bought it up in a heartbeat. Its been one of the best SS's this site has ever seen. Glad to see you're still around. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aldofashow Posted April 29, 2013 Report Share Posted April 29, 2013 What kind of flex plate do ya have there Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MID12sSSS Posted April 30, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 30, 2013 TCI 399753 Do some searching. You can find them for $240 or so. I ordered directly from TCI and had to pay shipping. So $310 was my price. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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